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Old 02-19-2018, 06:39 PM
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Captain_Slow
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Default Intake and Cam Cover Refresh questions

I thought I'd not start a thread and just post occasional pics in the What Did You Do Today thread...but I hit a snag and I expect to hit some more.

First, some photos and a way to remove one of the intake nuts that is faster and easier than Dwayne used.



Instead of removing the allen bolt on the intake side cover to get a socket on the intake nut below - just use a 13mm gear wrench.



The factory intake paint under the cap washers decided it would rather remain with the rubber seals instead of the intake. Paint was removed under all of them, and on one it continued over the shoulder of the intake rail.



All intake ports are oily and a more grimy than I expected. Note more oil (now mixed with a bit of coolant from removing the FPR and FPD bolts) in the valley.



Hard to take a good photo of the mess in the valley.



The TPS connection stopped me for the day. Dwayne's method of grabbing the connector top and bottom and wiggling up and down while pulling rearward seamed simple enough. Didn't work. Seems the metal clip needs to be lifted to allow release. Didn't want to force it.



A couple of small pieces of wood to lift the intake for the final few disconnections that will release the intake.



Imagining this sticking through the hood. If not for fear of breaking the TPS connection I would have the intake on a bench. Best to wait for a tip.

Questions:
1. Has anyone found a way to properly lift the ends of the clip on the TPS connector so the locking tab can slip under it without damage to the locking tabs?

2. Looks like a lot of oiliness...Aside from the leaking oil filler neck and probably some coming in through the breather hose, is there anything else that could be contributing?

3. Should I just bite the bullet and have the intake and cam covers stripped and powder coated -- or is there a good touch up primer/paint (heat resistant and closely matching) that will hold up well while being hidden under the seals? I would like to keep this to just a component upgrade....but if ever there was a time to DIWYIT -- this is it!
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Old 02-19-2018, 09:40 PM
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dr bob
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My thought:

Nut driver through the passenger side will free the hose clamp that holds throttle body, letting you free the rest of the intake and get it off and out of the way. PLUG EVERY PORT with towels and some good tape. After that It's OK to work on small stuff like the TPS where there's risk of pieces falling into the intake. Having the TB separate means you get a good look at the cable routing and connnections.
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Old 02-19-2018, 11:26 PM
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Kevin in Atlanta
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Originally Posted by Captain_Slow View Post
Questions:
1. Has anyone found a way to properly lift the ends of the clip on the TPS connector so the locking tab can slip under it without damage to the locking tabs?
I've always rocked the connector until it slips off. Same for the ISV connector.
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Old 02-20-2018, 05:20 AM
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Marti
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Originally Posted by Kevin in Atlanta View Post
I've always rocked the connector until it slips off. Same for the ISV connector.
+ 1
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Old 02-20-2018, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Marti View Post
+ 1
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Old 02-20-2018, 11:15 AM
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FredR
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I always found getting the TPS connector off was easy for whatever reason but the real bear was the ISV connector. The only way I could get that thing undone without a special tool was to get to where you are now and then undo the four lower throttle body bolts and then remove the main part of the body. Some years ago I removed the spring clip for a trial period, found I had no issues and simply left it that way. I was going to make an extension cable so that one could get at the connector outboard of the manifold but so far have found it not needed now. Whether or not this would work on other examples remains to be seen. Getting the proper tool is of course the correct solution.
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Old 02-20-2018, 11:28 AM
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FWIW with a good flashlight shining in from the rear of the intake,
you can look down through the hole in the center rear of the manifold and see the ISV connector ,
use a pair of the hose end long reach needle nose pliers to grab the tail of the connector a few wiggles it comes right off.
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Old 02-20-2018, 11:08 PM
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OK. I felt like I might break the connector, but the chorus of wiggle and pull rests this concern.
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Old 02-21-2018, 07:22 AM
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Adk46
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Jon - this is an early hurdle to the job, the rest will be easy. I recall getting a set of "mechanic's forceps" just for dealing with these things. Pictured are GearWrench, but I found a Crescent set at Sears. The double articulation is important.

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Old 02-21-2018, 11:57 PM
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Thanks Curt...I noticed these in your thread. The double articulation appeared to have much greater clearance reaching into tight spaces. Hope to have the intake off this weekend. I appreciate all the input others have posted. My car always has run well, if not as powerfully as it should. At this stage I can see just how badly my car needed this.
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Old 02-22-2018, 12:03 AM
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Michael Benno
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Where did you get those caps for the injectors?

Im looking for a source for plugging and capping various things
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Old 02-22-2018, 10:42 AM
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Try searching "vacuum hose caps". Intended for plugging vac lines for various reasons, they are excellent for capping or plugging just about anything.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Vacu...hrome&ie=UTF-8
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Old 02-22-2018, 12:55 PM
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I have a selection of cast-off dental tools. They’re handy for lifting and holding the spring steel retainers for the connectors. At your next cleaning ask your dentist if he/she has a bunch old tools lying around doing nothing.

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Old 02-22-2018, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Michael Benno View Post
Where did you get those caps for the injectors?

Im looking for a source for plugging and capping various things
80 piece set on Amazon. Less than $10. There are likely shorter caps available. I also bought a small set by Dorman that included some larger caps and used them to cap the threaded connections on the FPR and FPDs.
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Old 02-22-2018, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Captain_Slow View Post
80 piece set on Amazon. Less than $10. There are likely shorter caps available. I also bought a small set by Dorman that included some larger caps and used them to cap the threaded connections on the FPR and FPDs.
Push-on caps. Available in all sizes:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#plastic-push-on-caps/=1boqu6v
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