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I have been working step by step through the write up in the stickies.
What exactly should things look like when “closed”? Pic below is where I “think” the transition block and cable should be when closed...pin on cable tight against stop pin in block.
should the front carrier rail be aligned with the end of the aluminum track when closed or a little ways back?
i know I am overthinking this...but it seems like there is almost no room for error with adjustment of this thing.
So before I can do any more testing, I realized that the bracket/spring that raises and lowers the wind deflector on the driver's side had broken once again. When it broke the first time, I tried to JB weld it back together, but I suspect there is just not enough surface area on either side of the hole to allow a good bond. So it broke again.
I suspect this is a common problem since there is a lot of stress put on a thin piece of plastic as the roof opens and closes. So I am trying a fix.
I took some thin aluminum sheet and encased the plastic part of the assembly to provide reinforcement. My only concern is that the aluminum I had lying around may be too thin, but we'll see. I have another idea in place if this one fails. Once the JB Weld cures we'll see if it works.
I am assuming this is a common breakpoint for all. My first thought would be to find someone who could remake the plastic part from milled aluminum...that is a ways off
The whole bracket - driver's side
Thin aluminum sheet will increase the surface area of the JB Weld coating around the plastic block rather than just on the broken segments.
Measured and cut. JB Weld is applied all the way around.
Set with a clamp. When cured, I'll cut the holes in the aluminum sheet for the screw with an exacto knife.
Here is the latest. Hole was cut and mounted perfectly back in place. Did not have any time at lunch to fiddle with the panel but maybe this evening.
-scott
01-22-2018, 04:08 PM
