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I am pulling the clutch due to a number of problems. i will obviously need to dismntle the clutch pack, now I have seen this, but can someone give me advance warning as to what this broken piece is?
If it is the intermediate plate, it seems they are simply not available for a 79. Which seems pretty bad news.
Ok thats it apart, yup its deinitely broke. Interesting surface pattern on the contact surface too.
Pressure plate and TOB seem ok (how to test it?). Front clutch disc is on the thin side, not on the rivets but probably needs replacing. Rear is healthier, but can anyone give me a minimum thickness to consider replacement? I am pretty easy on clutches.
Disc 1 is 7.4mm new
Disc 2 is 8.2mm new
I do not know of a "spec " for allowable thickness but it sounds like at least one of your needs replacing
We have good used for $50 each
OK thanks for the information Mark. Seems like a good deal...mine are coming in at 6.2 and 7.0, but also no.1 is a bit frayed at the edge. I read that they should be replaced in pairs?
i will add a pilot bearing to the tab for sure.
I have emailed you anyway, get back to me when you have a shipping cost, I’ll get back to you on the discs.
Post a pic of your stub shaft splines. If there's a pronounced bump around the middle, and the splines either side look worn, that will also need replacing, to ensure the replacement plates can slide freely on the shaft.
As the driven plates have been 'cooked', I think you'd be wise to at least replace them with good used.
What do the pressure plate and flywheel look like?
Take the flywheel and the repl intermediate plate to a good clutch/trans shop. Ask them to clean them up but take as LITTLE material as they can get away with. It would be best if you could try to check the axial runout on the flywheel. It may have a very slight wobble which sometimes causes that pattern on the plates. New friction plates will make all the difference in operation. Also check the clutch fork, ball cup and ball, and all the other stuff while you are in there. It's all wear items, so do it now, or pay more later.
That flywheel looks bad. You can try cleaning it up, but if you go past minimum thickness and there are still hard spots, then you'll need to replace it. Cleaning up a good used is probably a better option, considering yours is a crap shoot. You could clean yours up and then find the effort is wasted, and have to repeat the process on a replacement. Maybe Mark has a good used.
Pressure plate ... Take the circlip off the retainer that you can see in your photo, to allow you to remove the release bearing. If the fingers are OK and not badly grooved, and the plate can be cleaned up it may be OK.
Stub shaft ... compare the splines on the clamp end (undamaged), with the splines at the clutch end. You can see there's a ridge in the middle, and the splines either side have been hammered and worn. If you use that shaft again, the driven plates will be rotationally sloppy, which will hammer the shaft and plate splines further, and that ridge may impede the movement of the plates to fully release. As DD clutches are a PITA to adjust, this is one one item IMO shouldn't be compromised, and you don't want to prematurely damage the splines on you replacement plates, by using the original stub shaft. Greg has a harder replacement shaft (and is selling them cheaper ATM)... it would be difficult to find a really good used.
Dave, thanks - I see the spline damage now seeing the pic on my laptop not phone.
Who is Greg please?
This is great advice, I really appreciate it - there just isnt the knowledge in shops anywhere near me, its great to be able to do this myself a) properly and b) without blowing the doors off the budget.
Re the flywheel, Christmas has come early in the form of this NOS 79 flywheel on ebay for 30 quid!! My current flywheel is stamped 928 102 202 4R, whereas the new one is P/N 928 102 202 04. However that fits for pre 1980 on the parts PET, and it looks the same, so I'm 'avin it.
12-19-2017, 07:04 PM
Is this broken part my clutch intermediate plate?
