Guys running 18" 996 Turbo Twists. What are you doing in the front...
#6
Three Wheelin'
That's what I did with my dust caps for my 18" Panamera wheels and its worked for me and many others. I had 17" turbo twists before that. Not sure if specific offsets or certain concave/convex center of the wheel projections make a difference, it probably shouldn't, but I don't know. I'll leave that to the experts to follow up on.
#7
Three Wheelin'
Clarification: We didn't beat the hell out of the cap, we just adjusted the depth with a BFH until they fit without disturbing the bearings underneath and the center cap would fit.
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#10
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Either remove the S4-style dust caps and have them cut down until they're low profile enough to fit, or get a pair of the GTS style dust caps, which are lower profile to start. 928 341 684 00.
#11
Team Owner
other option cut the inner seating cap off,
use a grinder on the 3 swaged pins,
then use clear silicone to glue the cap into the wheel.
NOTE the bearing cap will need to be tapped into the hub to fit, but not much.
The center cap will come out with the handle of a hammer from the rear if its needed to be removed,
use a grinder on the 3 swaged pins,
then use clear silicone to glue the cap into the wheel.
NOTE the bearing cap will need to be tapped into the hub to fit, but not much.
The center cap will come out with the handle of a hammer from the rear if its needed to be removed,
#12
Drifting
You can cut the caps; I had to do that for my HRE wheels.
#13
Rennlist Member
Rob, stupid question: in this photo, are you installing/seating the bearing cap, or are you depressing the center of the cap for more clearance of a wheel center cap?
Thanks.
#14
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Seth --
That's a precision cap installer.
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I cut about 5mm from the inner side of the metal cap, so it could be pushed in a little deeper into the hub. Remove the cap and clean it thoroughly. Using a pencil laying on its side on the benchtop, and the cab hub-side down next to it, mark a line around the outside by turning the cap with the pencil against it. The with a hacksaw, cut to the inside edge of the line. I put the cap in a soft-jawed vise to do this, cut some then rotate, repeat until done. Dress the cut edge with a file and you are good to go.
The shortened cap needs to spin clear of the end of the spindle, else risk wear particles inside in your bearing grease. I gently tapped mine in (wooden block and a small hammer) until I could feel/hear it rub when I turned the hub by hand. Take a measurement or place index marks (sharpie) around the mating edge, then tap the cap back out slightly so you can see metal inside of the sharpie mark.
That's a precision cap installer.
---
I cut about 5mm from the inner side of the metal cap, so it could be pushed in a little deeper into the hub. Remove the cap and clean it thoroughly. Using a pencil laying on its side on the benchtop, and the cab hub-side down next to it, mark a line around the outside by turning the cap with the pencil against it. The with a hacksaw, cut to the inside edge of the line. I put the cap in a soft-jawed vise to do this, cut some then rotate, repeat until done. Dress the cut edge with a file and you are good to go.
The shortened cap needs to spin clear of the end of the spindle, else risk wear particles inside in your bearing grease. I gently tapped mine in (wooden block and a small hammer) until I could feel/hear it rub when I turned the hub by hand. Take a measurement or place index marks (sharpie) around the mating edge, then tap the cap back out slightly so you can see metal inside of the sharpie mark.