Bad hall sensor symptoms?
#16
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
thanks Kevin
pretty sure its a 4mm. I got an standard allen on the upper one, from the top side, but no way to get pliers or vice grips on to get the proper leverage.
fortunately, I took off the air pump and all the smog related bits a few months back, so it "looks" like I might catch a break and perhaps it won't be so terrible....???
pretty sure its a 4mm. I got an standard allen on the upper one, from the top side, but no way to get pliers or vice grips on to get the proper leverage.
fortunately, I took off the air pump and all the smog related bits a few months back, so it "looks" like I might catch a break and perhaps it won't be so terrible....???
#17
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
OK, so reality is setting in: this is not fun
calling all those who have swapped out the hall sensor
with the smog and air pump parts removed, I have a clear visual on the 2 allen bolts and the back of the hall sensor
it does not look like I can get square on those bolts with the cam cover in place. I think if I remove the cam cover, I can get a good grip on those bolts.
consensus???
also, once I take off that cam cover, do I NEED to replace the gasket (don't want to) or can I just put it all back together?? dry or with sealant??
calling all those who have swapped out the hall sensor
with the smog and air pump parts removed, I have a clear visual on the 2 allen bolts and the back of the hall sensor
it does not look like I can get square on those bolts with the cam cover in place. I think if I remove the cam cover, I can get a good grip on those bolts.
consensus???
also, once I take off that cam cover, do I NEED to replace the gasket (don't want to) or can I just put it all back together?? dry or with sealant??
#18
Team Owner
you need 2 or three 1/4 inch extensions with a 1/4 inch drive allen socket,
this will give you about 14 inches of length,
stick the tool into the bolt ,
tap it to seat it,
and remove it.
NOTE 3m strip caulk is a good thing to put on the tip of the tool so the bolt wont fall off .
NOTE loosen the lift hook so it falls out of the way keep the bolt in.
If your fuel line is in the way disconnect it,
also remove the plug wires from the cover.
this will give you about 14 inches of length,
stick the tool into the bolt ,
tap it to seat it,
and remove it.
NOTE 3m strip caulk is a good thing to put on the tip of the tool so the bolt wont fall off .
NOTE loosen the lift hook so it falls out of the way keep the bolt in.
If your fuel line is in the way disconnect it,
also remove the plug wires from the cover.
#19
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Sometimes you have to get the cam cover out of the way to get to one of the Hall sensor bolts.
Sometimes you have to get the Hall sensor out of the way to get the cam cover off.
Sometimes either will come off in any order.
It varies car-to-car.
If you can not get an Alan bit on, square, using a series of extensions so that you have room for your hand and tool on the firewall-side of the shock tower without the corner of the cam cover in the way...
... then your screwed. You'll either be doing a timing belt or a cam cover job.
Sometimes you have to get the Hall sensor out of the way to get the cam cover off.
Sometimes either will come off in any order.
It varies car-to-car.
If you can not get an Alan bit on, square, using a series of extensions so that you have room for your hand and tool on the firewall-side of the shock tower without the corner of the cam cover in the way...
... then your screwed. You'll either be doing a timing belt or a cam cover job.
#20
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If they are a decade old then, yes, you really should replace all 18 gaskets and the two o-rings for the breather elbows.
However, if you are not going to change the gaskets then don't remove the cover, just get the bolts out and move the cover just enough to get to the Hall sensor bolt.
If you are going to remove the cover then you need to remove the air pump diverter valve assembly and the bracket that clamps the LH harness to the head at the back. After doing a search for cam covers and reading those threads.
#21
Banned
Wish I would have known this when I did mine on my 89 last winter. Not looking forward to changing it...
#22
Did mine a year or so ago and removed the cam cover as it was leaking anyway. It was a PTA. I would say you can feel a bit better performance once done.
As others have mentioned try using a ball ended allen key. You may be able get to it at an angle. Get a decent set of metric, long ball ended keys. My recollection was 5mm but I could be wrong. Even with the cam cover removed I found the long ball ended key useful.
Mike
As others have mentioned try using a ball ended allen key. You may be able get to it at an angle. Get a decent set of metric, long ball ended keys. My recollection was 5mm but I could be wrong. Even with the cam cover removed I found the long ball ended key useful.
Mike
#23
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
FWIW: I was able to get both bolts out from the top side using a number of extensions and a 1/4" 4mm allen bit. with the cam cover in place I could not get square on the upper bolt and manage to strip it out. made a second attempt with a torx bit, and stripped it further. i was able to get a narrow 18" long chisel on the head of the bolt, and with a few hammer taps, it broke free
now, should i replace with the same socket head allen bolts, or with std hex head, or phillips machine screws?
now, should i replace with the same socket head allen bolts, or with std hex head, or phillips machine screws?
#24
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Hex-head bolt will make it more difficult to get a tool on it squarely.
Just replace the Allen bolts.
#25
Three Wheelin'
I am doing this same job across the upcoming holidays.
This entire thread has been like a tutorial.
Thanks for all the contributions.
Thank you Merchauser and others.
Worf928 "your karma debt will never be paid-off"
I have to remember this
This entire thread has been like a tutorial.
Thanks for all the contributions.
Thank you Merchauser and others.
Worf928 "your karma debt will never be paid-off"
I have to remember this