Rolled the dice: '85 non-runner
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Rolled the dice: '85 non-runner
I've been kicking myself since selling my 5spd '82 competition package back in 2014, and variously lurking about here or perusing Craigslist for a replacement. I few popped up locally, but fell through for various reasons. I even gave some thought to calling the guy I sold mine to and asking if he would be interested in selling it back to me.
About two weeks ago, an '85 5spd popped up on Craigslist out of Rochester, and I called the guy and, long story short, he bought it at auction for a father-son project 8 months ago, and his son up and decided to better himself by moving out and going to college instead.
Now it's in my garage and I'm chomping at the bit to dig in. Debating where to start, but I suppose I better confirm that the valves are good.
Anyway, pics for posterity's sake:
About two weeks ago, an '85 5spd popped up on Craigslist out of Rochester, and I called the guy and, long story short, he bought it at auction for a father-son project 8 months ago, and his son up and decided to better himself by moving out and going to college instead.
Now it's in my garage and I'm chomping at the bit to dig in. Debating where to start, but I suppose I better confirm that the valves are good.
Anyway, pics for posterity's sake:
Last edited by Tony320; 10-22-2017 at 11:01 PM.
#2
Team Owner
nice looks like 8 inch rims on all 4
#3
Three Wheelin'
Hey and welcome back!
looks like a pretty solid S3!
generally unmolested non runner — hoping something easy to be done and you are good to go.
Did the PO get into it all? Any back story?
Looks like some maintenance was done (ignition wires), intake appears to have a powder coat job or respectable rattle can finish. Air tubes look very good as well.
Best, Dave.
looks like a pretty solid S3!
generally unmolested non runner — hoping something easy to be done and you are good to go.
Did the PO get into it all? Any back story?
Looks like some maintenance was done (ignition wires), intake appears to have a powder coat job or respectable rattle can finish. Air tubes look very good as well.
Best, Dave.
#4
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Hey and welcome back!
looks like a pretty solid S3!
generally unmolested non runner — hoping something easy to be done and you are good to go.
Did the PO get into it all? Any back story?
Looks like some maintenance was done (ignition wires), intake appears to have a powder coat job or respectable rattle can finish. Air tubes look very good as well.
Best, Dave.
looks like a pretty solid S3!
generally unmolested non runner — hoping something easy to be done and you are good to go.
Did the PO get into it all? Any back story?
Looks like some maintenance was done (ignition wires), intake appears to have a powder coat job or respectable rattle can finish. Air tubes look very good as well.
Best, Dave.
When I fine the car, I run the Carfax and it registers last at 69k miles. Title checks out, it’s not reported stolen or rebuilt. It’s originally a Florida car, but came to Minnesota in 1996, and has had 4 reported owners, though some of the documentation I find in the car make me believe some of these owners are dealers (more on this later).
So I get there for my inspection. It doesn't run. The key is missing. Title is there and clean. Hmmm. I look a little closer. Belly pan is still in place. Ok, interesting. Jump post cover? Check. Timing belt? Still intact. Rubber hoses look good and aren’t cracked. Wiring looms look unmolested, and in substantially better than my ’82’s ever was. Clutch pedal goes straight to the floor and stays there. Brakes stop the car when rolled in neutral. Guy has drained the gas and run a bunch through the system by disconnecting the lines and jumping the pump. That’s the full extent of what he did with it. Hmmm.
On the interior, passenger seat is pristine. Rears are the same. Driver looks good except the actual seat where your butt would go. That’s gone south, as seen in the pics. It’s damp. It rained last night and I can see that there was a slight drip from the front driver side part of the sunroof. Ok then. On to the exterior. Someone apparently tried to silicone seal the sunroof shut. Derp. Alright, I can live with fixing that. The hood has a little fading on one side. The front and rear bumper covers have some flaws that need touched up. I can handle that. Rub strips too. Thankfully, the main body is in good shape, with no filler and solid body lines.
Now, it’s time to dig a little deeper and I find a tow receipt from 2009 under the front seat. Seems like it got towed and never ran again after that, which his semi-speculation based on the various receipts mail, and scraps of letters I find lodged in every nook and cranny. But hey, I have the name of the previous owner. What the hell, I’ll chance it. We negotiate and I tow it home.
Fast forward to this weekend. I dropped in a new battery and grab my key, fresh in from the Porsche dealer, and turn the ignition. Light come on. Everything seems to work, except the rear hatch, which is stuck, and the passenger window. I wonder…. Will it turn over? I put a wrench on the crank bolt and turn. It turns easy. Well that’s good to know.
Now, it’s time to swap the belt, flush the fluids, and check the panel in the passenger footwell. I don’t have the belt or fluid on hand, but I do have a few extra relays. Some hours later, I’ve replaced the starter relay and fuel pump relay, and broken the socket for the intermittent wiper relay. Well, maybe not broken, but it’s definitely loose. Now I’m out of time and back to daddy duty. Oh well, I have 14 more years before the little girl can drive it anyway.
#6
Burning Brakes
When I bought mine it was also a non-runner.
Did several things you listed but in the end jumped the three critical relays and it came to life. Strange part was putting those same relays back it didn't recreate the problem, but I did replace them and carry spares, and a jumper just in case.
Did several things you listed but in the end jumped the three critical relays and it came to life. Strange part was putting those same relays back it didn't recreate the problem, but I did replace them and carry spares, and a jumper just in case.
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#8
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When I bought mine it was also a non-runner.
Did several things you listed but in the end jumped the three critical relays and it came to life. Strange part was putting those same relays back it didn't recreate the problem, but I did replace them and carry spares, and a jumper just in case.
Did several things you listed but in the end jumped the three critical relays and it came to life. Strange part was putting those same relays back it didn't recreate the problem, but I did replace them and carry spares, and a jumper just in case.
On the one hand, if I start it now, I'll be able to run a leakdown test on the thing and check it out. If it doesn't run, or runs poorly I'll know if I need to pull the motor. If the belt skipped a tooth. the damage has probably already been done. If not, i risk damage.
#9
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From where the T Belt is tracking on the Cam gears, the T belt system is in need of service (running close to front edge on 1-4) If I read that pic correctly.
When turning by hand does the belt move?
Suggest removing the T belt covers and inspect tracking and Timing marks before trying to start her, then if all is good, disco fuel pump fuse (#42), pull all plugs and do a comp test.
This way you won't waste your time doing a Belt job w/ bent valves
Dave K
When turning by hand does the belt move?
Suggest removing the T belt covers and inspect tracking and Timing marks before trying to start her, then if all is good, disco fuel pump fuse (#42), pull all plugs and do a comp test.
This way you won't waste your time doing a Belt job w/ bent valves
Dave K
#12
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From where the T Belt is tracking on the Cam gears, the T belt system is in need of service (running close to front edge on 1-4) If I read that pic correctly.
When turning by hand does the belt move?
Suggest removing the T belt covers and inspect tracking and Timing marks before trying to start her, then if all is good, disco fuel pump fuse (#42), pull all plugs and do a comp test.
This way you won't waste your time doing a Belt job w/ bent valves
Dave K
When turning by hand does the belt move?
Suggest removing the T belt covers and inspect tracking and Timing marks before trying to start her, then if all is good, disco fuel pump fuse (#42), pull all plugs and do a comp test.
This way you won't waste your time doing a Belt job w/ bent valves
Dave K
#14
Rennlist Member
#15
Team Owner
all the wheels pictured have a bevel at the spoke hole transition the 7 inch wheels dont have this, they are flat
I will guess the valves are OK
I will guess the valves are OK