PS pressure hose: new, used, reman?
 

not sure why, but my PS pressure hose from pump to rack was "leaning" against the exhaust manifold
and burned thru the hose.

should I replace with brand new, good used, or take to a local hose shop to have them remake it?

also, this does not look like fun to replace? is it as much of a PITA as it looks??

Any good hose shop should be able to re-man it for you. Just make sure they re-use the inline flow restriction and install a new piece of heat resistant sleeving. Don't install a used one as you could get that complete only to have it rupture the next day and burn the car to the ground. Changing it out is relatively straight-forward once you drop the alternator out of the way.

Mike

[QUOTE][re-use the inline flow restriction and install a new piece of heat resistant sleeving/QUOTE]

I understand the heat sleeve, but what is the inline flow restriction? something inside the hose?

also, what's this burn the car down stuff? don't like to hear that story???

That would be from a power-steering leak igniting on the hot exhaust.

As already suggested, get a new or remanufactured hose.

And you need to address why the hose was out of position. There are a couple of plastic body clamps the secure the hose to the body.

Kevin, it was too hot to check earlier but it doesn't appear that the fittings at either end are loose, but
those fittings determine the orientation of the hose.

Mike, what is the inline flow restriction?

what Kevin said...........on LHD cars the hose is clamped to the drivers side fender.

There is a Little metal fitting in the middle of the hose. That is the restrictor. You need it. If you have the hose rebuilt the hydraulic hose place you use should be able to rebuild it for you.

Have seen this comment made a number of times but when I rebuilt my hose about this time last year the bit in the middle was nothing more than an outer shroud crimped over the hose to hold it in position. There was absolutely squat in the middle of the hose and if there is some kind of restriction it could only be within one of the fittings at either end and I could see no sign of such. After being rebuilt the system performed just as it did previously. There did not seem to be any sign of the outer crimp restricting the internal diameter of the hose.

After the rebuild I examined the hose I removed carefully and could find nothing obviously wrong anywhere but preemptively replacing it is the way to go without doubt. What I did find was that the lower pressure/return hoses were in pretty poor shape. The change out is a little fiddly but not too difficult and you need new crush washers for the banjo bolts. One of the low pressure hoses was a little problemmatical in that the size of the fitting was different from one end to the other or so it seemed but I had hose of either two or three different sizes to play with. The problem I did have was that the shop doing the high pressure hose for me unknown to me deformed the fitting at one end slighly and no way was that thing going to bolt up. When I took them to task technician told me what he had done and cold pulled it back slighly in a vice- that solved the fitment issue. You also need to make sure that when they fit the hose end connections they do so at the correct orientation of the fitting. I simply looked along the axis, made a note of where on the clock face the fitting sat relative to the other end positioned at 12.00 as it were- cannot remember the numbers but it is critical to note and check that before you hand the piece in for working and make sure they understand this [which they probably will].

Fred's correct. There is no restrictor at that location. It is merely a location part to keep the anti rub grommet in place so your hose doesn't rub against anything in that local.

thanks for the clarification about the hose.

got the hose out threading it downward nearest the rack.

on install, it will be a challenge to get the banjo bolt started at the pump. thinking
if I drop the oil cooler lines, I might be able to get my fingers in there. otherwise, will
be forced to drop the alternator.

Drop the alternator, way easier than messing with the oil lines. Good opportunity to clean in that quadrant of the engine compartment.

Does anyone have a photo of the plastic clips and their location? I do not seem to have them.

are you referring to the clip rearward of the shock tower that holds the two rack lines side by side??

When I did my hoses (RHD) the fitting into the pump was stuck so tightly that I had to completely remove the pump to separate the hose. The R&R was necessary due to a pinhole leak that was (fortunately!) only dribbling down the inner guard onto the ground. I found getting the return line onto the reservoir such a PITA that I used a couple of hydraulic fittings to do the diameter change, and looped the hose right around the reservoir to ease the angle.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k

Thanks guys, I do have that clip that holds the hard lines in parallel. Wasn't there when I got the car but replaced it. I thought that there may be a couple of others that helped secure it away from the engine components.

Take the opportunity to Inspect the heavy power cable tucked behind / in the vicinity of the power steering reservoir.

I've seen some that are sloughing-off insulation. Very dangerous situation if it shorts against body or bracket in that area.

The cable is for powering the antilock unit in the fender. You can weld with it it has so much power.

A brand new factory hose with the proper hose that is compatible with Dextron, has the correct pressure rating, and the correct crimping retails for $220.00 (I'm including these hoses in my year end 10% sale, plus including the required sealing washers.) Should be good for another 25 years.

The metal sections of the hose are always distorted from the first crimping, making the second crimping (replacing the hose) very inferior.

Rebuilding a hose with unknown quality, might not be the best money you could spend.....when you consider that a hole in a power steering hose generally results in a fire.

Like I tell people that use generic hose and generic hose clamps on their fuel lines, this might not be the best place to economize.

Install a brand new Porsche factory hose and forget about it.

Greg -

I'm looking at doing this job myself very soon and have a question based on the fuel lines I got from you last year. I notice that you're using aluminum fittings on your "reproductions" that seem superior to the original 35+ year old crimped lines. Isn't there anything similar available to "reproduce" the PS lines using modern parts?

Thanks,