Braided SS teflon fuel hose to replace rusty under body hard fuel lines?
12-03-2017, 09:28 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Braided SS teflon fuel hose to replace rusty under body hard fuel lines?
Hi Guys,
Over the Winter I was contemplating using braided SS PTFE fuel hose tor replace my hard under body fuel lines. Is there any problem other than connector compatibility?
Thanks,
Dave
Over the Winter I was contemplating using braided SS PTFE fuel hose tor replace my hard under body fuel lines. Is there any problem other than connector compatibility?
Thanks,
Dave
12-03-2017, 09:50 PM
#2
Nordschleife Master
Another issue is the shorter lifetime of SS hose. The teflon can creep off the fitting and fail. I used to replace mine annually. Now it's more like every 3 years.
12-03-2017, 10:08 PM
#3
Vegas, Baby!
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
There's a reason, the manufacturers use hard metal lines, where applicable. The lines on the outside may get crusty looking, or have surface rust, but believe it or not those things help preserve the hard metal lines. The lines most likely look just as they did on the inside, when the car was assembled. The only reason for rubber lines is flexibility.
Like most things, the flexible rubber lines need replacement when you notice that they've deteriorated, but the hard lines should never need replacement unless they've been allowed to move around and have been abraded.
Case in point, my Packard, and Cord still have the original hard fuel and brake lines. The rubber lines have been replaced quite a few times. Both cars are over 80 years old.
Like most things, the flexible rubber lines need replacement when you notice that they've deteriorated, but the hard lines should never need replacement unless they've been allowed to move around and have been abraded.
Case in point, my Packard, and Cord still have the original hard fuel and brake lines. The rubber lines have been replaced quite a few times. Both cars are over 80 years old.
12-03-2017, 10:36 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
There's a reason, the manufacturers use hard metal lines, where applicable. The lines on the outside may get crusty looking, or have surface rust, but believe it or not those things help preserve the hard metal lines. The lines most likely look just as they did on the inside, when the car was assembled. The only reason for rubber lines is flexibility.
Like most things, the flexible rubber lines need replacement when you notice that they've deteriorated, but the hard lines should never need replacement unless they've been allowed to move around and have been abraded.
Case in point, my Packard, and Cord still have the original hard fuel and brake lines. The rubber lines have been replaced quite a few times. Both cars are over 80 years old.
Like most things, the flexible rubber lines need replacement when you notice that they've deteriorated, but the hard lines should never need replacement unless they've been allowed to move around and have been abraded.
Case in point, my Packard, and Cord still have the original hard fuel and brake lines. The rubber lines have been replaced quite a few times. Both cars are over 80 years old.
Dave
12-03-2017, 10:55 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
There's a reason, the manufacturers use hard metal lines, where applicable. The lines on the outside may get crusty looking, or have surface rust, but believe it or not those things help preserve the hard metal lines. The lines most likely look just as they did on the inside, when the car was assembled. The only reason for rubber lines is flexibility.
Like most things, the flexible rubber lines need replacement when you notice that they've deteriorated, but the hard lines should never need replacement unless they've been allowed to move around and have been abraded.
Case in point, my Packard, and Cord still have the original hard fuel and brake lines. The rubber lines have been replaced quite a few times. Both cars are over 80 years old.
Like most things, the flexible rubber lines need replacement when you notice that they've deteriorated, but the hard lines should never need replacement unless they've been allowed to move around and have been abraded.
Case in point, my Packard, and Cord still have the original hard fuel and brake lines. The rubber lines have been replaced quite a few times. Both cars are over 80 years old.
12-03-2017, 10:56 PM
#6
Vegas, Baby!
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Dave, I wouldn't worry about it. I would how ever make sure that all the hard lines are still stationary, and haven't been rubbing on the frame or body. That surface rust is just that, surface rust. Nothing to be concerned about.
12-03-2017, 11:02 PM
#7
Vegas, Baby!
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
If there's something I have learned in my short time on Rennlist, it is listen to Joe. He's been around longer than most of us and has more experience than most of us combined. In fact, I can attest that he has more experience than 99% of the world will ever have after seeing and hearing all the crazy, super genius, national security, brotherhood **** he has done.
If I really knew so much, I'd have made it to 3rd coast, last month!
Trending Topics
12-04-2017, 01:54 AM
#9
Rennlist Member
12-04-2017, 02:34 AM
#10
Rennlist
Basic Site Sponsor
Basic Site Sponsor
If the metal lines are really bad, just make new ones.
It's really pretty simple and we do it every once in a while, when the 10mm fitting at the end of the line gets frozen and won't turn without twisting the entire line.
You can buy all the parts required to make your own lines out of the original material. It's pretty soft and simple to make all the curves.
Fedhill has the line and the ends. It comes in a coil and the hardest part is getting it perfectly straight. I bought a tube straightener for when I do this....works great. Patience also works...it's that soft!
I also have a hydraulic crimper that makes perfect German bubble flares for the ends of the line.
BTW....Goodridge Teflon lined -3 stainless hose would also work. The expansion of that hose is zero, for all intents and purposes. I'd rather see you do it original as possible, however. The metal line is easier to put into the stock clips and you never have to worry about it coming loose and snagging on something.
It's really pretty simple and we do it every once in a while, when the 10mm fitting at the end of the line gets frozen and won't turn without twisting the entire line.
You can buy all the parts required to make your own lines out of the original material. It's pretty soft and simple to make all the curves.
Fedhill has the line and the ends. It comes in a coil and the hardest part is getting it perfectly straight. I bought a tube straightener for when I do this....works great. Patience also works...it's that soft!
I also have a hydraulic crimper that makes perfect German bubble flares for the ends of the line.
BTW....Goodridge Teflon lined -3 stainless hose would also work. The expansion of that hose is zero, for all intents and purposes. I'd rather see you do it original as possible, however. The metal line is easier to put into the stock clips and you never have to worry about it coming loose and snagging on something.
12-04-2017, 07:20 PM
#11
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
My concerns with hose replacing hard sections include how to support the hose so it doesn't droop, and maybe some vulnerability to damage. I'm pretty sure I've never seen any serious cars with hoses under the tub.
12-06-2017, 12:23 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-fuel-fun.html
And pictures.
Ful lines made by Pirtek
Brackets made by Ad0911
Flex line to hard line, supported by bracket
Flex line coupler to hard line, with support
Flex line to hard line, viewed from the front
12-06-2017, 08:07 PM
#13
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I had a 37 Cord Beverley Custom with FC exhaust back in the day. Never could get it to shift correctly. I adjusted and aligned that servo a dozen times. It would shift good for about 25 shifts, then balk. Grrrr
