davek9

I have two electric "remotes" installed, one on the car I use for DE/Track and one on the Twin Screw SC car, and yes they can log data.
AutoMeter 0 to 100 PSI, around 200 bucks with the sender (adapter not included

Also I'll put a mechanical gauge on the rail when I first put one on the road that's been apart, just in case I have any issues its easy to see what the pressure is, after a moth of driving I remove and cap the rail if all good.

Dave K

SwayBar

In my GT racecar, I've installed an electric fuel pressure gauge which was very easy to do.

However, for the electrical sender, finding an M12 3/8 NPT fitting for the end of the fuel rail which actually seals has been impossible.

Drilling the end of the stock one leaks, and I found an aluminum adapter with 3 3/8 NPT ports, but it leaks too since it does not have an embedded o-ring to seal against the end of the fuel rail.

I would like to be able to monitor my fuel pressure at any time while on the track.

davek9

I've been using a drilled Stock with Loctite fuel sealant w/o any issues, I tried the tape and it yellows and doesn't last long, maybe I had the incorrect type.
I let the Loctite sit overnight before installing / exposing it to fuel.

Dave

Imo000

I've drilled and tapped mine when I first built my SC setup. Used teflon tape and the gauge was on there for a very long time and didn't leak at all. Then one day I realized this was nothing more than a show piece and removed it to eliminate any possibility of an unwanted leak at that point. My fuel system saw near 100psi at full boost every time I went full throttle to redline and fortunately my ghetto setup never leaked, but it could have easily ended in a carbique. Especially since the gauge I used was just a $2 unit meant for air compressors. Yes, I was extremely stupid to do this but was also very lucky and nothing happened.

SwayBar

Are you saying you applied the Loctite onto the threads of the fuel rail, let it sit over night, and then installed the fitting?

Did you torque the fitting to 84 in lbs?

davek9

No not the Rail end, the Sender end.

I wen't out to the garage and took some pic's just so happens that both examples are here.

One is using the drilled stock cap and it has a copper "o"ring and a bit of sealant on the Rail end as well as sealant on the sender, no leaks.
The other, is one of Rogers adapters from his "test gauge" setup, it was salvaged from a car I purchased with an old gauge still attached, no sealant on the rail, just the sender end.

Here's some pic I just took




I did not torque them just snugged them up.

Hope this helps

Dave

dr bob

The original cap uses a ball in the cap that seals against the flared end of the rail when the cap is snugged. The threads on the rail and cap are straight, so no sealing is available or expected. Geo55's solution is to add an o-ring where the adapter meets the relatively squared end section of the rail below the threads, so that fuel that passes through the threads is retained by the o-ring. With the original cap and the ball seal in the end of the rail where it flares, no fuel ever makes it to the threads if the ball seals correctly. I've seen a few cars that have had the threaded end of the rail stretched by over-tightening the cap, trying to get it to seal. My basic solution to cap sealing problems is to add some Teflon paste to the ball and the flared end of the rail, so it seals before the ball makes a bad impression on the rail.

When I use my threaded factory cap, I put a brass compression ferrule for 1'4" tubing in the cap, sitting on the end of the 1/4" dia threaded fitting on the end of the hose, handily protruding into the cap to support the ferrule. With the cap snugged, the brass makes the seal at the rail end in the ball flare there, and on the inside of the cap around the end of the hose. No leaks, and the brass is soft enough to form a seal with minimum torque on the nut.

I'm not all on board with using fuel-proof threadlocker to try and seal the straight threads on the rail with an adapter.

My too sense.