Replacing tensioner pads, replace chains as well?
10-12-2017, 08:58 AM
#46
Seth, if you choose to pull the engine, which at this point i think you should for the head gaskets alone. I'll toss in the rear main and front main seal installer tools with the rest of them.
I swear, we are going to start calling you Dwayne the II with how detailed your threads are.
I swear, we are going to start calling you Dwayne the II with how detailed your threads are.
10-12-2017, 10:28 AM
#47
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
No worries. there is certainly a significant amount of time and effort, not to mention expense, if you were to walk down this path. One thing to note. It is possible to pull the heads without removing the engine. Not the most convenient and perhaps not the smartest way to go about the job. But, it is possible.
The 85-86 32Vs have studs and that makes it almost impossible to remove the heads with the engine in the car. I said almost because with some unusual methods there is a way to pull them. Did it twice on mine but the service manual states to pull the engine.
10-12-2017, 10:47 AM
#48
Rennlist Member
10-12-2017, 01:02 PM
#50
10-12-2017, 03:25 PM
#51
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Some of the late '86.5 engines had head bolts and not studs. You might take a look, since if you have bolts, the heads can be removed with the engine in the car.
Head stud "issues" are one of the worst things we fight. It's a nightmare. I hope you have bolts.
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greg brown
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Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
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greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
10-12-2017, 03:28 PM
#52
I wondered when the slippery slope would stop....or if it should. The head gaskets I've been seeing are absolutely terrible and if I was this far, I'd probably suggest to the client to take the heads off.
Some of the late '86.5 engines had head bolts and not studs. You might take a look, since if you have bolts, the heads can be removed with the engine in the car.
Some of the late '86.5 engines had head bolts and not studs. You might take a look, since if you have bolts, the heads can be removed with the engine in the car.
10-12-2017, 03:44 PM
#53
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
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10-12-2017, 04:02 PM
#54
10-12-2017, 04:05 PM
#55
Back to the topic. Yes I would do the chains and pull the heads. And while your that far just pull the engine. 
And glad to see my old tools getting good use.
Keep it up Seth.
And glad to see my old tools getting good use.
Keep it up Seth.
10-12-2017, 05:08 PM
#56
That's an S4 isn't it?
The 85-86 32Vs have studs and that makes it almost impossible to remove the heads with the engine in the car. I said almost because with some unusual methods there is a way to pull them. Did it twice on mine but the service manual states to pull the engine.
The 85-86 32Vs have studs and that makes it almost impossible to remove the heads with the engine in the car. I said almost because with some unusual methods there is a way to pull them. Did it twice on mine but the service manual states to pull the engine.
Yup, that is an S4. I can imagine removing the heads with studs would be more of a challenge.
My apologies to you Seth for opening this can of worms. I went through the same issue with my "top end refresh." It hurt a bit when the cost was double my planned budget but I achieved a comfortable numbness when it passed by 3X.
10-12-2017, 05:15 PM
#57
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10-12-2017, 05:16 PM
#58
Rennlist Member
Are there any "tells" that you have bolts? How much disassembly is required to know? I'm curious because I have an '86.5 (last VIN digits are 2481) and I really don't want to pull the heads either way, but obviously I'm going to have to at some point, and from what everyone is saying, that point is likely to not be far away...
I wondered when the slippery slope would stop....or if it should. The head gaskets I've been seeing are absolutely terrible and if I was this far, I'd probably suggest to the client to take the heads off.
Some of the late '86.5 engines had head bolts and not studs. You might take a look, since if you have bolts, the heads can be removed with the engine in the car.
Head stud "issues" are one of the worst things we fight. It's a nightmare. I hope you have bolts.
Some of the late '86.5 engines had head bolts and not studs. You might take a look, since if you have bolts, the heads can be removed with the engine in the car.
Head stud "issues" are one of the worst things we fight. It's a nightmare. I hope you have bolts.
10-12-2017, 05:23 PM
#59
Rennlist
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....People need to realize that no where in the engineering design specifications for the head gaskets was written:
"Paper based gasket must last for over 30 years, while soaking in acidic coolant."
10-12-2017, 05:45 PM
#60
Rennlist Member
Seth,
When I was preparing my current steed I used the motor from my late 90 S4. /That was 15 years old at the time and of course I had the engine out of the wrecked chassis. I had a couple of bent valves on No7 inlet so that head had to be removed. Nonetheless I pulled both heads and did the crank seals and was well pleased with the peace of mind it gave.
I found a little bit of corrosion on the wall of the water jacket that we sealed up but other than that it was perfect. Given where you are at and the prowess you have shown to date, I reckon you could have the engine out and heads off in less than a day. Do the head gaskets and chances are they will be fine for another 20 plus years. The other point is that if you do have anything festering away it will be quite apparent and probably cost a lot less to deal with now rather than when something gives.
Your pics suggest you have studs so the engine has to come out. Given you are now entering the winter season [doubtless mild where you are?] it must be worth considering doing this given the propensity of these things to fall apart.
Your call of course- you have been most wise in your approach to date. I dare say you can hire an engine crane and stand for a few bucks.
Chance favours the prepared mind!
When I was preparing my current steed I used the motor from my late 90 S4. /That was 15 years old at the time and of course I had the engine out of the wrecked chassis. I had a couple of bent valves on No7 inlet so that head had to be removed. Nonetheless I pulled both heads and did the crank seals and was well pleased with the peace of mind it gave.
I found a little bit of corrosion on the wall of the water jacket that we sealed up but other than that it was perfect. Given where you are at and the prowess you have shown to date, I reckon you could have the engine out and heads off in less than a day. Do the head gaskets and chances are they will be fine for another 20 plus years. The other point is that if you do have anything festering away it will be quite apparent and probably cost a lot less to deal with now rather than when something gives.
Your pics suggest you have studs so the engine has to come out. Given you are now entering the winter season [doubtless mild where you are?] it must be worth considering doing this given the propensity of these things to fall apart.
Your call of course- you have been most wise in your approach to date. I dare say you can hire an engine crane and stand for a few bucks.
Chance favours the prepared mind!
