928 Pro Tour LS3 / Z06 Build
 

I bought a 1983 S with 129,000 miles, California car, which I am doing the LS3 / Z06 5 speed conversion on. I own a 1984 928s 5 speed Euro that has been a handful since purchase and is a love hate relationship. I really like the style and handling of the 928 and have done other unconventional 911 builds and decided to venture in on the 928.

I am impressed with the direction and creativity of, 77tony, xschop, Dinsdale, The Fixer, FLYVMO and other builds. I would like to share my build and contribute to the the forum since I am learning from others.

Here is the start.

delete

How is this going to pass the emission inspection? Interesting direction for a clean looking car.

LS3 motor

I would look into this before going any further.

I am not worried about it.

You should be worried !!!! Unless you intend to buy an illegal rat smog no way in hell it is getting registered in California.

I am using the LS3 E-Rod motor, which is specifically designed to meet CA smog. The motor comes with cats and all the other goodies to make it legal. GM designed the package for hot roders in CA.

I have been working on the car for the last month. I purchased a 2002 Z06 6 speed trans and torque tube with supposedly less than 100k miles. I sent the torque tube off to Carl at 928 Motorsports for the conversion. In addition I orderd the Ls conversion from Renegade, who is in communication with Carl to convert the parts accordingly.

Removed motor and drivetrain.

Rebuilt both front and rear suspension with new bushings.

nothing like clean parts!

Agreed, nothing worst than a 30 plus year old grease bucket. I can't count the number of ruin t-shirts.

Rebuilt steering rack.

Used Lizard Skin Sound Insulation and Cearmic (heat insulation) spray on both the firewall and interior. Two coats each and I will install additional layer of adhesive back heat and sound proofing.

Replaced steering shaft rubber donut. Replacement had different insert bushings so had to use stock bushings in new rubber.

Jeez, got to admire a guy who dives in the deep end.

What's the plan for the old Euro engine? Not to be ghoulish...

Decided to delete sun roof, cut out sun roof sheet metal and member UNEEKONE was kind enough to sell me a roof panel and non sunf roof headliner. I spoke with painter / body man to figure out how to weld the filler piece in. I ended up recessing the edges approx 1/16th " so he would have some flexibility making everything blend.

Was going to tig weld, but it wasn't practical, so used mig welder. Lots of tack welds. I will grind and blend the best I can and then leave the rest for the painter to deal with ;)

I am not one that prolongs things nor has a clear direction.

The motor that came out of the 83 conversion build is not the Euro engine.
I will be selling off the the motor, trans and torque tube down the road.
I will be taking all the smog equipment off the motor to use on my Euro car.

Really like where this is going and think you missed Dinsdale Pirhana in OP credits. ..subscribed :thumbup::thumbup: T

Received some of the parts from Renegade for LS swap. Installed the fly wheel, pilot bearing, clutch, pressure plate and bell housing. Hoping to get motor mocked up this weekend.

Now the pressure is on. :bowdown:
I Have read your thread numerous times and just love the detail that went into your build. People can appreciate the quality of your build, but until they have actually invested the time, sweat, research and money into a build of your stature, it is very hard to comprehend.
My goal is to come up just short of your build:cool:

I realized that and added right before you mentioned it....my apologies to Dinsdale, the Guru of 928 mods......absolutely love the Toyota 12

The only rust I have found on the car was in the battery box. I cut the bottom pan out and fab a new stronger one.

Built front frame stiffener and solid steering mounts. Will make some derlon washers to match over all stock length of steering rack bushings

Sourced Aero mirrors and purchase base from Roger.

I'll always follow a clean build like this. The LS is a great motor- shame CA choked it down on you, but shouldn't matter that much. Beautiful!

Any chance you would be interested I building second frame stiffener? I would be interested.

Are the suspension parts media blasted or painted? They look great.

Hi Michael,
My plate is full right now,otherwise I would help you out. Carl at 928 motorsports makes and sells the cross support. I have done this on most of my builds, so chose to make myself.

I have my own bead blast cabinet, so do myself. I clear coat in a high temp spray can by Rust-Oleum, it resists oils and high temps. Your suppose to bake after spraying to harden, but it will harden on its own after a few few weeks. It is a cheap alternative to powder coating.

Made front sway bar adjustable links. Used both left and right hand thread hiem joints, for simple adjustment.

Installed front suspension.
New Koni adjustable struts, new stock rotors, rebuilt calipers, new bearings, new brake lines.

So I am starting to see my lack of knowledge and reasearch. I purchased RH AG Cup wheels that showed them on a 928. I reached out to Carl (928 MS) to ask about fitment. Carl said rears would most likely fit, but fronts are questionable. I pulled the trigger on the purchase.
Now that I have the front suspension on, I put the front wheel on. The wheel hits the upper arm when full turn inwards. I could probably add spacers for clearance, but this will add a new issue of sticking past the fender. I guess I will figure out a little further down the road.
Front wheels are 18 x 8.5 offset 56mm, lip 1.5"......Rears are 18 x 10 offset 54. With 2"lip

Was not provided any maintenance history on the car. So far everything has looked like it was well maintained, but I am replacing key items that are easier to replace now than later. Just replaced the master brake cyclinder, brake power booster, clutch slave cyclinder and clutch hose.

This is a great build to watch. Got my attention.

:corn:

There should be nothing wrong with your front wheels.

Not sure checking for clearance with the suspension off the ground [fully extended] has realistic meaning.

Mad skills....love it...keep pics coming...and thanks for sharing.

I am happy to hear you say that. I put the wheels on at the end of a long day and a few beers. This morning I took another look and realized there is no steering rack on and I turned the wheel way past what the steering box would allow.
Thanks

The modified oil pan showed up, so decided to install. What should have taken 15 minutes ended up taking over an hour. The new low profile pick up tube did not have one thing that didn't need massaging. The flange with o' ring had to be ground down for clearance, the tab that bolts on to splash pan had to be reshape for clearance and bolt hole in large. The tube hit the splash pan, so had to remove and grind clearance. The pickup tube also hit the dip stick tube, so pulled tube and shorten. Another issue I noticed is the stock oil pan covers the fly wheel/cutch. The new pan does not cover the area.

Hit a mile stone today. Drilled 5/8" hole is engine cross member and bolted engine in. The only issue I have, is I bought the wrong accessory bracket kit. The alternator should be on the bottom side of the motor. I have seen pictures of other LS conversions that have Alt. on top, it looks like you just need to cut the bracket for power steering line off wheel well and then it will fit (tight)

So here is the open fly wheel area after changing oil pans. I roughed up a piece of sheet metal that will bolt to the back oil pan bolts and bottom bell housing. I need my starter to see how that attaches to shape the piece accordingly. I am curious what other people have done.

love the fire wall. what did you use?

I used Cool It by Thermo Tech. Self adhesive backing and has a woven material.

Sweet build, subscribed. I have most all the parts to do this same swap, but am planning to just have the corvette torque tube shortened so no adapters.

Seems like the logical approach, not sure why they shorten the TT and then add the metal adapter. There must be a reason though.

Hmmm... we have a Tremec T56 6-speed kit for those 928's equipped with a Renegade LS or SBC swap; and we lengthen the TTube and driveshaft to get rid of those adapters when we do it. We are making one of these for Blagave right now.

Hi Carl,

I am confused then. Travis sent me the metal adapter that bolts on the Bell housing....is this wrong?

Bell housing / adapter

SpearLazyT....just spoke with Carl and my setup is as you indicated.....torque tube to bell housing. Travis at renegade missed something along the way. I will be removing the adapter plate.

Damn Lance! I thought you were just shaving the sunroof! You're going all in! When do you sleep???

Steve

It just looks like a lot is getting done, its all smoke and mirrors.

The bracket setup you are referring to is used on the F-body cars. 1998-2003? Camaro/Trans-am etc.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/98-06-LS1-Ca...pV3D9~&vxp=mtr
If you needed it. Best of luck with your build!

Thank you for the information. I was told the same thing from a friend and ordered the bracket for both the Alt. and pwr steering from Ici billet
http://www.ictbillet.com/ls-camaro-a...s6-billet.html
:cheers:

Pulled motor out to remove bell housing and adapter. Going to send back to Renegade, since Carl is making the toque tube bolt on to stock bell housing, which came with the trans I purchase.
I installed new hi torque starter and finished up the dust shield..

Welding in the holes for where the the rubber spoiler bolted on. Also going delete rear wiper and side marker lights. Found some filler on drivers side rear marker, I can't see any damage repair inside well, rear etc. can't imagine Porsche using filler.

Very nice! Am considering the rear wiper delete, but am trying to avoid removing the glass and my sheet metal guy is concerned about welding heat impacting the adhesive. Thoughts? I see you have removed your back glass.
Am also considering the door lock delete, but thin aluminum..

I am by no means a body guy, in fact this is the second time I have ever welded up holes on a body and yes, to much heat will cause distortion in the metal or maybe in this case melting the rubber adhesive. A positive note with mig spot welding, is you can make a quick tack, wait a minute and do another which wont add to much heat, it will take longer, but you should be able to do it. When I fill those holes, I will pay attention to the amount of heat in the area by the window and let you know.

I have been talking with Tony (Peachy) and will be doing similar deletes. The aluminum
will be tricky, but at least with tig welding you can direct the heat and adjust the ramp up.

Excellent project, and amazing attention to detail!!
Subscribed!

Cheers!
Carl

Thank you Carl, You have set a bar that is unreachable
:cheers:

I'd hold on to those until you get my Torque tube for your car. I just got another pair of lengthened TTubes in here, one of these is yours. It is easy to see how much longer they are compared to the stock corvette TTube which is laying beside them.

But, hang on to those Renegade parts just a little longer before you send them back. I know we do not need the steel adapter they sent you, but that aluminum adapter for your throw-out bearing might still prove useful.

TT's look great :D. I will hold on to the Renegade parts until we figure this out. By any chance do you still have all the mock up parts that Renegade sent to you?

I do not. Those have been returned to renegade about a month ago. But I have many pictures if you need something, let me know.

I will have your shifter box mounted in the correct position atop of the Torque Tube before it ships.

:jumper:
Just a reminder if it makes a difference, I purchased the Short Shifter for the C05 Z06

Thanks for documenting all of this

The least I can do since others have already paved the way for people like myself.

I bought some SS headers for another LS3 motor that I am putting twin turbos on and liked them so much I installed on the 928 LS3. The headers stick out from the side of motor a bit more than stock, but I think there is plenty of room in the engine compartment.

Tach welded in some supports where I cut the sun roof frame out and had enough of the lizard skin sound insulation to spray two coats. I have left over cearmic insulation and will spray a couple coats as well.

Those are beautiful

I had Ron Davis make my radiator and had oil cooler built in as well. Radiator drops right in and uses all the stock mounts.

Taking a page from Just Peachy and going to delete the door key lock and install remote door locks. I picked up door lock switches that will fit in console with a little work.

A little premature......Received PPG paint, primer, hardener, clear coat for LS 928 and my Euro.
Going with Porsche color ACHATGRAU #M7S metallic gray on the LS car and same color on the euro, which is Iris Blue # L39N / L39V

Finished up welding in the plugs for rear wiper and rear side markers. I used lowest heat setting on mig and took my time in between tachs and still got distortion in the metal. I am not very good at this and wished I could have seen an expert do it. Those guys who do this on tv or for a living are very good at what they do.

Spearlazy, unless your guy is really good, I would say you need to remove the glass and glazing to do it right. I suppose you could put a few tachs and spray with water, grind down and bondo the rest, but I don’t see a full weld without damage.

Wow, you are on a roll. Nice work for sure. One word of advice, if you weld the door locks (shaved), do NOT use a kevlar reinforced "bondo" or regular "bondo", the aluminum doors need a metal fortified filler at a minimum, that expands and contracts with the substrate. Ideally you want to either tin or led fill instead of using filler. But it requires a very delicate hand and temperature control to not warp the aluminum.

While my painter did a marvelous job on the paint, he was stubborn enough to not listen to me regarding the filler, and 3 months after delivery the outline of the shaved door locks can be vaguely seen in certain light conditions. So he gets to do the job twice...

Keep up the great work. Sent you a PM regarding the drivetrain question.

Cheers!
Carl

Thank you Blagave and Carl for the good tips! Still up in air the regarding the wiper and door lock delete. I would love to do both of them, but may skip them because I don't know the skill of the welder/body guy (a friend of the painter).
Carl, would not have guessed the Corvette torque tube would need to be lengthened.

Thanks to both you and Tony for providing the details on the proper paint prep, this is where people like myself and others going forward get the details from experience that one would over look :cheers:

Decided to try a front fender side marker delete. Front fenders are aluminum, so used tig welder dialed way down. I started with tach welds then added 1/2” welds from side to side with adding shop air to cool down in between welds. After all that, I still got a little distoration. I am hoping to improve on the next fender. Also filled in bolt holes for spoiler.

Not to be a noodge but I had a Cobalt blue and it is - stunning. Do like Iris blue as well. Keep us informed, looking very good.

I bought the Euro car which had a color change to the Iris blue (unknown to me),
The current paint condition is a 7.....looks great at 5’. I just want to have a new coat to make it a 10.

Looks really nice. Lots of great work. I am enjoying your thread.

Thank you, appreciate the kind words.

Really nice! Looks like you had a lot less distortion than on mine. I am envious, the "body man" that did my front marker delete was not as good as he claimed.

Man, color changes on vintage cars are a real pain. I'm contemplating one now. I have a black 88 that is going to be a very nice runner soon. I absolutely hate black with a passion. I've wanted a cassisrot for many years, so I'm thinking of stripping off the front fenders, doors, hatch, and going with Cassisrot. Just leave the engine bay inside black, but all the rest would get new paint.

It's a ****-ton of labor and prep. I might just go back with one of the modern charcoal metallics. They look decent with some pearl and metal in the clear, but it's still a black.

Also, I wish I could find a non-sunroof interior lid, I'd cut out the metal sunroof too.

Chevrolet tucked the back of the engine under the windshield a bit to improved weight bias front/back on the Corvette. Have a look at your next C5 with the hood open and see how far that firewall is dented to allow them to put the motor in that position.

So, when we are making our TTube and driveshaft for a Chevy equipped 928, the stock ZO6 TTube has to be lengthened.

When we are making a TTube and driveshaft for a 928 with a 928 engine and bell, the ZO6 Ttube has to be shortened.

Purchased a bunch of fuel lines and started replacing. Installed gas tank, thinking it is easier now without the trans and suspension on.

Started running oil lines....... Oil pan to remote filter to oil cooler in radiator back to pan. Used all SS braided line with AN fittings, wrapped line near header with heat shield. I am making some aluminum line holders to mount to radiator.

I purchased used RH Cup wheels and wasn’t sure how they would fit. This sizes are, front 8.5x18, offset 56. Rear 10x18 offset 54. I reached out to JP(Tony) and he suggested asking others in the forum. 76FJ55 and FredR were kind enough to proved valuable information in what size tire would fit.
I pulled the trigger buying the wheels at a risk due to the price and condition. The previous owner purchased them with the knowledge they were reconditioned, which they were but weren’t. The wheels had some broken plastic bolts and scratches. I am painting the centers to match the car and I contacted the company and purchased the replacement plastic Allen heads. Bottom line, I took a gamble and I think it paid off. I purchased Kankook V12 tires and went with 285/35-18 rears and they fit with enough clearance without rolling fenders. The fronts I went with 245/40-18 and the tire clears on all axis’s. I think I still need to roll the fenders in order to lower the front and will have to modify the bearing dust cap to get the wheel cover on.
I used my 84 Euro for mock up.

Made aluminum oil line holder. I welded (3) aluminum pieces that I taped with 6mm x 1.00 threads to bottom of radiator frame. The mount holds the lines nicely and bolts on and is easily removeable. Another task checked off the list of many.

I have been looking for the radiator hoses and finally found a perfect match for the 1 1/2” return line. Purchased from NAPA auto parts PN# 708
I ordered a couple upper 1 1/4” hoses and will get tomorrow and hoping one of them fits.

This thread is SO awesome...!
:cheers:

Installed upper radiator hose. Picked a hose out of NAPA catalog and it fits, but going to keep my eyes open for one that either hugs the radiator closer or the power steering reservoir. Part # 8379

Rebuilt rear sway bar and finished up rear adjustable drop links. Because I kept everything metric on the drop links, i had to turn the I.D and O.D of the SS insert for the hiem joints, should have just made alumiunm inserts.

Tackled the electronic throttle pedal mount. I ended up using the stock aluminum 928 casting. I modified the bracket and welded a 3/16th piece of aluminum plate for the throttle assembly to bolt too. It is a very tight fit between the steering column and firewall. The pedal is as high as I can go and still access the hole in the fire wall for electrical cable. If need be, I will cut the steel pedal arm and fabricate to adjust.

Wow! All the things I have to do, I really appreciate this thread and your great pictures and descriptions! Do you have the oil line fitting part number list by chance? I would like to build my oil lines as you have, but haven't cracked the catalog yet.

Mounted the main fuse box for the LS wire harness. There isn’t a lot of options on where to mount. Looked at inside passanger foot well and not enough room. I went with same location as where Dinsdale mounted on JP. The only differences is JP has a Camaro crank,on his LS and I have a corvette, the corvette has the pulley much closer to the block and the alternator is mounted on top. JP is a much better setup for the conversion and allows for more room. My install went fine and everything fits, but I am still looking for a bracket that puts the alt. on the bottom, I think it is a cleaner look and provides more room. I used thread inserts to mount plastic box.

Mounted the ECU in the passenger foot well where the stock computer was mounted.

I buy most of my stuff through Kartek Ihttps://www.kartek.com/
I am a off-road guy and have used them for years.
Remote oil filter (uses a HP6 filter). I ran -10 AN fittings and SS braided line. Fittings are anything from straight to 180. I purchased a tool that makes putting the hose on to the fitting easy and no blood is involved.
Hopes this helps.
https://www.kartek.com/parts/hp6-bil...6-filters.html
https://www.kartek.com/parts/oil-fil...n-hp-5001.html
https://www.kartek.com/parts-categor...-aluminum.html
https://www.kartek.com/parts/xrp-an-...-diameter.html
https://www.kartek.com/parts/koul-to...-xrp-ends.html

I am an off road guy too, am putting a similar engine (LS3 525HP, 8L90, Atlas 3.8) in my chopped '79 Cherokee Chief, hence working through this conversion in my head and vicariously through your build. Too late for your build, and your way is better, but for anyone else that may read this, the fuse box that comes with the GMPP LS3 harness is from an astro van and in that application there is a bracket that bolts to the car and this box snaps in it. You can get it from the dealer.
Am putting the 430HP in my 928 in front of the rebuilt factory auto.
Thank you for the parts listing, did this for the Jeep, but your fittings and hoses are more elegant than mine.

Made aluminum radiator tank. Have a few more bungs to weld on for more lines, but waiting to figure out all the hoses.

Welded in aluminum plugs to delete door locks and decided to delete the door edge lights as well.

Picked up used 1989 928 door lock assemblies. Will switch out with vacuum controlled ones which will allow for electric actuator remote control door locks. The new actuators have the plunger connection 90 degree off fron stock, so I cut the plastic arm and had some aluminum tubing that happened to be perfect fit for the plastic to slide into. I expoxy the piecess back together. I also had to drill out the hole to fit stock pin, sand down thickness so plastic arm would slide over plunger arm.

You are quite the fabricator... nice work thus far!!!!

Thanks for the kind words.

I am constantly learning, which makes it fun.

Made a mount for the emissions canister that comes with the E-Rod motor to meet CA smog. I decided to delete the power antenna and mount in rear driver side wheel well. I will make a new aluminum cover to replace the stock plastic cover.

Moving right along Lance and all looks great. Another option for FM antenna: :thumbup: T

Thanks Tony,
I ordered something similar, but it is a flexible strip. I will either put in headliner, which requires 3/4" separation from the roof or will mount in rear glass area.

Dude, you're doing it backwards. You need the 525hp in the shark


Wow, I am blown away by your skill and attention to detail.
Thanks for sharing. Subscribed.

Lance, That's some smart looking work there. MASSIVE SKILLS DUDE !!!
Couple questions.
How much did you add to the torque tube ?
What kind of coffee do you drink ?
Cheers, Jeff

hi jeff,
great question on the torque tube, I wish I could tell you, but to be honest no one knows
There seems to be some confusion or lack of communication between two parties involved. I am supposed to receive the torque tube on Monday after more than a month delay. The length will either bolt from trans housing to bell housing or will use a aluminum spacer. I thought I was buying a tried and true kit that has already been figured out and installed, but have learned my car will be the first Z06 to LS. I will keep you posted. Lastly, lots of Monster energy drink.

Cheers

Thank you for the kind words.

Well after a long wait, my torque tube and parts showed up today. What started out with a big smile, abruptly ended in frustration. Good old UPS took special care of the torque tube and cracked the bell housing, so now need to source a replacement. Started mounting the aluminum brackets and everything is fitting well so far.

That is such a bummer. Hope you get that figured out. This thread is super awesome

Wow great thread so far. As both a Corvette and 928 buff, I salute your dedication. Subscribed!

Wow- this thing ought to be a screamer! As much as the M28s were a work of art, you can't argue with 30 years of tech advancement. Can't wait to see more.

How was the bellhousing packaged for shipping?

It had foam-in-place packs around the splined end and on both sides of the shifter box. On the major bell ends, it was buried in small-cell bubble wrap. It was taped with 3mm Nitrile packaging tape (tough)!
The Torque Tube did not come out of the box, it suffered an impact injury, as in from a drop or a crushing impact.

I swear, some times it's like they must deliberately drop stuff from 10' up just to see what might happen. There is not explanation for some of these shipping claims.

I am at work now to find Lance a replacement bell. Fortunately, Lance says that the rest of the tube and the driveshaft with splines are undamaged.

bolt a square piece of 1 inch plywood to each end any drops will be taken by the whole part.

this part might be better shipped on a pallet
otherwise that black foam that the part is resting on would be a good first layer of wrapping on the ends ,
you still need the wood IMHO

I have a torque tube for a C6, the bell housing at the transmission looks like it will bolt to my C5 transmission. Let me know if you are interested. Steve

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...04e1b14425.jpg

What kind of actuators are those for the locks?

Thanks Steve for the offer. I think Carl has found one, but if not, We will get back with you.

A1 Electric. They have many actuator kits to choose from. I bought 1989 928 door assemblies per ( Just Peachy & FLYVMO) thread outline.

https://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2...Code=W01F-712T

Steve it looks like your bell housing is welded on. Can you check and see if it welded or if it is bolted on. It should look like the pictures.

Thanks

Your project is going great!! I'm very impressed with the creativity and technical expertise. Given a factory manual and a list of factory part numbers, most people can restore a car, ..... but it takes guts, vision, confidence, and big balls to chop up a car and transform it (correctly) into a whole different mechanical masterpiece. My 78 track car started a radical transformation almost 15 years ago, but your car certainly has mine beat!!

OMFG! "This plastic radiator tank is crap, so I'll just whip one up out of sheet aluminum in my garage in an afternoon."

I officially hate you. :p

Thanks for the kind words, but to be perfectly honest, Dinsdale, 77Tony & FLYVMO have paved the way to make things go much faster and easier for guys like me. The reason for my thread is to give back since I am benefiting from the others.

Ok....made me laugh early in the morning....well done

Lance - I found the right replacement bell housing and it is on its way to you.

Thank you Carl, appreciate the speed in which you handle this.

Mounted the metal trans mount to modified stock aluminum cross member to trans. There are a few steps in attaching the new aluminum mounts to transmission which isn’t to difficult, but drilling the additional bolt holes can be challenging. I used a right angle drill with 1/8th” pilot hole and the then drilled from opposite direction with larger drill. Also, you want to snug all the bolts and attach metal cross member in order to get everything to fit. After fittment, remove cross member and tighten bolts and reattach cross member. I am using a hydraulic motorcycle lift stand to help me raise and lower the trans and torque tube in position. I do 99% of my build by myself, so this helps me out, can’t imagine how the other guys do if without.

Wow. Up until now I was sure my ex-wife was the world's greatest fabricator....

Those are the cleanest work shoes I've ever seen. :)

LOL....I just got these. My wife couldn't stand my garage shoes, which were pretty bad and picked these up...costco specials!!

Well, after a full day and 3 times in and out, I finally got the trans and torque tube in place.
The resason for the drive train going in so many times is to see where it hits the tunnel. You have to bend the heat shield tabs up so the TT will clear. You also need to cut a couple ears off the differential and take a large hammer and pound some clearance in the tunnel. I am doing a rear seat delete so the little intrusion is not an issue in the rear seat area and doubt it would effect the rear seat pads. The differential comes very close to the the battery box and scraped my aluminum cover. Pissed me off so I cut the corner of the battery box out and plasma cut a piece of tubing in half and welded in. You don’t have to do this, I just wanted the clearance.
Still need to hang suspension, the new mounts are very close to the inboard CV flange.

Few more pictures

Looks like it's going to plan! Good work!

Love the assortment of footwear and might be time for a pedi :)

Great job on the install!

Frustration peaking on my build. Received replacement TT housing for cracked one today and it is the wrong one. They sent the bell housing for TT to engine instead of to trans.
Cut notch in tunnel to clear shifter clamp. Made up wire harness on trans for VSS, reverse lockout and reverse lights. Also, modified a battery tray to fit in battery box. Using a Optima red top battery.

Mad skills! Now you have this down pat, will you be doing any conversions for anyone else?

I am a ways off from being done and by no means have it down pat.

I think I will leave the conversions for others to Dinsdale.

I do have some ideas if I were to build another one though. :D

Oh, the brutality!

You should call Heinrich at Scheisco.

He always has 6 and 12 speed kits in stock.

His prices are super low!!!

Free same day delivery too!

Cheers

Your killing me:banghead:

So Dins...

first you ask my customer for the length of my torque tube (post 110)
...and now you advise him to shop elsewhere for "kits in stock" ?

What Gives?

Bad Form, Dins, bad form. If you want to know the correct length of the driveshaft and torque tube for a T56 in a 928 with a LS motor you need to figure that out for yourself, just like I have.

THIS INJUSTICE WILL NOT STAND !
 

carl, carl, carl, carl. Why must you prostrate your self like this on a public forum.
You know as well as I do, that you took Lance's wallet on a fishing trip.

You sold him your stock 6spd kit, some parts he didn't need and had a supplier add 2 inches to a torque tube. Then you grabbed a rosary.
Please remember that pretend R&D doesn't work all the time.

Oh yeah, almost forgot about the coil over parts that had to be turned down on a lathe before the shocks could be assembled. Oh how we laughed!

I could go on, but I think you deserve a chance to correct these problem's. A so called "Do over".

You really should inform your client's of their role as a guinea pig prior to the sale of a kit though. It's the right thing to do.


Now, on to the comment about TT length and a question for Lance.
I wanted to compare your "Shot in the dark" attempt to my completed LS/T56 builds. As i suspected, It was a complete side show to get everything to fit properly. [pretend R&D still doesn't work].
The list of problems with the kit is long. and the skill set and tools needed to install the kit are far beyond even your farmed out skills.

I think I'll stick with my design that uses a stock torque tube.

In closing, here's a few things to remember.
A big ego is often a play toy.
Their's nothing wrong with second place.

I hope you can use this as a learning experience.

Regards Dinsdale

There is no truth in that statement. Lance paid over $2000 LESS for his kit than a customer with a 928 motor would. My prices are PUBLISHED and you are welcome to look them up for yourself. Secondly, I have no need to fish as we have done numbers of these kits and installs before. In addition to the Porsche engined 6-speed kits that we have done; we have already done two Renegade Chevy-to-6-speed kits for the 928 - one for a SBC and 1 for the LS1.

Lance's challenge is that he has neither - he has an LS3 motor and not an LS1. They are close, but not the same. I hate doing R&D from across the country, but Lance is in California and of course could not bring the car here so I could do it hands-on.

Even so, you can see I have my lengths right and the shifter box mounts up right where it should be. We did find out Lance had the wrong pilot bearing, a part we did not supply. Now that he has put in the C5 pilot bearing, it should go right together.

It's a damn shame UPS crushed his bell housing, but as soon as the replacement comes he should be rolling again.

Glad your design is different than mine - I prefer that. Then there should be no issues between us.

Carl.....take another look!! I paid "FULL PRICE" per your web site and I was sold a tried and true system, which it is not. I have been your R&D for the Z06 to LS3 and that is not what I signed up for. In addition, I have spent 20 plus hours configuring the the LS3 to Z06 and have purchased (3) different pilot bearings and broken a engine Bell housing along with massaging your brackets. To be honest, if I knew upfront that this is what I was going to deal with, I would have worked with my guys and made my own conversion. The kit you sold me was not a bolt in and other people contemplating the conversion should know this up front unlike me.
I am pretty capable of making things work and I seriously doubt that most normal auto shops could handle the conversion at this point and seriously doubt a DYI could manage this conversion.

It is not my intention to disrespect anyone, I am just building a car for fun here, but I will not hold back from being honest with what I have received and the way I have been treated.

I have reached out to 77Tony , FLYVMO and Dinsdale, who have all been wonderful sharing there information to help me through the build.

I think 928 MS makes quality parts in there kit, but needs a little refinement on certain pieces. In the end, the product is very good and hopefully will be bolt in for the enthusiasts that takes on the conversion in the future.

Name the wrong part.
 

Today on Name the wrong part we have pictures of common automobile parts supplied by an unnamed Porsche 928 6spd / LS 1 sbc but not LS3 guy.

To verify this we asked the designer of the very very very first 928 6 and 12 speed conversions. Dr. Heinrich Scheisse of Scheisco .

Dr. Scheisse verified , testified, magnified and chicken fried the pictures.
After thoughtful meditation Dr. Scheisse conferred that they were indeed automobile parts and that some of them were incorrect.

Today's pictures have more than one wrong part.
If you can name all of them you WIN!!!!!!

Soooo now that the pictures have been verified let me introduce our first contestant.
His name is Royal Faultless and he's from Horrible Wisconsin.
Royal likes Deer jerky, Elk jerky and Moose jerky. He also dreams of owning a Jerk factory someday.

Sooo Royal, are you ready to play NAME THE WRONG PART?

Made mount for VSS & reverse lockout units. I used the stock battery mount.

I'm sorry you feel that way, Lance.

I advised you at the start that I wished you would bring your car here as we had done the SBC install before and knew the TTube lengths, but had not done an LS1 build without adapters as yet. I wanted to be hands-on, and do this in my shop.

Lance, it was you that said that the LS1 and the SBC were so close to the same that it should work (and later you have also said that the LS1 and the LS3 were the same) and that you wanted to proceed.

I was very forthcoming and told you precisely what we had done before and what we had not. In fact, I called RPM transmissions to research the difference in crank lengths between the SBC motor and the LS1 BEFORE I even took your sale. You don't remember any of this?

I know you WANTED a bolt in kit, but you also wanted an LS3 install into a 928, which just has not been done that many times before, and never by us. That put you beyond the cutting edge of technology and into the bleeding edge instead. It takes work and some fabrication/modification to be out there on the bleeding edge and be the first. That's the way it is.

Thank you for the compliment. And yes, if our LS1 kit is used to install an LS3, some small modifications will need to be made.

Dins -

I have carefully looked at your photo in post 148.

NONE OF THOSE PARTS WERE PROVIDED BY US. Those are all Renegade pieces.
I did not make or sell any of those parts.

Perhaps, before you start calling people names, you should know how to recognize the parts yourself.

Lance purchased a kit from Renegade, and a kit from us. There is overlap and a number of Renegade provided parts that he will not be using. There is nothing surprising with that picture.

The only thing wrong at all is your sophomoric response and name-calling.

Carl, this is the last time I am going to address you in my thread, this is not a 928 MS or Carl advertisement thread.

You only listen to what you want to hear. Everything you just said is false on so many levels.
1. You never advised me on anything. You flat out said that your kit worked with LS3
2. You told me that you worked with Renegade to match up with there conversion kit and said that is what I needed to buy.....I just don’t go buy things for the fun of it. In fact Travis at Renegade said that you never discussed any details with them after they sent you all the mock up parts.
3. You have been down right rude to me on several occasions when asking simple question, like where is my stuff after 8 weeks, when your web site says 4 weeks or less. Or the time you basically called me a liar when I told you I sent the shifter and hardware, but you couldn’t find. Amazing how when I fought back that you figured out that you never opened the box and shipped it to RPM, where it was sitting.
4. Only after my frustration and calling you out on what you told me and sold me did you start sharing the fact you had never done a LS3 to Z06 and how you wished you had a car instead of just mock up parts.
5. It was me speaking with Dinsdale trying to figure out why your configuration did not fit and Dins questioned the pilot bearing. I then spoke with RPM and Jeremy confirmed that I needed to switch the pilot bearing out since you told him the the TT needs to be modified to a LS1
7. I purchased Koni shocks from you and could not get the rear perch’s bolted to the shaft due to your spacer being to long. I asked you numerous times over a week and sent pictures and all you say is follow the directions. Ended up that your spacers were to long and you told me the guy screwed up and I need to throw them in the lathe and cut them down.
8. I purchased steering box rebuild kit and had question on blue o ring. You claim you rebuild the boxes, but come to find out you don’t and you didn’t know if the blue o ring replaces the white Teflon and rubber. I reached out to company who makes the kit and the forum to get clarity.
9. There are other things such as rear drive axles not being ordered or shifter not ordered to find out at week 10 they don’t make it anymore, so have to source another brand.
10. Not cool to have your front page to the instructions asking the customer to provide details and pictures on how to install since you have not done this configuration.

Bottom line is that your customer communication and support are lacking from my experience. If you were completely honest up front with me and I had the option of working the bugs out with you, then I would have had the choice, but instead I had no choice.

Lastly, this hole nonsense was started by you. You did not read Dinsdale reply and only heard what you wanted to hear. Dinsdale reply was a joke relating to the “delete this thread” and the fictional company “Schieisco”, Heinrich is the owner (made up). If you had a sense of humor you would have laughed at 6 and 12 speed in stock and same day delivery.....that is funny stuff

To Blagave:

You are the man. I was just contemplating doing a Z06 conversion to my 79 928 5speed( it was my first car and have refused to sell even after having supercars and hypercars in my garage).

My plan is do a singer type build to my 928. I am now in the sourcing and planning stage, hoping to commence in the next month. My good friend who is a race car builder will be doing all the heavy lifting as after seeing your steps I don't have your Yoda skills.

Thanks for doing this and I hope you keep updating the build progress.

You are a true gentleman.

Scheisco, home of 928 6spd, 12spd and 18spd w/ toe shift kits
 

...

Well, this certainly went sideways.

Lance, you ordered a kit for a LS1, and we set out on that course. It wasn't until about week 3 that you informed me that your LS1 was actually a LS3, but you said "That shouldn't matter, they are basically the same".
You'll remember I told you about the .400" inch difference in the crankshaft lengths between the LS1 and the LS3 several times. I sent you drawings and links to other pages about this.

I reached out to Renegade and RPM Transmissions numbers of times for you to get this to work for you. This picture that you posted shows that my torque tube lengths were spot-on, and that I certainly have done this before. That shifter box didn't line up that well accidentally.

Again, I am sorry UPS crushed your bell housing and you know how hard I have been working to find you a replacement.

I'm sorry you are displeased. I have handled every one of your phone calls and responded in what I thought was a very short time with answers and suggestions.

FUN WITH METAL SHAVINGS
 

Curious Lance has a fancy custom torque tube with the shifter just right.

Curious Lance wonders what is inside.

Curious Lance look's inside.

Curious Lance say's Oh my!

This is why Curious Lance drinks.

Carl,
Stop already......just because you write things in my thread do not make them true. Let’s move on and part ways. I know you are working on a replacement housing, the same as I, so once that is resolved, there is no need for further dialog between us, or your need to post in my thread. As I said before, I was silent until you over reacted to a funnny response and then open the flood gates.
I honestly wish you the best with figuring out you kit and I hope others will benefit from my experenice.

fastmd,
Thanks for the kind words. I agree with you on your direction to go Singer quality. I really think the 928 is the ultimate Grand Tour car with the modern day upgrades. If I can help in anyway with information, just PM. I am not that knowledgeable with the 928, but can share some of my experenice.

Best of luck, look forward to seeing your build thread.

Installed steering rack and steering shaft. The shat barely hit the header flange so I was able to grind some cleanse in the header flange. The exhaust flange that bolts to the header is smaller and has plenty of clearance.

Lance, can't wait until you get this baby finished!
FastMD: ever thought about sending the '79 5 spd for a "Greg Brown" build?
I have a '79 5 spd currently at Precision Motorwerks awaiting for my wallet to collect some money before asking GB build a NA 5.9L euro CIS top end stroker!

Yeah, I have been biting at the bit lately, behind by a good month. My longest build is 8 months and I really hope to be done with this before then.
I am hoping to have the car ready for paint by the end of the year.

Fastmd needs to throw a LS9 Motor in his Singer style build. If I do another one, that is what I will be looking to do.

This thread reminds me of this odd word swarf. A term I learned a year ago with much personal distress as I re-threaded the oil adapter plug in my block. I know I should know this terminology but I'm not a machinist like some of y'all, or apparently some certain rotational masses...

Pilot bearings!!!!!

In the handy fits all foolproof assortment pack.

No clearance, Clarence!

But Lance soldiers on.

When this occurred, Lance just stood there,for a really, really long time.

Suddenly he grabbed the defective bellhousing and ran towards the welders screaming "Those Cheese Head's won't break me!"

Realizing he was delirious I hit him with the tranquilizer gun.

He went down on all fours for a few seconds but the crazy bastard got back up, staggering towards the welders screaming "F**KING CHEESE HEADS!"

So I hit him again.
He's resting comfortably now.

I'd think you would need some sort of heat shielding there? Won't that just cook the rubber on the rack?

Thanks. I am sure you will see multiple PMs from me:cheers:

Don't know much about Greg Brown, hitting google now.


We are completely open to which motor we use. My buddy is really experienced with LS engines in his race cars so it will be some variant.

I am also considering 1 or a twin turbo set up. At this point, I just want it to be a all around performer.

The 928s never get the respect they deserve.

Back to your thread:thumbup:

The rubber doughnut on steering shaft is much higher up and away from the the header, similar or more clearance than stock 928 header.

I have a pair of twin turbos (Borg Warner) I bought at a Indy car auction. I considered putting them on the LS3 in the 928, but decided against it do to the amount of work to make everything fit, instead I am looking at a Vortex Super Charger. I went over to A&A Corvette and spoke with the owner Andy and took measurements of the system in a Corvette. Ends up there are a few more inches of clearance in the 928 over the Corvette. Only issue is the ducting over the radiator.
Anyhow, a LS9 makes close to 700hp stock and the LT4 makes close to 600hp stock. Nice thing about both engines is the simplicity of exhaust and plumbing.
Twin turbos would be very nice as well.

This thread gets the most gone sideways thread award for 2017. And for once I'm not driving.

Regarding the LS9, if the build is strictly a street car, then excellent choice.

However, if the build will see track time, I would recommend a NA variant. The C7 Z06 LT4 track guys have issues keeping everything cool and the computer then pulling timing, etc.

Yea, but we get to finish the conversion on your car, and I ain't looking forward to it.

Started running the wire harness and plugging things together. The accelerator is electronic and has a 2” wide connector. With the assist of Dinsdale, took the connector apart and ran harness through the throttle cable hole in firewall. I drilled out the rubber gromet and reused to seal.
I watched a video online on how to remove the pins and you don’t need any fancy tool, just a pin or something small to release the pins. Took a total of 10 minutes to disassemble and reattach.

This is a great thread!

Sterling, I take that as a compliment. Thank you.

I'm here to help if ya'll need.

Cheers :biggulp:

Sean, It's not an ordeal, it's an adventure!

Plus, there's a free prize for you inside the torque tube.

Cheers Dinsdale :biggulp:

Concern about Torque Tube pre-load
 

Lance,

Dinsdale posted a picture of the clearance between your axle flange and the rear cross-member that worries me.

I have re-posted his picture below with the words "Wrong clearance" written on the picture, and a picture taken from an install that shows the correct clearance. I also added one from our installation manual that is also useful from the top.

The clearance from the CV joint to the rear cross-member is close, yes, but not as close as the picture in Dins' picture, so something is wrong. We do not ship them like that.

I am aware that when you first test-fit the kit you had a LS3 pilot bearing in your motor, and that would have extended the crank back by about a 1/2". You told me that you tried to draw up the bell housing to the engine by the bolts when it wouldn't slide any further forward, and broke the ears off the bell housing in the attempt. That would take a LOT OF FORCE.

Dins' picture makes me worry that the rear cross-member has been bent or otherwise misaligned during that attempted install with the wrong pilot bearing. Please check to make sure it is OK. There should be more clearance than you show in that pic.

Other options include: The picture that I am worried about seems to have been taken on the floor, resting on a 2X4", and not installed. If that is the case it might be that there is nothing wrong at all - the parts laid up on the floor will not have the same clearances as they will when mounted on the frame of the car.

The last suggestion I have for you is to elongate your Renegade motor mount adapters. This is a suggestion I have made to Renegade so that their kit will be a simpler install on various engine and crank combinations. Our suggestion to Renegade was that they slot their motor mount bolt hole by 1/2" The photo I sent to Travis and Scott at Renegade I have attached here for you.

The torque tube is a fixed length, as you know, and must be located in the rear in a fairly exact position for the rear suspension. The location of the motor, on the other hand, is not that important. The slots in the motor mount adapters would allow you to locate the rear cross-member and the transaxle, bolt up the torque tube, and then just snug up the motor mount molts where the motor ends up, without any pre-load or compression in the system.

Carl, those pictures were taking before ever putting in the car and if you recall, I addressed the clearance with you at the time. I by "NO" way bent anything. The clearance in your photo is equal to the clearance I have on the "Passenger" side, which is the photo you provided. The photo I show is of the Drivers side.
Everything bolted in the first time I installed and there was a gap of 3/8" between the bell housing and the torque tube. After numerous attempts, you might recall me telling you that I was going to slot the engine mounts, it was then that when bolting the housings together I cracked one of the bolt holes in the housing and it by no means bent your bracket and if it did, I need to throw it away, because it would not be safe to drive with.
It will be interesting to see how everything fits with all the suspension on. I found a housing today and purchased....check your email for the invoice so I can be reimbursed. I should hopefully have everything installed this weekended and we can look at clearance and decide if we need to do anything

I'm just doing some necessary CYA here, Lance. I only know what I was told. Our rear cross-member mount is very robust, and I can't imagine you could bend it, but you never know.

We did some measuring.

The 930 CV and T56 adapter flange supplied with the kit measure 4.25" diameter.

The stock Corvette CV measures 3.875" diameter. No adapter needed.

The axles are same diameter and spline.

For those with 82 and earlier cars, all you need is a pair of 930 CVs and a pair of axles from any
off road or sand rail supply house.
I use Kartek.com

After looking at you picture and doing the best I can in zooming in, it looks like your drivers side clearance is as tight as mine was before I massage it. The passenger side looks the same as what I have.
Do you have a side view ?

Nice build. Can't wait to see it when its done.

These types of threads make me want to buy another 928 and drop an LS motor in it.

Thanks, I am hoping to pick up the pace once I get the drive train in.
Jump in and get yourself another 928, each build thread helps to simply the conversion.
I already have ideas for another one, but just need to stay focus on this build.

I have looked and I do not. The best side view I have that shows the spacing is this one (below) and it is from the passenger side.

Let me show you this - it may help your understanding as to why I kept the clearance from the CV joint to the cross-member that tight.

See pic below.

The more a CV joint is angled, the more HP is lost in the CV joint, and the faster the CV joint will wear.

The CV joint already has to allow for the axle to move up and down with the suspension, and an angular moment too caused by the changes in toe from the Weissach system.

I just didn't want to add any more angularity to the link than I absolutely had to. The picture shows the shape of the 928 rear suspension and the Tremec T56 is such that this is as straight as it can be.

I offer our 6-speed kits with two transaxle mounts: solid aluminum and polyurethane. If you are using the solid aluminum trans mounts, the transaxle will not move and the clearance from the CV joint to the cross-member can be very tight. I remember your kit shipped with polyurethane mounts, which will allow a little movement in the trans, so we would like to see a little more clearance there.

The car can go together and be driven as-is with the polyurethane mounts. If the trans should move under torque so much that the CV joint touches the cross-member, a witness mark will be made on the CV joint so you will be able to see that it is rubbing. Then just call me and we can discuss how to get more clearance or I will send you a set of solid mounts for free which will also solve the problem, if there is one.

I say "if there is one" because I think that under load, the driver's side CV joint may be drawn away from the cross-member, and not closer to it anyway.

Had the A/C condenser flushed and installed new receiver drier. Mounted back in car so i can figure hoses and fittings.

Seems every time I start to move forward I end up going back several steps.
I received the TT trans housing today, I bead blasted the housing and cleaned up up drive shaft and re-installed. I also welded up the broken one as a backup in case I couldn’t find a replacement.

Note; I bought a 2003 Z06 drivetrain. The TT trans housing on a 2003 is welded on. I confirmed the trans and diff are Z06, but somewhere along the way someone put in a 1999 TT on the car, which has the bolt on housing. I was told no difference between the two and actually worked out better since the housing got damaged. If I had the standard welded housing, the entire TT would have had to been shipped back and cut apart and new housing welded on. Just wanted to share that there are two different TT that work.

So, got the TT bolted to trans, cut of ears on new housing for cleanse (both sides), installed shift rod and rolled drivetrain into place to install. I could not get the shaft in the clutch, After an hour, of trying different angles, I thought to myself, could Renegade I have sent me the clutch for the 928 trans.....sure enough, they sent the wrong clutch:banghead: . I took the half shaft from the 928 motor and it slid right in. Once again I removed everything and will be sourcing a new clutch tomorrow.

is that red grease, wheel bearing grease?

If so I would wash it off and use the Porsche hi temp spline grease, its a dark bronze,
the red grease will fling off and contaminate the clutch disc.

the P grease is as about as sticky as you can find, put it on with a tooth brush

Thanks Mrmerlin...will do. I was planning on wiping it off, i didn’t want to mess up the splines while trying to figure out why it wouldn’t slide in. I will look for spline grease. :cheers:

Installed proper flywheel, pressure plate and disc.
Installed the drivetrain and heat shields.

Interesting pressure plate.

So this installation requires Alpinstar boots?

I was going to say something about those ski boots too but didn't want to get a PM from the moderator for being an idiot again. :)

Dirt bike I think

There's a running back-play on footwear in the pictures through the whole thread. Replay from the beginning for full appreciation. ;)

No doubt - motocross boots.

When it’s done I want to see bunny slippers

Installed rear suspension and axles. Everything went together fairly smooth, only had to massage one bracket.

Been working on the fuel system. I picked up some fittings that allow me to weld on to the existing metal fuel lines and have AN-6 fitting. I am taking the fuel pump supply line and using the connector mated to AN adapter. I will go from there to the pressure regulator, out of regulator to fuel rail on manifold. The bottom of the regulator has return, which will go into the cooler and then out back to fuel tank with stock line. All lines will be pressure tested. I have the setup for the AN side, just need the metric plug.

Going to mount the fuel regulator on fire wall. I fianally was able to remove the engine lift plate so I could put the manifold back in place. Found good location for reg. Just need to notch engine cover.

Installed hurst short shifter.

Enough, just take my cash!

Mounted Fuel Regulator on fire wall. Made up -6 AN fittings SS braided fuel lines. I use a handy kit that allows for easy SS line into AN fitting and allows pressurizing the connection. Install adapter, pressureize and put in water to check for leaks.

Those lines sure do look great,
one caveat with SS covered hoses whatever they touch/rub on will get ground down if the parts move.
I put some clear tubing on them to prevent damage.
Greg Brown also sells a kevlar coated hi pressure line,
this to replace the SS lines so they dont cut into other parts

Noted.....I will slit some clear tubing and wrap SS line in areas of rubbing.
:cheers:

In your first picture here,

Is it possible that your shock is 180 degrees out of alignment? It doesn't look like it's sitting flat on the pin, but that could be the photo.

I think it might be just the photo....everything went together nicely and I don't think the shock has a preference in rotation other than the top mount.

I will have another look though.

The shock definitely has a preference.

When I put my suspension together, I did the same thing. It all goes together "fine", but clearly you can tell the shock isn't sitting as flush on the pin as the other suspension components. It will bind during articulation.

The trick is trying to put the pin in last. I bet you dollars to donuts that if you remove that pin, you won't get it back in without rotating your shock.

These are not stock shocks and there wasn't anything to indicate there was a difference in how the bottom mounts.

It's your car my friend, I'm just trying to help. Dismiss me if you'd like, but the photo looks off :)

They look like Konis? That's what mine were.

As I said......I will take another look.

Thanks for pointing it out.

Drivers looks fine, passenger looks backwards to me also.

Fishah,
you were correct on the shock being off by 180. I didn’t notice the bottom of the shocksmounts are welded with a slight angled.
I very much appreciate you catching this and letting me know. :cheers:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...b0ee3cf63.jpeg

Your project is inspiring, and I've been enjoying following along, so it's absolutely my pleasure to assist. It looks much better now. I'm glad that you got it sorted!

Like I said I did the same exact thing a couple weeks ago, and I was really scratching on what I did wrong because I knew something looked just a little off.

Started working on power steering lines. I am using modified stock lines. I utilized the banjo flanges to the steering box and cut the steel tubing just above the mount on the fender wall. I welded the AN-6 fitting on and used the hight pressure fittings and hose. I was able to make the pressure line and installed to power steering pump after installing a extended AN fitting. I am not happy with the way the return line runs to the plastic tank, so I am either going to make new tank or see if there are other options mounting to plastic tank.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...7d0e88ccf.jpeg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f367a0121.jpeg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...a3edc22d4.jpeg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...7822bb6a2.jpeg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...ab16fbee6.jpeg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...2ee20f2bd.jpeg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...33d51e239.jpeg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...9cb8a2368.jpeg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...a4d8571ac.jpeg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...ad37e62f8.jpeg
Picked up 993 8 way Electric seats. The seats are new, meaning they were removed soon after receiving the car and put in storage. The seats are in perfect condition. I did the math and it came out cheaper to buy these seats instead of redoing my seats, plus I get 20 years newer technology if any in the motors. The size and mounts are the same as the 928 seats.

At this point I don't know what is more impressive- the build or your footwear.

Finished the coolant tank after a few more mods. Plumbed the heater hoses and made a new radiator line from motor to radiator. I used some aluminum billet clamps that add a nice touch and clamp very well.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...130104374.jpeg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...75d7c4dc9.jpeg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...005f561c9.jpeg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...60172b0ee.jpeg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...d01549d38.jpeg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...fc5e0cf2f.jpeg

Would you be interested/willing to build a second overflow tank like that one?

928 motorsports has them for sale with or without the sending unit. Made to bolt in and hook up to stock 928 plumbing. I have my hands full right now and probably can’t build one for his price. Thanks for asking. :cheers:
https://928motorsports.com/parts/coolant_reservoir.php

I do understand about being busy, and appreciate your response. I am looking for one for an LS3, and will look at his site, but am not a big fan.

Just Peachy (Tony) has the tank on his LS3. The difference in my tank is I made it for AN fittings and I made it deeper with a step to clear all the hoses.
Fully understand where you are coming from.

Decided to ditch the 5 gallon windshield washer tank. I purchased a AC Delco pump and built a new aluminum tank.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...fb6527936.jpeg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...e94c71888.jpeg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...796721327.jpeg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...624743d6c.jpeg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...1202141d3.jpeg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...add34455a.jpeg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...b00ece94b.jpeg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...76d99dc53.jpeg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...e2def0bd3.jpeg

Finally, you make it to slippers.

I personally favor the Costco Dearfoam's for my garage/shop attire...

You definitely have more than fabrication skills with that left is right, right is left stance in 2nd picture!

Tackled the power steering resivor. I didn’t like the slip hose fitting and the angle so made aluminum with AN fitting on return line.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f6f104578.jpeg
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^ Coffee through nose....lol.

Better watch out. With your fabrication skills, making power steering reservoir one minute and all of a sudden, you are working on the car's body panels, interior, etc. You may not have a 928 anymore!

I seriously doubt that the average Porsche enthusiast will know by looking at the car it isn’t a true 928. I am only improving the drive train and smoothing out a few things.

Installed new bushings on front sway, not impressed with the collars and how they mount verse stock.

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I have to admit I held the same feelings about your efforts before reading the entire thread. I'm not a big fan of hybrids.

But after reading about your adventure you have my respect; I may not agree entirely with what you're doing, but I respect your efforts and a part of me thinks you might be doing something the factory should have done had they not had themselves cut off at the knees.

Appreciate your view and positive words.
Porsche was ahead of there time with the 928. Pretty amazing they used aluminum panels in the body and used a torque tube drive train almost 40 years ago.
If you are a 928 owner and drive your car on a regular basis, the same complaints come up about the manual transmission, timing belt / water pump / oil leaks and the infamous electrical system. I like the classic lines of the 928 and to think you can take modern reliable “better” components and convert into a 928 is The best of both worlds. It is no different than Singer making a $400,000 car out of a 964.....there is nothing original about the car, but it is a work of art.
:cheers:

Lance,
Agree with your last post completely and am attempting the same thing myself. As you have time (if you can still get to it) can you measure from the centerline of the axle shaft at the transaxle to the rear of the engine face at the bell housing? I measure 84.75 for the 928 parts in my shop and my C7 (with 8L90 trans) measures 86.50. I also have the renegade engine mounts and based on only adding 1" to your torque tube I am wondering if it is possible do this with just adjusting motor mount holes and/or modifying the battery box as you did and sliding the transaxle to the rear a little bit. I appreciate your time. Steve

sent you a PM

Started the layout for rear seat delete. I am building a one piece aluminum frame and will have two hinged access lids. Everything will be covered with the same black carpet as the cargo area. I like what Tony (JP) did with the cargo storage boxes he used, but decided to make my own and pick up some extra space. I got everything cut out, but my brake is on 48”, so need to go to friends shop to bend on bigger brake.

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Bent up the aluminum rear seat delete and started building steel frame to mount too.

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Great idea..no termites running aluminum ^^ :D Can't wait to see your plans for storage, doors, subwoofer, amps, etc. T

Hi Tony,
hope all went well for you while out here.
I will make a pair of aluminum hinged lids with flush push button latches. I did something similar on my Rally build. Inside and out will be carpeted and I will probably do something similar to yours and put the stereo equip in side etc.

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Bookmarked.

I am going this route when my motor goes TBF or bang.

This has to be one of my favorite threads in a long time, and at the same time the most frustrating. I'm sorting through photos watching you guys accomplish more in a few weeks than I did all year on my cars. Well done!



......why not sell the perfectly good non-exploded engine to fund the conversion?

Considering 300k+ miles on properly maintained S4's, your plan might take a while :p

I can always decide to *GULP* defer maintenance :evilgrin:

Curious to know if he is going to do the 'hot cam' later which bumps the power up even more on the LS3. It's not like CA is going to know it's in there. These engines are pretty clean even with cam mods.

This thread makes me feel inadequate in both my fabrication skills and my shoe game...

And a :cheers: back to you :)

I probably should mention my interests in this thread aren't purely vicarious (but I am a great lover of good car porn). I own a 1985 parts car I've been using for years as a donor for my '85 street machine and I'm reaching a point where I'll need to decide to either tear it down to the nuts and bolts or convert it to a track rod. It has a very fine working block in it that will need a complete rebuild just because all the plastic parts on it have crumbled away and none of the sensors or harnesses are any good, but the engine itself is strong. I could rebuild it (which would be a good experience for me) or do something like what you're doing. Mine (like most) is an auto, so converting it to a manual would be an additional challenge, but then there's always the option of mating the LS3 to a suitable automatic I suppose. Mind you, the interior is gone so I can take quite a few liberties with the chassis if I decided to just go manual, and I'd very much prefer that in a track machine.

So I'll be watching your project with great interest. Thanks for going to all the trouble of documenting it, you've done an excellent job so far!

Best regards,

Further, if I pull the engine, torque tube and transmission from my parts car and re-build them, I have spares for my street car. Your project is looking more and more attractive...

I wonder if they will ever make an EROD LT5? The one from the new ZR-1 that just came out. :evilgrin:

Scott, I have been "crazy thinking" in the mode of your parts car (I have access to one like it, but probably will pass) and thought to follow in Fixer's path by stripping everything possible to lose the weight and might go with the LT (direct injection) version of GM's 4.3 V6 in front of a C5 (or C6) 6 speed manual like Lance is doing here. That V6 puts out 300HP and weighs 360 lbs. I would think that if you stripped (dipped) the undercoating off, did all the mods on Fixer's car and lose 150+ lbs with engine you could get down around 2200 lbs. With 300HP, 4.10 axle gears and the 6 speed manual you would have a real screamer, would sound funny though...
I am sorry Lance for hijacking your thread, delete if you wish.

Matt aka "Fixer" got his 928 build down to 2670ish with the stock 16v motor and 5spd trans/diff...quite an accomplishment but at the cost of losing some comfort and streetability. That said, Lance should lose approx 150lbs with the LS motor and gain back 50lbs with the HD Z06 6spd trans/diff/tq tube. From what I've seen so far ^^ Lance will be running a more creature comfort/streetable cruiser ride with some nice ammentities re: nice aftermarket sound system, full interior, etc. This should bring the car to approx 3,050-3,150 lbs. Fairly light compared to newer gen Mustang, Camaros's...3,800lbish, and the much heavier Hellcats at 4,600ish.02 T

Oh, I thought I remembered Matt's car at 2450 or so. I am doing similar engine to Lance's and am planning on using a C7 8 speed automatic. Expect mine to be similar weight to stock or slightly heavier, with a slight rear bias. Mine is just a cruiser as opposed to Lance (and your) racier cars.

Pretty sure Matt got her down to 2,670ish and was really stripped out..re: insulation removed, holes drilled in non-critical points thoughout, etc. You mentioned ^^ 2,200 lbs. That would be a feat even with the lighter LS motor. Remember your only losing 50lbs if running the Z06 trans/diff/tq tube. You'll also be adding more weight back in running a 8spd Vette Auto. IIRC Carl FLYVMO is running the slightly earlier 6 or 7 spd auto in his build. https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ed-car-41.html. Just Peachy was not built to be a super lightweight"racer"...rather a comfortable/streetable/powerfull fast resto-mod. It has a full pascha interior with the exception of a rear seat delete with a big aftermarket sound system...so no weight savings there. https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...b-project.html T

Steve,
I was told that the C6 and C7 Torque tubes are larger in diameter to the C5 and possible would not fit inside the tunnel without major mods. It would be nice to get the diameter, so we know if it will fit. Both C6 & 7 are much better drive trains than the C5 and will take a lot more HP.

"Oh, I thought I remembered Matt's car at 2450 or so. I am doing similar engine to Lance's and am planning on using a C7 8 speed automatic. Expect mine to be similar weight to stock or slightly heavier, with a slight rear bias. Mine is just a cruiser as opposed to Lance (and your) racier cars."


I've been thinking about this same combo!

The issue is finding out if the C7 A8 8l90 trans aka Gev V transmission will communicate properly with the Gen IV LS engine computer.

The C7 Corvettes did have the same A6 6L80 transmission as some of the Gen IV cars/ trucks, and then switched over to the newer A8 8L90.

So my thought is that it "should" work. GMPP sells a harness, and transmission computer for use in something like this, bu specifies that you need the Gen V engine computer to go with it.

I've contacted HP tuners to see what they can do, I will keep you posted...

Lance,
Forgive me if I missed it in this great thread.

Do standard long tube headers fit in the chassis, or did you have to go a custom route?

Thanks,
Joe

Hi Joe
lots of room to use stock cast headers or aftermarket tube headers. The SS hooker headers I purchased is for another LS3 twin turbo build (sand car). I put them on the LS3 motor for the 928 and installed. Had room to spare in the engine compartment. I am on the fence if I am going to use them on the 928 build.

Thanks Lance,
I am glad to hear that. I am a long long way away from this, but am keeping my eyes out for pieces and parts awhile.

I wish you were closer, i'd love to see your car when it is finished...

Have the rear seat delete frame roughed in and attached a few Zeus fasteners. Installed aluminum hinges and starting to make the lids.

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Lance,

My numbers are not really precise but stock 928 TT measures just under 4", the C6 (manual trans) is 5.3" and the C7 is 5.4+ due to a layer of heat shield like insulation. What diameter is the C5 TT?

Joe,

Jim at Zero Gravity Performance (facebook) has a "translator module" to go from the Gen4 ECU to the Gen5 TCU. We have it connected in my big Jeep, but it is not ready to fire yet so I cannot tell you how well it will work. My ECU is GMPP LS3 and The TCU is stock 2016 Corvette for the 8L90.

Finally recived the super charger components, working with Andy at A&A Corvette locally. Andy is working with me on supplying parts to convert to the LS3 / 928 conversion. Looking at a real 550hp to 575hp at rear wheels ( not crank), on pump 91 octane with no mods to the motor ( daily driver) could easily go more but would not be reliable without replacing pistons, rods and crank, etc. . Just need to re-program the ECU, increase injectors to 60psi......we think stock fuel pump will be good, but will confirm on dyno.
So far the only thing I needed to do is cut off a few threaded posts on the water pump for clearance. I installed the fender and hood to confirm the the super charger cleared the hood, which it does, but will need to add heat shield as safety. So far everything bolts right in and clears, I will need to make custom aluminum intake and pre cooler pipiping. Also, I think I need custom size intercooler.......stay tuned.

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Wow. That’s going to be a little rocket ship when you’re done with it! Very impressive! Not only your build skills but even more so how fast you’re getting everything put together...

Finished up rear seat delete. I will sound deaden everything after paint during assembly. Black carpet will cover everything and match rear cargo area..


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Howbout raccoon pelts instead of carpet, Daniel Boone?

I like this idea! Man you are coming up with some great stuff!
Almost as good as your shoe shows :D

You sir just made my evening!

I didn't think that it was impossible since the C7 corvettes came with the 6l80 before the 8l90 came out.

Thank you for the info...

Nice! I'm actually going the other route and going with a modified motor to make the power and keeping it N/A

The guys at A&A are great to deal with from what i've heard on the corvette forum so i'm sure you're in great hands.

There's something to be said about not touching the motors internals from a factory build.

The pace and quality in which you do your work is :rockon:

great build. Any way to add some sort of traction control too it all as you are using "GM" brains and harness etc.
My car breaks lose with little or no effort.?

Ewww! Sounds like a great way to ruin all the fun.

An experienced right foot is the best traction control out there.

Thanks for the kind words......things will slow down a bit with the holidays and my painter says he is booked through the end of the year, so timing is working out for me. There is a bit of plumbing to figure out with the super charger and want to make sure it is done right.

I am going to have to side with Fishah on the fun factor without the addition of traction control.

even has Corvette on it!;)

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Modern systems have surpassed what even the most experienced right foot can achieve. At least when launching such a powerful car.

I both agree and disagree with your point.

I typed out a long response but I figure it better not to clutter this thread.

id just like to see him implement it....why not at this point? I dont think it has been done on a 928 yet?

Todd's cars have launch & traction control with Autronic using the stock ABS sensors.

I have driven a Mclearn with launch control....fastest thing I have ever been in and I understand after driving, why so many super cars get totaled. I can honestly say that the Mclearn scared me a little, because I knew in the back of my mind that if the car got loose, most likely you weren't going to save it.
I will keep traction control in mind if I do another build, but for now I look forward to some really long burn outs.

It would be very difficult to get the factory traction control active. We do the stability control on the GM cars (and all the super cars). You would have to make it think it's still a Corvette. That would require bringing all the wiring, sensors, brake parts, and controllers from the GM vehicle. Even if it worked the vehicle model would be wrong and the control would be poor.

Decided to upgrade the fuel pump now after running some numbers. I choose the Bosch 044 pump that puts out 72.5 PSI with 82 GPH. This will be more than efficient for my setup.
The pump is a bit longer and uses a M 1.5 thread fitting instead of the slip hose fitting. I used AN fittings with SS line slip with hose clamp coming out of tank, same as stock connection. Everything went back together nicely.

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Starting to figure out how I am going to build the intake. I cut the aluminum lip off the top of radiator for more clearance and using 3 1/2” tubing per A&A Corvette suggestion. I am going from round to oval with a height of 1 1/2” by 5’ wide to get over the radiator.
I cut 1 1/2’ tubing in half for sides and will fab top and bottom plate to finish the oval. I should have my new intercooler that is specifically being built for my car by end of week and once mounted I can finish the length and connection. I will have to build the plumbing from charger to intercooler and charger to air cleaner....lots to do.

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How many pounds of boost do you plan on running?

You can lower the radiator with a couple Z shaped lower radiator brackets and drop it at least a couple of inches. I did that when I was building the dual core Volvo intercooler and was able to run a 2 1/2" round pipe over the top of the radiator.

I looked at that option, but it would create another problem that would be far worse. I have to run the compressed side of the charger plumbing on the bottom of the radiator and up into the inter cooler, so it would drop the pipe to low and could be damaged. I looked to see if I could come in from the side and there is no room. Ideally, I should have had the radiator built shorter, narrower and wider to accommodate the plumbing. I think when I am all done this will be a nice setup and work well.....at least I hope

kind of late now but if you have a hydraulic press, you can make nice oval tubing out of round by using a piece of 2x4 stuck inside the tube (otherwise the tube will start to make a figure-8 sort of shape once it gets squished too much).

use flat plates (maybe just more 2x4s) on top/bottom of tube to spread the force evenly.

I can buy a 3 1/2" round to oval in steel from Mandrel Bend Solutions, but I want to make out of aluminum. If you noticed in the picture I started with 3 1/2" round and made into oval on the other end. I want the option to flare the width or add a bend over the radiator and is why I am making my own pieces, otherwise I could have cut a longer tube and continued the oval. This is my first attempt at making something like this, so I am sure there will be some changes.

I'm a few days behind but this might be of interest for you on your fuel take to pump situation"https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ml#post9237834Close up:https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--...1000000086.JPG

Let me know if you want a better picture of the kit. I've got one here.

Fuel pressure and volume is calculated and should be good to go. Appreciate the the additional information....love the support��

Instead of doing pistons and rods, you can install a bigger cam with more duration which will lower your dynamic compression ratio making the engine less prone to detonation on pump gas, even if you stay at a max of only 8 psi.

A cam is relatively cheap, and does require a tune, but you're already going to do that with the blower, so that cost is a wash.

Received the new intercooler, which is gorgeous. Started the mount, I cut out a third of the cross member and welded in a stiffener. I think with my cross stiifener I built and the welded in stiffener the structure will be sound. I am very happy so far with the fitment
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The shoes, the shoes!!!!!

Got the intercooler mounted. Very secure and rubber isolators to allow for a liitle movement. I didn’t have to modify or move anything, which was nice.

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Have about 90% done on the intake. Just need to make end cap and grind down welds. I will have painted to match car color.
Everything clears with a little room to spare.


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Too late now but if you ever get another intercooler made, have both intercooler ports at the top. This way you can lower the radiator and have the intercooler pipes go over the top of the radiator. Instead of squishing both pipe, like you have now, they can stay intact or maybe just slightly elongated if they are over 2.5" in diameter.

In order to lower the radiator, you would have to cut approx. 1" of the cross member from side to side in addition to the "Z" mounts in order to drop the radiator. I am running 3 1/2" tubing for the intake to throttle bottle and have equal to or greater the volume in comparison to the 3 1/2" round. The bottom pipe to the inter cooler is 3" and ovaled to 1 1/2". My guess is that the pipe sticks down as far as dropping the radiator, so either way would work, but there is much more going on than meets the eye.

Thanks for the suggestion. :cheers:

if possible see if you can't fit a velocity-stack type shape to the transition from the IC outlet->TB oval pipe, and round the forward end to make it look like a "cobra head".

(or just buy one, http://www.intakehoses.com/mm5/merch...gory_Code=CHEW)

just rounding the inside radius of that turn from IC to TB pipe will make a big difference in airflow quality vs the sharp 90 as in the photo.

FYI - Here is how Turbo Todd lowered the radiator on his car - 2" drop.
On his red car he dropped it 3":



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Thanks Hacker
That is a very nice setup. I think Todd has a few more options in where to mount the turbo and running the pipe to the inter cooler verse the super charger being fixed in one location and the inlet and outlet being limited in there orientation. In hindsight, there are a few other ways I could have gone, but I wasn't sure I was going to add the super charger until later, after confirming it was smog legal........ at that point I already purchased the radiator / oil cooler.
I am fairly happy with how everything is going together and will take V2Rocket's suggestion about trying to get more of a slope in the tube from IC to TB.
As always, appreciate the input and suggestions :cheers:

Here is his supercharged car, this one the radiator was dropped 3 inches.

I think this supercharger is sitting up a bit higher than yours is though:




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Hacker, that segmented headlight pod cross shaft on Todd's supercharged car is pretty slick.

Definitely better looking for sure.

why is the supercharger wrapped in duct tape :roflmao:

also do you happen to know the size of that inlet piping (filter to SC)

looks much cleaner and will definitely flow better.
i work for a major HVAC supply company so this stuff comes up sometimes.
equivalent pipe length is a convenient way to estimate friction losses.

https://www.energyvanguard.com/sites...lence-acca.jpg
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Its covered in sound deadening material underneath.

The straight cut gears are too loud? :)

Blagave,

I got my intake over the radiator by going to a dual-pass radiator, then it could be a little shorter/smaller and getting the intake over the top was not a problem any more. The dual-pass radiator ran cooler, too.

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Carl,
not exactly apples to apples as far as an install. I agree that a lower radiator would have been the right way to go, but your setup is not realistic for a street car. You don’t have a ac condenser, headlight bar etc....... plus you run a modified one piece hood. Your air cleaner intake is where the hood latches on a street car. Not sure how your setup works for my situation.

You'd just have to replace your hood latch with hood pins. The A/C wouldn't be a problem - in the pictures my car has an intercooler, a A/C heat exchanger is much smaller.

But - there is always more than one "right way". You're doing fine.

all that ducting on that 928, Carl is that a 2-ton or 3-ton HVAC system :roflmao:

Yes, it's a bunch to get air to where it needs to be. The oil coolers (2) are outside the engine bay.

Impressive :)

Looking good. That is gonna be a fun car. Best of luck with it.

Did you run out of shoes for your pictures?

We don.t wear shoes in the house either, especially on h hardwood floors.

What's the benefit or running an X and a Y pipe?

X pipe evens up flow and pressure and helps with the droning noise, supposedly adds a few HP. I am more concern with the dreaded humming noise at highway speed., so doubling up on resonator and x pipe to help keep it stay quite. The "Y" pipe is taking the (2) 2 1/2" pipes and converting to single 3"....just easier to run a single 3" instead of (2) 2 1/2" pipes through the suspension etc.

Thats some really nice work going on there!

Wouldn’t the Y pipe even out the pulses too? Since you are taking the entire system town to a single pipe, wouldn’t the benefit of the X gets lost at the Y connection? The only reason I’m asking is that I haven’t yet seen a combination like yours before.

Don't know, not a exhaust guy. I read several exhaust articles and outlined my situation to a engine builder friend. I purchased what he suggested and built it. I hope everything works as planned.

I did the same thing although I did it more to keep from burning myself from adding ATF while the engine was warmed up than anything else. The car feels stronger regardless if it's X into Y or just the X into 2 Flowmasters I ran before.

Blagave, what model Super Turbo Dynomax is that? I bought a 3" in/out offset just like that, but when looking side, it looks like the muffler necks down to 2.5". Theoretically this would kill HP, unless it's mounted at the very back of the car, where due to length and loss of heat, wouldn't affect performance.

https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1396052081

That's the one I have in a box still. My part number is #17744, offset in/center out. However, the sucker necks down after the inlets to 2.5". Picture below shows the taper.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...d1750f6339.jpg

For some reason I can't edit the post I just added. That picture is not mine. This was the same muffler cut open off a Mopar forum. The guy ran 17744's from Dynomax on a 440 car and "claimed" he lost horsepower.

A single piped 928 (16v or 32v) I assume would be fine with a 3" turbo muffler such as this, just so long as it's mounted where the primary muffler is - at the very back at the car, well after the 8-9 feet of exhaust length where the exhaust is the coolest.

For your 376 LS3, I don't think this will be an issue for you either as long as you mount it as indicated above.

The 3" is LOUD. Even on a 928 32v motor. That turbo muffler will definitely quiet it down. Also look into a resonated exhaust tip to ease more of the bite.

I'm watching this thread carefully. I really want to do the EROD since I'm in CA if my motor goes south (TBF or otherwise). I won't go any crazier than just the crate, the Renegade kit, and a 4L60E with a C5 torque tube. My wife isn't too good at manual transmissions and she would want to drive the car too.

Mongo, doubt you would need the Renegade Kit if you are going all Chevy. You would only do that if you were staying with the 928 transaxle. Renegade does have a radiator with the correct sized inlet and outlets, however it is not crossflow (2 directions) so the top hose and bottom hose are on opposite sides. The LS with Camaro/Corvette water pump could use a radiator with both water ports on the passenger side to clean up the front of the engine area. I don't think there is any real advantage to the 4L60, the 928 transaxle is every bit as strong as the Chevy, and you wouldn't have to build any mounts, manual or 6L80 or 8L90 are a different story and would warrant the extra fabrication required.

@Mongo - Spend the money on a 6l80e powertrain over the 4l60e. It's a much better driving trans that's several decades newer in design. Plus, the spark cut during the clutch to clutch shift sounds really cool.

how did you find him? He is banned here as well as blocked on several 928 FB pages.

Where is he in Oregon?

Thinking of getting a hit squad going? Where do I sign up? :D

Not trying to derail Blagave's thread here... I chose the 4L60E as that tranny has the same gear counts as the auto S4. It would be the 'last' faint reference to an 80's car before being hurled down the road in a 430HP (well I'll be camming my build to 500) LS swapped shark.

I do have a black no sunroof headliner in stock which is very unusual. it's not perfect but not bad.

Sometimes an unexpected visit is sufficient to recover stranded parts.

I worked for a while in the 1980's with a retired New York Giants lineman. Nicest guy in the world. He owned some apartment buildings, but never went himself to collect delinquent rent. Way too much liability. Instead he hired large uniformed but off-duty L.A. County sheriff's deputies. No fuss.

Funny how we spend hours and even weeks working to shed race cars of every unneeded ounce. Meanwhile, a resto-mod tribute race-car gets full sound deadening and civilized interior treatment, so the driver can a) enjoy the noises the improved engine makes, and b) not have to wear earplugs inside the helmet while traveling between tour-stop appearances. ;)

Nice job on the sound damping application. Folks who have yet to do this may not know how much "fun" it is to template, cut and fit every little piece of mat so it fits perfectly. I fondly remember having a bucket of Harbor Freight 99-cent "multi-purpose scissors" (what other purpose is there besides cutting things?) and a big cup of thinner to drop them in as the edges were fouled with the glue. Too-Late Hint: Car wax/paint sealant on the blades more than doubles the amount of cutting available between cleanings. Similar deal on the razor knife -- I found one that holds cheap single-edge blades, always a toss-up between cleaning them or just putting another one in.

Keep up the great work, and thanks for documenting and sharing the experience with us!

Well done, glad you got it back

Whatcha doin' with that old yucky plastic spare tire cover panel?

^ Not being rude but while you're doing the trans put the original rear spoiler back on. I just don't think the S4 looks right on the older bodied cars. Just my opinion and like I said, not being rude, just in conversation.

Hey If you like it that's cool. Like I said, not being rude. It's still a nice car, I just think the S4 wing looks odd an an S that's all. Not having a go at you / your car. That's the thing I hate about writing stuff. It's hard to convey something without facial expressions, tone of voice etc.

I do not agree with your assessment as I've always disliked the pre-S4 ’spoilers’ - if that's what you'd want to call them.

That's cool. Different strokes.

Yeh, sorry. The thing you're building is friggin amazing. My youngest son is 22 as was looking at the build the other night with me and I had to slap him for you because he said " going to a lot of effort to build a Corvette". He did say it in jest though. He's a Porsche boy through and through ( he bought an 944S2 at 18) and is extremely impressed with your build as I think we all are.

The LED's are great. I'm doing this now as well. On some of the pod switches I had to run a line of solder along the contacts on both sides to keep it nice and tight. I've changed all the cluster lights as well. Pulled the globes out of the holders and then soldered a large strip on alternate sides of the led and replaced the globe with the new led ones. Worked a treat.
Also used a nice bright blue led for the AC button.

In the dark, how does the light output compare to the incandescent for the H3 fog lamp?

Where do you physically plan on installing the resistor for the tail-lights? Somewhere in the rear of the car with the housing or in the CE panel?

I'm a bit rusty on my wiring....

Blagave, those LED's look great. That's definitely on my list for the hopefully near future.

Haven't tried in the dark yet. seems to be a bit brighter than stock sitting on the bench. Will follow up when I get a dark picture.

Hi Hacker,

The gold anodize resistor in the pictures is used for the blinkers. Just cut the black wire at the tail light housing connector and splice the resistor in. I plan on the resistor sitting inside the rear cargo area behind the side panel.

Awesome, that is what I was thinking too since my 80 is still apart for body work too. Good time to get all this wired up.

You can use a flasher relay for LEDs https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...asher/782/836/

I would save the resistors for the brake and tail lamps to maintain cruise control function and trick the bulb controller on a stock car.

Isn't the blinker normally a white globe? Been a while since I've looked in there. Why is the resistor used for the indicators only?
Forgot to ask....did you remove all the factory floor crap before you put the 'dynamat' down?
Lastly, what colour are you painting?

Yes, all the lights use a white bulb. I read a few threads here in the forum and I took the information from the others who know what they are doing and did all the figuring out. It really doesn't matter if you use a amber or white bulb in this situation. The resistor is to make the LED flash, it will not flash without it. I ran into the same problem on a street tracker bike I built......sorry I don't have a technical answer for you.

Yes, I removed the factory floor sound proofing, which actually was the easy stuff to come off. I would imagine if your factory insulation is still bonded well, you could install the dynamat over the top.

Painting the car in a metallic gray. Porsche calls it "ACHATGRAU

Very nice colour and will suit the lines of the car well.
Are you going to do the illuminated 928 door sills?
I hope you keep this car for a while. Hoping to get the US at the end of the year and would love to see it in the flesh at a car show.

Haven't seen the door sill piece lit up, i will have to look around a little.
I plan on keeping the car, but I get bored easily with my cars :)

Lookin good with the lamps,
if you have not already done so it would a great time to replace the speedo drive gear,
pop the speedo out of the housing and post a picture of the gear,
its easy to tell if its been done

Wow! that is all I can say.

My sills were broken when I was playing around with this. I have new ones now.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12x2-12V-EL...r=670899161119

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...fc8ef37c4e.jpg

Probably too late to help but I have the bulb polarities figured out for the instrument cluster. The letter represents the color of bulb.

PS. For anyone else, my main lighting bulbs were not sensitive to polarity, your results may vary.

Wow, this is great. I was having a hard time on a few of the polarities and was going to wait to get the car back and plug the harness in to confirm. I can already see by your information I have a few incorrect.

Thank you for sharing :cheers:

[QUOTE=DeWolf;14795720]My sills were broken when I was playing around with this. I have new ones now.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12x2-12V-EL...r=670899161119

Thanks DeWolf, Was looking around a little last night and found a write up on the install, but no information on the actual light.

get some mothers "plastic polish" and polish the clear plastic. It takes a bit of time but when its done, you really do "look through" the plastic like it isn't there. Combine it with the pop of the LEDs and it looks amazing. how was the install of the LEDS on the door sill.? Somehting Ive always wanted to do..

Hey Tony...already done. I choose to remove the unleaded sticker as well....came out crystal clear....thanks for the suggestion.

[QUOTE=Blagave;14795885]You have a link to the write up?

[QUOTE=Chris Lockhart;14796642]http://jenniskens.livedsl.nl/Technic...ationGuide.pdf

[QUOTE=Blagave;14796653]Thanks!!

Happy to help, but I heartily recommend testing first before installing the whole pod ;)

And replacing the odo gear now is a no brainer.

Do you know who sells the gears?

Thanks:cheers:

Damn that looks good!!! Nice job.

That really looks sharp. Do yourself a favor and replace your odometer gear while you are in there if you haven't already. The OEM ones crumble to dust. Roger and I both stock them.
I have LED light kits for the instrument cluster too, if you want.

Again - really sharp instrument pod - nice job!

Thanks for the suggestions......both the gear and LED lights have been done a few posts ago. :)

Thanks Chris :cheers:

Looking the body work pics I wonder how it would look with shaved door handles and then a door popper kit installed.

Thought you'd be done by now. :corn:

The rain rails should really be removed.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...e5c2c47fc6.jpg
Lance, Soon...thats going to be one sweet ride. May want to consider raising up and reinforcing your center armrest WYIT as previously done on Just Peachy and Just Beachy.:burnout: Thttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...dcfb834f24.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...94ef625df6.jpg

Hi Tony,
your interior is gorgeous, looks like a jewelry store.....very nice. I am sticking with the standard black......boring, but clean.
I like what you did with the armrest. Did you make a new bottom piece on the armrest or add on? How much height did you add?

Glad to see this thread pop back up!

Thanks to Paul Champagne for Just Beachy and Rob Budd for Just Peachy.
Contact Paul or Rob ^^ for a raised armrest base or just fabricate one....you have the skills :burnout: T