Carl Fausett

Commercial-quality hub stands for working on your Porsche.

All-steel construction, with camber and toe alignment aides built in.
Tough baked on Powder-coat finish.

Fits all 928's and many other models.

For the 928: designed to facilitate pulling down your 928 to the proper ride height with a ratchet strap so that you can do your alignment correctly.

https://928motorsports.com/parts/hub_stand.php

Carl Fausett

The use of a grease plate when performing alignment adjustments is always recommended so the plate or tool can move freely. This is common with all alignment tools, the tire or the tool must be able to move freely to get accurate readings.

Camber: there is a flat steel surface perfectly parallel with the hub mounting surface so that you can attach a magnetic bubble-level type camber tool and get direct readings of the Camber. We have found many times the wheel bearing cap gets in the way, and the camber tool does not sit correctly flat on the hub as a result. This solves that problem.

Toe: The toe bars allows placement of the tape measures at the outer diameter of the tire, allowing direct reading of toe right off the tape.

On some cars, like the 928, Porsche recommends pulling the car down to a certain ride height before performing the alignment. Simply connect a nylon ratchet strap to each of the front hub stands (a hook area has been provided to the inside of the hub stand for this), and pull the car down with it until the correct ride height is attained before proceeding.

When using these hub stands as jack-stands to work on the car, do not place a grease plate beneath them.

Carl Fausett

I will have pictures of these stands on a 928 performing an alignment later this week.

Carl Fausett

The car that I am supposed to do an alignment on (and I was going to show pics of the hub stands in use during this) is now coming Monday instead of today. So... Monday for pics!

karl ruiter

Wow, very nice Carl. I am surprised the pricing is so reasonable. My first thought was that I would have to start saving, but not really the case. If you don't supply the camber gauge, can you post a link please? I have tried doing DIY alignments before and have never been able to get much precision due to measuring on the outside of the tires. Could they could also be used to tune the alignment on the rear?

Carl Fausett

Thank you, Karl. Yes, we were able to bring these in quite a bit lower in price than others on the internet, and our load carrying capacity is greater.

The magnetic hub-mounted Camber tool I show in my picture is a Longacre product. There are other brands too of course. Here is the link:
http://www.longacreracing.com/products.aspx?itemid=1708

Yes, you can also use these stands and the same tools to do the alignment in the rear. I will be doing a 928 alignment on Monday and will be posting pics of it.

dr bob

[Double-posted with Carl...]

That gauge looks a lot like the Longacre 78620 bubble gauge. That one has a 3" diameter magnet mounting as Carl shows in his picture.

I bounce back and forth between using a bubble level (with spacers) and a digital angle gauge that has claimed 0.1º accuracy. Turns out the commonly-available digital gauges have a display limited to 0.1º resolution but aren't repeatable enough to say they are that accurate. Caster is a bit of a challenge to get perfect with the digital gauge because of that. I recommend that you use the bubble version that Carl shows. Note also that the magnetic base requires that you attach it to the steel stand as shown, or to the brake rotor face. The aluminum hub on the 928 is a no-go with the magnet mounting. It also doesn't attach directly to my aluminum alignment fixtures.

Standing by for the pictures.

Alan

Carl - given the hub stands are welded presumably at exactly 90 degrees to the base plate - doesn't that mean camber measurements at anything other than a 0 camber angle add significant extra loading to the wheels due to the base plate friction & lever arm? There is no compliance here as you get with rubber right?

Just seems to me this would be an issue...?

I could imagine that a small (<1/2") longitudinal roller under the center of the base plate for just the wheel you are adjusting would relieve this load during adjustments?

If so it would seem you'd need a way to raise the whole hub stand to install it to avoid unloading the suspension? Issue or not?

Alan

Carl Fausett

....answers coming soon Alan...

Carl Fausett

Here are some pictures of the hub stands in use. This batch is when used only as replacements to jack-stands.

Benefits include:

• supporting the vehicle where it is meant to be supported
• more room beneath the car, no jack stands in the way
• safer than jack stands - car cannot fall off wheel hub stands
• places the center of the hub 17" off the floor

.

Carl Fausett

These pictures show the hub stand in use as an alignment aide for camber and toe measurements. We added a 1/2" rubber pad beneath the two rears in these pictures because I was adjusting rear camber.

Because I was also adjusting toe, the rubber pad was placed atop the normal grease pad to allow the wheel to move freely.

At - 1/2 degree rear camber, (factory spec) the hub stand sat well upon the rubber pad and the very small tilt of the base plate could be seen.

BIMMERMIKE

Am I missing something? Don't you need to lift vehicle to put stands on?
How is suspension settled?

Carl Fausett

Here you go: we designed a hook loop in the back so you could use a ratchet strap to pull the car down to the proper ride height before adjusting the suspension like this.

AO

Good catch. Don't see how this could readily be used for 928 front end alignments. Cool concept and probably good for other models - just not ideal for a 928.

Just re-read Carl's OP where he states to use a ratchet strap to pull the car down... Still not sure how well that would work or to what height one would need to pull it down to.

Alan

Carl,

The ~45 degree pull down angle is non-optimal, seems a hole at the very bottom of that diagonal brace would get a slightly better angle & avoid upward slippage, a further extension inwards for the pull down point would also help the orientation?

A brace between the two opposed stand bases would also seem like a good idea while pulling this down. Once you have pulled it down once - it would be good to be able to reconfigure between Toe/Camber/Caster? without raising the car again - e.g. by being able to jack the Hub Stand not the car? possible?

I do think its a good general idea - may still benefit from a few tweaks - nice thinking though and a reasonable price point...

Alan