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How best to reinforce the front sway bar mounts?

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Old 11-15-2017, 03:18 PM
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Peter F
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Very good point Greg, fully agree on this!
Old 11-16-2017, 08:43 AM
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Dave928S
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Originally Posted by SeanR
I'd be looking at those tires closely too.
I'd go further than that .... I can see from here in Australia that the one in the pic is shagged!
Old 11-16-2017, 10:00 AM
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Socal_Tom
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Originally Posted by Dave928S
I'd go further than that .... I can see from here in Australia that the one in the pic is shagged!
Good eyes gentlemen, these tires are 17 years old and dry rotten from the California sun. They are only being used to keep the car off the ground and will be replaced before the car moves under it's own power. Thanks for the concern.

Does anyone have a picture of how they boxed the mount?
Old 11-16-2017, 10:14 AM
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Carl Fausett
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The only way to "fix" this area is to "box" in the mount and add thicker metal to the plate where the sway bar sway bar actually attaches.
I disagree. Experience has shown me there is more than one way to reinforce this part successfully.
Old 11-16-2017, 11:00 AM
  #20  
GlenL
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Originally Posted by GregBBRD
Come on, people. Stop and look at what is happening, here.
I'm usually 5% smarter than stamped metal but I didn't look at the picture closely. Yes, the nuts got ripped out. Most of the time the bracket gets ripped off the body.

Looks like the full improvement is to reinforce both. The nuts seem a challenge.
Old 11-16-2017, 01:56 PM
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dr bob
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Were I doing this mod from scratch without any consideration for maintaining originality... I'd make or find a piece of channel that would slip over the "frame" section. The old mount would come off completely. The channel sections would then get welded horizontally to the sides of the "frame" section. The channel would be drilled, and I'd add a steel strap that would slide inside, nuts welded over holes to accept bolts from the bracket. In the factory configuration, the load on the bracket has the bolts in shear loading, so moving everything horizontal would change that to tension only, hence the plate in the channel pieces to spread the load. Option: Slots or multiple holes in the channel would allow one to offer easy link alignment using a bar with several holes in the arms so the anti-roll could be "tunable".. Adjusting the height of the channel would also allow a straight bar such as the one Carl offers to clear the sump and starter a little more easily. A little creative engineering would allow for an additional lower cross-member for frame/tub support, bolting to the same channel sections on the "frame". Thinking "inside the box", so to speak.
Old 11-20-2017, 12:58 PM
  #22  
Speedtoys
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https://www.flickr.com/photos/288046.../shares/xp1w22

We added metal to the nut, and welded the nut more too, factory just spot welds it.


Ive had on a stock bar, the nuts come loose..so this nut came lose and ripped out.
Old 11-20-2017, 03:49 PM
  #23  
Socal_Tom
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Thank you
Old 11-21-2017, 06:59 PM
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95carrera
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Mine ripped just like this one due to poor road and oversized aftermarket sway bar installed by previous owner. My mechanic welded in a piece of metal to fix it.
Old 12-02-2017, 09:03 AM
  #25  
Socal_Tom
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Some progress to report;

Before;



After (still need to dress the welds and prime etc)



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