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So I had a few questions about a part on car and removal of bell housing from inside engine bay.
Also, I'm posting pics of the two bolts that hold the top portion of the bell housing and my question is what tool works for that gig?Pics would be great or name of tool would also be useful.
Passengers side top bell housing nut. No leverage.
Driver's side top bell housing nut. No leverage as well.
I've always left the bellhousing on and disconnected the torque tube from the bellhousing with my 5-speeds, thus pulled the engine out with the bellhousing attached.
Getting to and loosening/tightening the top torque tube bolts has its own set of challenges though.
You can also get at those bolts with a standard 19mm combination wrench. Put the box end on the bolt and slip the drive end of a 3/4" drive breaker bar into the open end to get enough leverage to break the bolts loose. Once you have them loose they are fairly easy to spin out by hand.
Guys I need HELP! I'm stuck on the removal of engine. I've removed the 4 bolts to bellhousing/engine, two under car that hold the exhaust header/cross pipe together. Removed plate with 6 bolts from flywheel from torque tube as well. Also removed the 8 bolts holding down engine to engine mounts. I hope I'm not missing anymore.
I get engine to lift off from engine mounts with engine hoist but cant seem to disconnect from the bell housing. I see a gap create between engine block and bellhousing, but I can't seem to separate. WSM doesn't seem to cover that part.
The one thought I did have was removing steering rack to get access to engine mount nuts. Remove them, remove mounts and then having more room to play with to remove engine. But that's just an idea.
I do have the WSM but seems to be weak on explaining the specifics.
Did you unbolt the transmission mounts and move the transmission and torque tube back per the instructions in the WSM? Did you place a block between the torque tube and the front cross brace per the WSM?
Mike
Never had a concern FredR, I was just asking about that part. Very interesting. To cold down fuel.
RV
Ricardo,
The fuel is circulated round the system and thus as it passes through the pump it picks up some heat [pumps are about 70% efficient] and then as it passes through the engine bay it also picks up heat. Some heat should be lost from the fuel tank, especially in cold climates but in hot climates Porsche figured they needed some additional cooling and ran the fuel return line through that little heat exchanger that is cooled by the refrigerant in the a/c system. Porsche probably figured that on a hot day you will likely use the a/c system.
Thus for the chaps who race these things and who do not have the a/c system fitted , I have often wondered how they get on in terms of fuel temperature as gasoline usually starts to boil in the region of 50C. Thus if you hear a bit of a "whoosh" when you open the filler cap chances are the fuel in the tank is a bit hotter than it should be.
For motors that run in hot climes, if there is a problem with the pressure controller and when shut down it leaks fuel, in hot climates the hot fuel will boil in the fuel rail and then the car will not start until the pressure builds in the rail once more.
I've found the best way to assess, and disassemble and repair anything on these cars is to unbuild it in reverse order the car was built in Stuttgart. Engines were not dropped into the car, take a look at the videos on youtube of these cars' assembly. I have, and decided to undertake such action myself to a super steep learning curve absolute quickness of repairs on areas almost out of reach and if in reach usually that reach is around $120.00 an hour and you still will have dirty and grungy underside after being liberated a lot of cash.
Hola amigos, so I was finally able to remove engine out of car this afternoon and yes, I did need the 2 ton engine lift from harbor freight. Reason for that is that I could only take engine out from the driverside fender but needed to pull engine forward since I was limited in space to the side.
Anyways, amazing seeing that 600 lbs of metal raise above the car! I was so nervous seeing it up in the air that high!
But It's out now!
Thank you for everyone that chimed in! I thank you all. And i'm not of course. I already see some parts I have questions about but lets relax for a day and take it it up on Tuesday. Here's a few pictures.
Talk to you soon, like 48 hours soon.
Have a few questions concerning some items on engine, now that its been removed. There are two metal tubing's that connect to each side of the engine, specifically to the header (see pictures) and go up next to air filter box but are capped with a blue plastic end. What are those for and do I need in place?
Also I need to take off timing belt, I will remove bell housing from car and connect to block so I can lock up engine before removing it. But what would be an easy way to compress belt tensioner?
The tubes are for measuring exhaust gasses for CO and HC. You can likely delete them by removing the tubes and capping the ports in the manifold with bearing ball and cap. As SwayBar says, set the crank at 45 BTDC before you lock the crankshaft. Onced lock at 45 BTDC remove the retaining bolt from the crank pulley and remove the pulleys and harmonic balancer from the crankshaft. The idler roller for the tensioner has a place to fit an Allen wrench. Rotate the roller to compress the tensioner until a piece of stiff wire can be inserted through the hole in the tensioner, through the hold in the tensioner pin, and through the hole in the oher side of the tensioner. Now you can remove the timing belt and tensioner. Here is everything you need to know about the PKT-S Tensioner system.
Thanks Ammonman and SwayBar, I was aware about the 45* on crank setting as I did the TB/WP job like a year ago. I just don't have it there yet until I add the bellhousing for me to lock it up.
I was thinking I can maybe lock up the little piston with a 2 mm allen key.
09-22-2017, 09:32 AM
