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Do you guys replace your rusted fasteners?

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Do you guys replace your rusted fasteners?

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Old 01-16-2018, 02:57 PM
  #16  
dr bob
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Ken --

I notice that the cam cover bolts are now socket-head capscrews. How are you managing the seal where the factory bolt fits snugly in the cam cover grommets? Is the washer doing that duty now? Spacer sleeve/tube in there to do the stepped bolt duty and make the seal? That would support tougher bolts with deeper heads, making removal and installation easier. Fun stuff! I'm a stickler for originality on this car, else would be working on some of the makes-life-easier fastener changes you've made.

There's a nickel nuke-grade anti-seize that does a great job with SS->AL junctions. It doesn't cook out on steel exhaust fasteners either.
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Old 01-16-2018, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by dr bob View Post
Ken --

I notice that the cam cover bolts are now socket-head capscrews. How are you managing the seal where the factory bolt fits snugly in the cam cover grommets? Is the washer doing that duty now? Spacer sleeve/tube in there to do the stepped bolt duty and make the seal? That would support tougher bolts with deeper heads, making removal and installation easier. Fun stuff! I'm a stickler for originality on this car, else would be working on some of the makes-life-easier fastener changes you've made.

There's a nickel nuke-grade anti-seize that does a great job with SS->AL junctions. It doesn't cook out on steel exhaust fasteners either.
The Cam Cover Bolts you see are what the motor came with, cleaned and powder coated obviously. The washers are new rubber backed washers, I _think_ from Roger, but maybe from Bel-metric. I'm scratching my head now that you asked, as I don't recall doing anything special during assembly, just put it back using o-ring where called for, typical S3. Little different than S4 covers with the acorn shaped "thrust ring".

Now that I am thinking about it, I may have put a dab of Honda-Bond on each o-ring and rubber backed washer for the cam covers. In any case, no leaks yet.

I have nickel anti-seize, and use it liberally. I saw it mentioned a while ago in a post ( it may have been yours, now that I am thinking about it) and picked up lifetime supply. The good news is that it is just as messy and stains just as much as every other type of anti-seize.
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Old 01-16-2018, 06:59 PM
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Those shallow hex bolts were stock for the 86/86.5 covers, and the rubbers backed washers will work w/o sealant.
I use the 'o' rings on the Cam cover bolts along w/ the rubber backed washers and no leaks.

On S3 covers, you can also use the taller/deeper S4 Hex bolts, washers and grommets, however some of the grommets need to be trimmed thinner to get the bolts to bite.

Looks good Ken, nothing beats building one on a stand

Dave
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Old 01-16-2018, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by NoVector View Post

+1 Someone mentioned Fluid Film here on Rennlist a couple years ago and I decided to give it a try. So far, I'm very happy with the result. I did the top end refresh 2 years ago and re-zinc'd everything and this is how it still looks today. Keep in mind this was in Germany with high humidity/rain all year long. There were times in the winter when the car was stored in the garage that the engine would be covered in dew. The "zincing" was with a home zinc plating kit; so, I attribute the yellow (and zinc) longevity to fluid film.


I know I mentioned fluid film. We use it on all of our salting equipment and it is the bomb (as the kids say). We get much more life out of things that are coated with Fluid Film. We learned about this from John Deere who use it on items shipped overseas in containers.
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Old 01-16-2018, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by KenRudd View Post
The good news is that it is just as messy and stains just as much as every other type of anti-seize.
Keep it off your skin. When I was researching anti-seize for SS fasters I found stuff that indicated the nickel is really bad for you.
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Old 01-17-2018, 12:30 AM
  #21  
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For all things not normally visible to the eye like under car stuff such as suspension bolts, nuts, even steel arms I like to use the AMSOIL HD metal protector.

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...tal-protector/

It does leave a slightly yellowish tint which is why I saw for all things unseen.

For everything else there is fluid film

When I brought the wifes V10 TDi Toraueg home from Florida the undercarriage was spotless.
One of the first things I did was spray everything possible under it.

It saw a couple Pennsylvania winters and still looked like the day I sprayed it.
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Old 01-17-2018, 10:09 AM
  #22  
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I always replace all my hardware with new when it is less than perfect. I collect the old and when I get enough I toss the damaged ones and send them out locally to have them Gold cad electroplated. The local place did work for me when I was supplying parts for the aerospace industry and are still approved to do it although they only do it in small quantities and I have to be very specific when having it done.AFAIK they continued to electroplate these at least through 95. The shop accidentally zinc plated some a while back and I tried them. They did not last long and quickly started to corrode.I would say gold cad will last 5-10 times longer than zinc anodizing. So I have to make sure they cad plate vs anodize

I have aa bunch of bins and about 5 multi sectioned carrying cases of assorted size bolts and fasteners. They also do clear cad for me on items that didn't get the gold treatment. I might get long standing customer pricing but last time I Sent out 1000 fasteners and they charged me $100. If I had to buy the parts new from Porsche it would have been well into multiple thousands and most come new either zinc plated or no platting at all.


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