porsche 928 s2 1984
#1
porsche 928 s2 1984
Made me smile looking at my pall, just can't sell this one, one original pre-family owned, only driver's seat ever sat in, really like the s2, they make me smile every time I look at it.
Please help me and my car, I have 1984 s2 drove perfect no noises from engine purred, then parked up now won't start.
very low compression on all cylinders, cam belt fine and has not jumped a tooth.
Fuel reaching cylinders even thou pressure a little low.
Has spark at all eight spark plugs.
oil crank sensor? oil pump failure/ oil pump pick up blocked.
Please email porschesales1234@live.com
drove fine till parked up.
Last edited by lovemy928; 01-12-2018 at 01:18 PM. Reason: add email address to post.
#2
Rennlist Member
The engine will run if any and or all of these are no-functioning, just not for long
none of these have any effect on starting or running
".. oil crank sensor? oil pump failure/ oil pump pick up blocked. .."
How old is the fuel, how long was it parked outside, how fresh is the battery, and what do you consider low compression on a standing cold engine?
Dave K
none of these have any effect on starting or running
".. oil crank sensor? oil pump failure/ oil pump pick up blocked. .."
How old is the fuel, how long was it parked outside, how fresh is the battery, and what do you consider low compression on a standing cold engine?
Dave K
#3
Nordschleife Master
Well, in theory, if it has spark fuel and compression it should start.
If there was a problem with the oil system, it would start. It would run for a short time, make lots and lots of really ugly noises and then quit.
Soooo...
Have you tried to run it on starting fluid? Spray a small amount into the intake horns and see what happens.
If it fires up for a few seconds, then the cam timing and ignition are working correctly and you likely have a fuel delivery issue.
If not, then there is likely an issue with either the ignition or the cam timing.
Just out of curiosity, how are you determining that it has fuel and spark?
If there was a problem with the oil system, it would start. It would run for a short time, make lots and lots of really ugly noises and then quit.
Soooo...
Have you tried to run it on starting fluid? Spray a small amount into the intake horns and see what happens.
If it fires up for a few seconds, then the cam timing and ignition are working correctly and you likely have a fuel delivery issue.
If not, then there is likely an issue with either the ignition or the cam timing.
Just out of curiosity, how are you determining that it has fuel and spark?
#4
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
A. I doubt anyone will be emailing you with suggestions, but who knows? Maybe. However, this is a forum for online help.
B. Start with a very good or new battery. Spray a little WD-40 or other spray lubricant into all cylinders.
C. Get a new compression tester that screws into the spark plug holes, not the kind with the rubber bushing you push down.
D. Open throttle fully, retest compression on all cyl.
Report results. If all compression still lower than about 90PSI, we will go further. Triple check your cam timing, or have another set of knowledgable eyes verify cam timing. That's about the only thing that can affect comp on all cylinders on both banks.
B. Start with a very good or new battery. Spray a little WD-40 or other spray lubricant into all cylinders.
C. Get a new compression tester that screws into the spark plug holes, not the kind with the rubber bushing you push down.
D. Open throttle fully, retest compression on all cyl.
Report results. If all compression still lower than about 90PSI, we will go further. Triple check your cam timing, or have another set of knowledgable eyes verify cam timing. That's about the only thing that can affect comp on all cylinders on both banks.
#5
mine has never left the garage more than 8' it might be scared, but engine ran , redid many things under the hood it started up and ran, sat for a few months lil beyatch woudn't run after much testing and research from here = crankshaft sensor gremlins. sensor broke on removal ( great just perfect) tried heating it wouldn't budge, ez out helped remove some of the micro wire winding, put some gorilla glue in there and on a stud figuired it would expand fill voids harden and let me pull it out, nope, first time the big monkey ever let me down. 2 part epoxy in the hole and on a new stud and walked away for a few days. came back deep socket, washer and nut on top turned it and slowly made it's way out. hole was all oxidized cleaned it antiseized it and prayed never to go there again
#6
Hi Dave. I see you have an 84, as do I. I have noticed the CAT gets the inside ashtray and switches for windows etc... very hot. My car has 9,500 on it and it is great. She runs amazing. I'm just wondering if this is normal and perhaps I need to look at the heat shield over the CAT and apply some better insulation etc... It just seems to get a bit to hot and makes me nervous. Of course when I'm driving and the car has good airflow, its not as bad. I live in Vegas, so you can only imagine. I never really take her out in the Summer. Just curious on your thoughts. Thanks.
#7
Hi Dave. I see you have an 84, as do I. I have noticed the CAT gets the inside ashtray and switches for windows etc... very hot. My car has 9,500 on it and it is great. She runs amazing. I'm just wondering if this is normal and perhaps I need to look at the heat shield over the CAT and apply some better insulation etc... It just seems to get a bit to hot and makes me nervous. Of course when I'm driving and the car has good airflow, its not as bad. I live in Vegas, so you can only imagine. I never really take her out in the Summer. Just curious on your thoughts. Thanks.
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#8
Thanks for responding. I will move to a new thread. I will also have my CAT checked out. Do you have issues, on hot summer days, with your gas cavitating and causing poor running? If it is 100+ outside, my car hates it. I also installed the internal fuel pump, which did help a bit. Just curious if you ever have issues with yours.
#9
Thanks for responding. I will move to a new thread. I will also have my CAT checked out. Do you have issues, on hot summer days, with your gas cavitating and causing poor running? If it is 100+ outside, my car hates it. I also installed the internal fuel pump, which did help a bit. Just curious if you ever have issues with yours.
#10
Team Owner
Hi Dave. I see you have an 84, as do I. I have noticed the CAT gets the inside ashtray and switches for windows etc... very hot. My car has 9,500 on it and it is great. She runs amazing. I'm just wondering if this is normal and perhaps I need to look at the heat shield over the CAT and apply some better insulation etc... It just seems to get a bit to hot and makes me nervous. Of course when I'm driving and the car has good airflow, its not as bad. I live in Vegas, so you can only imagine. I never really take her out in the Summer. Just curious on your thoughts. Thanks.
from what you report heat is coming up through the shifter hole and then through the console you’ll find that if you put the windows up and close the sunroof and drive it the heat will stop
As soon as you open the window or the sunroof it will create a suction and pull the heat through the shifter
what usually needs to happen is the foam pad that’s on the torque tube needs to be lifted. Up.
Note the motor mounts and trans mounts need to be replaced to lift the torque tube and foam pad back in the position
I would check the mounts first but otherwise it could’ve easily gotten eaten by a mouse and that could be the reason or somebody pulled the foam pad out while they were messing with something and didn’t put it back in properly
Note their should also be a rubber boot under the shifter boot with the heat you report
Your boot probably has a hole in to let the heat through
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 09-13-2022 at 03:49 PM.