elgy

Since I bought my '78 euro the steering has always had a slight resistance to turning, most annoying when going straight when the small adjustments to the trajectory need more input than normal. I thought at first it was a mechanical problem like a rusty universal joint, but with the front wheels in the air and engine off the steering is as smooth as one would expect.

The tires have no unusual or uneven wear so I deduct that the alignment was OK when I bought the car. So I now suspect that the problem is hydraulic and that it is time to see to the steering rack.

Recently I changed the original aluminum ball joints to steel so I know that I have to have the alignment done now. I have driven the car around town since the ball joint change and the steering feel hasn't changed so the ball joints weren't the problem.

So...
1) Might an alignment solve the original resistance problem?
2) Can the rack be changed (or removed and replaced) without disturbing the alignment? (If so I will get it aligned now to see if that helps then do the rack during the winter, if not I will wait till after the rack has been seen to).
3) I have just finished rebuilding the rack on my 924S (same as a 944) and that wasn't too difficult. The 928 rack looks to be a lot more complicated. Anyone out there that has done both 944 and 928 who can compare the experiences?
Thanks in advance.

Mrmerlin

best bet get a rebuilt rack I suggest either 928 INTL or Roger@928srus. Both provide good return for investment.

Whenever messing the steering rack its a good idea to replace the rack boots and tie rods. this way you will get maximum life from the steering system.

The other possibility is that the rag joint is locking up this joint can be replaced with the rack installed but its easier if you drop the rack.

When messing with the rack its a good idea to refresh the reservoir hoses,
always use new banjo sealing washers you need 4.
As always an alignment should be done when done working on the front end and the car has been driven 50 miles to settle the suspension.

NOTE its also a good idea to replace the front/ rear shocks if they are old to restore proper performance to the car

wpgshark

Do you have the original wheels? The wrong offset in the front makes steering more difficult.

Has the rack been rebuilt in the past? If the pinion is put in indexed wrong the rack has a lot more resistance.

Have you flushed your fluid?

elgy

I normally run 18" Rupp wheels (see my avator) but also have 16" phonedials. No difference with the phonedials installed.
I have no idea if the rack has been rebuilt and I have not flushed, if I am going to do that I will at least do a rebuild of the rack first.

Mrmerlin

NOTE if you have an original rack and/ or have not rebuilt a rack,
the chances are good you will be ordering a rebuilt rack in about 2 months,
and then getting the alignment redone.

Seen this happen more than a few times,
do a search its been documented on rack rebuilding gone wrong