Intake and Cam Cover Refresh questions
#137
Team Owner
Those parts look great the important part on the cam covers is the sealing groove hopefully they blasted and coated this area as well as the spark plug sealing area on the underside of the cover.
I would advise you wash these parts in hot water with detergent soap and then blow dry,
do this process 3 times start to finish to guarantee the parts are really free from grit.
I would advise you wash these parts in hot water with detergent soap and then blow dry,
do this process 3 times start to finish to guarantee the parts are really free from grit.
#138
Drifting
Thread Starter
Just time for little stuff until after May 1
Those parts look great the important part on the cam covers is the sealing groove hopefully they blasted and coated this area as well as the spark plug sealing area on the underside of the cover.
I would advise you wash these parts in hot water with detergent soap and then blow dry,
do this process 3 times start to finish to guarantee the parts are really free from grit.
I would advise you wash these parts in hot water with detergent soap and then blow dry,
do this process 3 times start to finish to guarantee the parts are really free from grit.
Last edited by Captain_Slow; 04-15-2018 at 01:47 PM.
#139
Team Owner
blue bin works good, its a time consuming operation but missing something is worse
#140
Drifting
Thread Starter
CPS female harness connector repaired
The pics tell the tale. The key was folding over the electrical tape on itself to create a smooth tip to slide between the wires, then to grasp. I wrapped the repair work with electrical tape, then wrapped again with self vulcanizing tape. I put one zip tie to make sure the tail of the vulcanized tape doesn't lift. It feels like it will hold up well.
#141
Three Wheelin'
Mrmerlin,
What do you mean about coating where the gasket is located on the valve covers and inside/under the spark plug rings? On this guide it doesn't show that and my parts are at powder coat now.
"Those parts look great the important part on the cam covers is the sealing groove hopefully they blasted and coated this area as well as the spark plug sealing area on the underside of the cover."
Here is the link I'm referring to, am I reading this incorrectly?
http://www.ed.scherer.name/Porsche_9...ng%20Guide.pdf
Thanks for the additional input so if I need to let my powder coat shop know it will be okay. They were going to leave the channels underneath bare magnesium...
Bryan
What do you mean about coating where the gasket is located on the valve covers and inside/under the spark plug rings? On this guide it doesn't show that and my parts are at powder coat now.
"Those parts look great the important part on the cam covers is the sealing groove hopefully they blasted and coated this area as well as the spark plug sealing area on the underside of the cover."
Here is the link I'm referring to, am I reading this incorrectly?
http://www.ed.scherer.name/Porsche_9...ng%20Guide.pdf
Thanks for the additional input so if I need to let my powder coat shop know it will be okay. They were going to leave the channels underneath bare magnesium...
Bryan
#142
Drifting
Thread Starter
NGA GIS Fair was great...now back to the refresh...need some torque specs
Put the new heater valve and short hose in. Roger included new clamps (same as original) with the hose. The OEM hose and valve I removed were in good shape. The valve worked perfectly with a Mity-Vac attached. Still, decided to put the new one in and make the old one a spare.
Dwayne never mentions the torque on the bolt (thumb) and Allen head bolt (finger). Anyone know what the spec is? I realize I have to put the damper bracket under the Allen head.
Dwayne never mentions the torque on the bolt (thumb) and Allen head bolt (finger). Anyone know what the spec is? I realize I have to put the damper bracket under the Allen head.
#143
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
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Checked but didn't find anything. Don't remember either.
Hope this will help.
I found this here.
Post #3:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...rain-plug.html
Hope this will help.
I found this here.
Post #3:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...rain-plug.html
#144
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks Bertrand! I'm hoping Dwayne comes back to these later when the air box brackets are installed. The chart is helpful. I suspected the torques for each of the different bolt head diameters are fairly consistent.
Got the new CPS in and harness connection back together, and replaced the gasket for the left (drivers) rear coolant port. Nibbling away at it a little each evening.
Got the new CPS in and harness connection back together, and replaced the gasket for the left (drivers) rear coolant port. Nibbling away at it a little each evening.
#145
Addict
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#146
Drifting
Thread Starter
Dave - Tell me about the tightening in two stages for the water bridge bolts. Is it simply go half way all around then to full torque the second round?
#148
Addict
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On the rear, if you bolt the heater hose outlet and the cover plate first to 10 and then to 20 there is no way that won't be right.
That written, since the valve and plate are not subject to the large expansion of the engine block and don't 'tie the heads together' - unlike the bridge - you can just go to 20-22 N-m and be done.
#149
Drifting
Thread Starter
Don't look down! First attempt to replace cam chain tensioner pad
I've been dreading this one....the fear of a washer bouncing somewhere in the abyss of moving parts below.
I started with the right (passenger) side...
Notice the pieces of foam stuffed in the oil return ports.
Forgot to take a picture of the non-moving pad, but it had minimal wear.
Oddly, pushing hard to compress the piston feels like it does nothing, while just applying firm steady pressure results in oil seeping out of the feed port..allowing replacement of the pad.
I was worried the S4 tensioner didn't have a spring inside to at least hold the chain taught enough to start the engine and refill the piston with oil. I was relieved to find there IS a spring in it. No worries...it's not going to launch anything.
I got this idea from Rob Edward's nice pad r&r thread. Put one of the clip arms in a vice and used needle nose pliers to shape it. I highly recommend this little MacGyver hack. It does help with the installation by keeping the piston compressed.
Bend the binder clip arm upward about 20 degrees and installing the tensioner is as easy as it looks...one hand holding the handle, the other starting the first bolt on the tensioner base.
Then it was time to put this back...and it's little washer friends. Take a couple deep breaths...and here's a trick for getting the bottom washer in place on the lower banjo fitting....
A piece of thick solid core wire (or a metal coat hanger). Slip the washer on it, then place the end of the wire IN the lower banjo-bolt hole..let go of the washer and it falls into place.
Hard to see...the washer is in place. Carefully remove the wire so the washer doesn't get launched.
Remember to take the pieces of foam out.
I started around 4:30. Done by 7:00. Enough anxiety for one day. Tomorrow...the other side.
Looking forward to getting past these tensioner pads. I want to put the cam covers back on. I can't say I'm heading for the barn until I have replaced the intake and throttle body bearings and have both "flappy" mechanisms back together (with no parts leftover)..
I started with the right (passenger) side...
Notice the pieces of foam stuffed in the oil return ports.
Forgot to take a picture of the non-moving pad, but it had minimal wear.
Oddly, pushing hard to compress the piston feels like it does nothing, while just applying firm steady pressure results in oil seeping out of the feed port..allowing replacement of the pad.
I was worried the S4 tensioner didn't have a spring inside to at least hold the chain taught enough to start the engine and refill the piston with oil. I was relieved to find there IS a spring in it. No worries...it's not going to launch anything.
I got this idea from Rob Edward's nice pad r&r thread. Put one of the clip arms in a vice and used needle nose pliers to shape it. I highly recommend this little MacGyver hack. It does help with the installation by keeping the piston compressed.
Bend the binder clip arm upward about 20 degrees and installing the tensioner is as easy as it looks...one hand holding the handle, the other starting the first bolt on the tensioner base.
Then it was time to put this back...and it's little washer friends. Take a couple deep breaths...and here's a trick for getting the bottom washer in place on the lower banjo fitting....
A piece of thick solid core wire (or a metal coat hanger). Slip the washer on it, then place the end of the wire IN the lower banjo-bolt hole..let go of the washer and it falls into place.
Hard to see...the washer is in place. Carefully remove the wire so the washer doesn't get launched.
Remember to take the pieces of foam out.
I started around 4:30. Done by 7:00. Enough anxiety for one day. Tomorrow...the other side.
Looking forward to getting past these tensioner pads. I want to put the cam covers back on. I can't say I'm heading for the barn until I have replaced the intake and throttle body bearings and have both "flappy" mechanisms back together (with no parts leftover)..