Socal_Tom

The engine is out, so that is a plus. Hard brake lines removed from the master cylinder already too.

BC

With no engine it’s butter easy. Four nuts on the firewall above the pedals and take out the pin from the pedal.

Socal_Tom

Thank you. I’m sure I’ll find a way to complicate it, but that’s encouraging.

Mrmerlin

For 10 inch booster removal, I would suggest you put piece of protective covering over the MC seating surface so it wont get scratched, duct tape then a flat piece of metal.

Then with a helper, press the pedal down ,
fit a hose over the push rod then clamp a vice grip onto the rod. taking care not to scratch the surface of the rod or the booster .

Then disconnect the clevis pin under the dash ,and remove the 4 booster mounting nuts then pull the booster free.
this will let the booster come free of its mounting area with the most clearance.

Use DC 111 on the MC /booster mating surface O ring and the MC tank grommets and bores

Socal_Tom

Thanks gentlemen.

BC

That is for removing the unit with the engine in the car. OP stated he has no engine in.

Also, details matter, as the 10 inch booster was made easier to remove because the longer threaded block can be unscrewed.

Mrmerlin

I will just leave this here pictures are better for most.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...1GZtyshctizk1T

Socal_Tom

Thank you for the help and discussion. It made quick work of this, much appreciated.