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Yes, to replace the injection harness you must remove it from the car. To get the engine out you either have to disconnect all the connectors from the engine and unbolt all the P-clamps that hold the harness to the block before laying it over the fender (as was suggested) or disconnect the harness from the CE, EZ-K and LH before feeding it through the firewall. As Jeff said be sure to unbolt the P-clamp from the cross member before pulling the engine. Speaking from experience, plan on at least an hour to get the plugs fed through the firewall if you are by yourself regardless of direction (in or out). The time to do an injection harness refresh is while the engine is out. Not sure you could get the harness changed with the engine in the car. it might be possible if you removed the coolant tank but it would still be a beyotch.
Okay, so after a few hours of soaking in the process and looking at engine bay planning on how to tackle the removal of the harness from the CEP I came up with a few thoughts and wonder what you guys think.
It looks like the passengers side is easier to remove, I see the 4 injectors, one harness above the 3rd injector starting from the front, there's one at the water bridge with a blue connector, another black connector to a 1/2" hose and one that connects right behind and under the big pulley that rotates from timing belt.
The drivers side has way more wires and the thing that is kinda making me wonder of options to remove is the area where the fuel lines meet right behind the MAF. Can I remove fuel lines and the remove all harnesses and when I rebuild wait to install all fuel related parts back on after I ran wire harness?
Okay, so been away for a while. Taking time for myself but now need to continue and so the few little things I've done have turned out to be a good thing. I've found that MAF cable and harness have tears in them. (see pictures I've attached)
The engine harness also has a wire that has been shorted by touching the steering fluid reservoir. Its strange but pictures show that.
Anyways, I'm making some progress but have been a bit blind on what Roger sent me from WSM. Was wondering if anyone has a more detailed breakdown for engine removal for 87 928 S4?
Roger was kind enough to send me the engine removal portion of the WSM after my CD's that I ordered from him didn't work on my PC. But there's some detail that's missing.
Can anyone send me some info please?
Pretty typical findings there. I take it you have also inspected the rest of the engine wiring harness- I guarantee it will be the same as the feed to the ABS and as Tony says, check the main earthing strap at the battery terminal- look under the insulation where the braids meet the terminal.
When I removed the motor from my 91 S4 I removed the plugs from the harness then pushed them through the firewall as I was removing the motor out of the engine bay.
Has anyone else done this before? It worked and made it easier to remove everything off the car. Curious on your thoughts.
I've cleaned that area by battery just recently when I was trouble shooting my issues months ago. Its very clean, but now that i will have the engine out of the bay, I will take my time to clean all ground points in there.
Yes I'm planning on getting wngine harness replaced and getting harness from ECU's to engine maybe repaired or replaced too. I do have issues with MAF wiring and connector as well as another few kinks in it.
I will be replacing all sensors with the exception of MAF, since I have already replaced that one. I'm also going to replace most of the rubber tubing if possible.
I'm hoping that this Saturday I'll have engine out, but let me say this. Wow, Totally amazing how complicated this 30 YO beast is. Porsche is at another level.
So I had a few questions about a part on car and removal of bell housing from inside engine bay.
I removed the part that has the fuel lines connected to the center piece of AC tubing that's wrapped in black insulation that's infront of AC area. It connects to the mainline to AC area. But it also connects two lines that are fuel related to it and I was thrown for a loop. I'll post a pic of the connection.
Also, I'm posting pics of the two bolts that hold the top portion of the bell housing and my question is what tool works for that gig?Pics would be great or name of tool would also be useful.
RV
The part I'm talking about is that foam covered piece between my fingers with the yellow decal.
Passengers side top bell housing nut. No leverage.
Driver's side top bell housing nut. No leverage as well.
09-11-2017, 11:31 PM
