Car runs hot, test data. Bad sender?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Car runs hot, test data. Bad sender?
87 S4, Gauge reads higher than normal.
New 190d thermostat installed.
Fans juuuust start to come on quietly at this observed temperature, various heat gun locations noted as well. Things are warm but not “hot”.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/288046.../shares/tF8r66
I don’t think I’m chasing down a fan, thermostat, or radiator issue any more.
New 190d thermostat installed.
Fans juuuust start to come on quietly at this observed temperature, various heat gun locations noted as well. Things are warm but not “hot”.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/288046.../shares/tF8r66
I don’t think I’m chasing down a fan, thermostat, or radiator issue any more.
#2
Rennlist Member
We’ve had a discussion about 928 gauges before...an autozone capillary temp gauge tells the actual story in a few short minutes. Your factory sender is a metric thread, and the capillary gauge comes with a npt adapter. The npt adapter screws very loosely into the metric port of the water bridge so just wrap it with a few layers of pipe tape and the bridge threads will be fine.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...l#post14320544
I found that my factory temp gauge going into the red zone was a bit “alarmist” once I knew the actual water temp. I stand by my position that the factory gauges with their associated connections, voltage fluctuations, and vague markings are novelty items in place of real instruments.
We routinely use a dVM to see that 11v on the volt gauge means 13v at the alternator...sometimes. Continue the methodology with coolant temp. Good luck ..you’ve done a lot of great work on your car.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...l#post14320544
I found that my factory temp gauge going into the red zone was a bit “alarmist” once I knew the actual water temp. I stand by my position that the factory gauges with their associated connections, voltage fluctuations, and vague markings are novelty items in place of real instruments.
We routinely use a dVM to see that 11v on the volt gauge means 13v at the alternator...sometimes. Continue the methodology with coolant temp. Good luck ..you’ve done a lot of great work on your car.