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Old 05-15-2018, 10:06 PM
  #166  
The Forgotten On
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^^ That is known as a triple square bolt. You need to get a set of triple square bits to undo it and torque it. Larger ones are used to hold the flexplate/flywheel to the crank.
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Old 05-15-2018, 10:44 PM
  #167  
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I bought a set of Capri Tool sockets from Amazon, I think around $20. Just make sure they fit tight, for that price they can be one use and buy a new set.
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Old 05-15-2018, 11:03 PM
  #168  
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Originally Posted by The Forgotten On View Post
^^ That is known as a triple square bolt. You need to get a set of triple square bits to undo it and torque it. Larger ones are used to hold the flexplate/flywheel to the crank.
Thank you. I found several affordable sets. Do you know what size is needed for the bolts shown above? I want to make sure the set I buy has what I need.

EDIT: Suddenly remembered Bertrand posted earlier the link to a thread with a very comprehensive torques and sizes PDF. Now I know these things I'll be unbolting and removing are called "bearing saddles".



The industry name for the "triple square" bolts is XZN. Googling XZN M8 brought up pictures of the 8mm bolts and driver sockets. I didn't see a "check valve for chain tensioner" when replacing the tensioner pads...so now wondering about that.

Last edited by Captain_Slow; 05-16-2018 at 12:10 PM. Reason: Answered my own question
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Old 05-16-2018, 08:50 AM
  #169  
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“NOTE: I told him I was fine with the flaking paint inside the intake as I didn't want to introduce media to the inside. I described some of the worst 928 powder coating disaster stories and just how hard it is to get the media out. He looked at me and shrugged like it shouldn't be a big deal. I could tell he really knows what he is doing, but still I said "Don't worry about the inside". He blasted the inside anyway and every bit of it is down to bare metal...it's beautiful. I will still wash it, and he seemed humored by my paranoia. The real test will be what I find on the bottom of the plastic bin after I scrub and rinse it. I don't expect to find much.”

Jon,

I’ll be heading down the intake refresh road very soon so thanks for sharing the info on NV Coatings. Did you in fact find the intake to be free of any residue when you washed it?

Great looking work and thanks for sharing your experiences.

Roger

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Old 05-16-2018, 12:07 PM
  #170  
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Originally Posted by RDON View Post
“NOTE: I told him I was fine with the flaking paint inside the intake as I didn't want to introduce media to the inside. I described some of the worst 928 powder coating disaster stories and just how hard it is to get the media out. He looked at me and shrugged like it shouldn't be a big deal. I could tell he really knows what he is doing, but still I said "Don't worry about the inside". He blasted the inside anyway and every bit of it is down to bare metal...it's beautiful. I will still wash it, and he seemed humored by my paranoia. The real test will be what I find on the bottom of the plastic bin after I scrub and rinse it. I don't expect to find much.”

Jon,

I’ll be heading down the intake refresh road very soon so thanks for sharing the info on NV Coatings. Did you in fact find the intake to be free of any residue when you washed it?

Great looking work and thanks for sharing your experiences.

Roger


Hi Roger,
I pressure washed it, then washed it using car wash soap in a plastic bin. No evidence of any media in the bin.
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Old 05-16-2018, 06:56 PM
  #171  
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Captain_Slow
Thank You!
I think I ran across this but at first read I couldn't visualize it. I found some photos of the area that made things clearer. Thanks for finding this...
I had the same trouble as you trying to visualise how the pins worked to block off where the plugs were, until I found that thread with photo's before doing mine a couple of years ago.
Like a lot of things, it's kind of obvious once you know
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Old 05-20-2018, 01:13 AM
  #172  
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Default Oil block off pins

Stan was right. It takes about an hour to undo the triple square bolts, remove the bearing saddles, pull out the failure prone soft pucks (with pins), install new pins, reinstall the saddles, caps and arms - If this isn't your first time doing it. It took me hours. At first it seemed like it would be quick. Removing everything is easy. But installing the caps and arms is the big challenge - especially on the lower right side. I had to loosen the bolts a bit to install the caps evenly and flush, then retorqued the bolts. Getting the lower right (passenger side) cap arm aligned and the bolt tightened was a chore. The neodymium magnet bar from my name badge from Frenzy was the break through. I used a mirror to see the arm hole was aligned with the threaded hole in the head. Taped the arm in place. Then used the magnet bar to hold the bolt secure while hunting for the hole, then coming up underneath with two fingers of my other hand to get it started on the threads. No real method here...just fiddling and trying everything I could think of. I was pleased to see the arms on the driver side are up top and easy to reach. It should go quicker.

EDIT: Trey created a thread related to the pins and replacing the end caps. I learned a lot from it so am including it here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...le-advice.html



New caps where included in the kit that came with my car, so I replaced them.


Pulled ou the upper "puck" with pliers, twisting back and forth while pulling.


Old puck


New pins


Finished

Last edited by Captain_Slow; 05-23-2018 at 03:07 PM.
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Old 05-20-2018, 01:32 AM
  #173  
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Default Good time to replace the coolant tank and washer filler neck...

These two are devils...how hard could it be? I needed a few bandages after.



This is where I drew the line...I know the washer tank is filled with rusty bits. It will wait.


I swiftly broke the plastic Y connector. Luckily, Otto handed out some T fittings at a gathering a few years ago. He said they work great and he's right. I had to use a short bit of hose to make it work on the left connection, and it's so snug it doesn't need a clamp.


Looks like it will work fine.



Finally got tank and filler neck installed. I had hoped to install the cam cover today. Nope...

Last edited by Captain_Slow; 05-20-2018 at 07:24 AM.
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Old 05-20-2018, 01:27 PM
  #174  
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Wow, that new overflow tank is white...
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Old 05-20-2018, 02:40 PM
  #175  
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Ummm... did you replace the steel inserts in the neck and reservoir with inserts that won’t rust?

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Old 05-20-2018, 02:44 PM
  #176  
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Old 05-20-2018, 03:11 PM
  #177  
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I did the hot water bath and remove trick, but didn't replace them with an aluminum or other pipe material. I noticed the original coolant reservoir has a short copper pipe insert, not steel.

Last edited by Captain_Slow; 05-23-2018 at 03:08 PM.
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Old 05-20-2018, 03:54 PM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by Captain_Slow View Post
I did the hot water bath and remove trick, ...
Cool.
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Old 05-20-2018, 04:35 PM
  #179  
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Default Replacing Hall Sensor

As others have noted, the replacement Hall sensor has a slightly shorter connector wire. I read about flipping the connectors top and bottom on the bracket. I felt this put too much stress and bending on both. So I attached them in a way that I feel will benefit both connector wires.

The connector on the sensor side was crumbling. At this point, unless the one in your car has been replaced, it is ready to fall apart as soon as you touch it - just like the knock sensors and Crank Position Sensor. However, I do agree the sensor itself seems to be fine, so I will replace the connector and hope that Roger has longer wire available.

I had to pick the remnants of the male connector (sensor side) out of the female connector on the harness. The female connector is fine.

I used a long red bungee as a helper to reinstall the engine lift bracket. One hole on the bracket sits on a stud in the head. The other hole takes the bolt. The other end of the bungee is hooked on the suspension spring in the wheel well. Worked perfectly while I started the bolt from below with a long extension and universal joint.



used a dental type pick to remove fragments of the mail connector


connector falling apart





Scavenged a piece of overflow tubing from the old fluid reservoir. Slipped it over one arm of the bracket and hung the sensor wire over the tubing. No stress on the wires.
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Old 05-20-2018, 06:36 PM
  #180  
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Default Spare coolant tank nipple?

I don't recall anything being connected to one of the small nipples on the forward side of the coolant reservoir. I may have forgotten due to this project taking so long. If it is unused should I put a plug on this?

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