BC

What kind of actuators are those for the locks?

Blagave

Thanks Steve for the offer. I think Carl has found one, but if not, We will get back with you.

Blagave

A1 Electric. They have many actuator kits to choose from. I bought 1989 928 door assemblies per ( Just Peachy & FLYVMO) thread outline.

https://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2...Code=W01F-712T

Blagave

Steve it looks like your bell housing is welded on. Can you check and see if it welded or if it is bolted on. It should look like the pictures.

Thanks

Lloyd

Your project is going great!! I'm very impressed with the creativity and technical expertise. Given a factory manual and a list of factory part numbers, most people can restore a car, ..... but it takes guts, vision, confidence, and big ***** to chop up a car and transform it (correctly) into a whole different mechanical masterpiece. My 78 track car started a radical transformation almost 15 years ago, but your car certainly has mine beat!!

Shawn Stanford

OMFG! "This plastic radiator tank is crap, so I'll just whip one up out of sheet aluminum in my garage in an afternoon."

I officially hate you.

Blagave

Thanks for the kind words, but to be perfectly honest, Dinsdale, 77Tony & FLYVMO have paved the way to make things go much faster and easier for guys like me. The reason for my thread is to give back since I am benefiting from the others.

Blagave

Ok....made me laugh early in the morning....well done

Carl Fausett

Lance - I found the right replacement bell housing and it is on its way to you.

Blagave

Thank you Carl, appreciate the speed in which you handle this.

Blagave

Mounted the metal trans mount to modified stock aluminum cross member to trans. There are a few steps in attaching the new aluminum mounts to transmission which isn’t to difficult, but drilling the additional bolt holes can be challenging. I used a right angle drill with 1/8th” pilot hole and the then drilled from opposite direction with larger drill. Also, you want to snug all the bolts and attach metal cross member in order to get everything to fit. After fittment, remove cross member and tighten bolts and reattach cross member. I am using a hydraulic motorcycle lift stand to help me raise and lower the trans and torque tube in position. I do 99% of my build by myself, so this helps me out, can’t imagine how the other guys do if without.

Eplebnista

Wow. Up until now I was sure my ex-wife was the world's greatest fabricator....

Imo000

Those are the cleanest work shoes I've ever seen.

Blagave

LOL....I just got these. My wife couldn't stand my garage shoes, which were pretty bad and picked these up...costco specials!!

Blagave

Well, after a full day and 3 times in and out, I finally got the trans and torque tube in place.
The resason for the drive train going in so many times is to see where it hits the tunnel. You have to bend the heat shield tabs up so the TT will clear. You also need to cut a couple ears off the differential and take a large hammer and pound some clearance in the tunnel. I am doing a rear seat delete so the little intrusion is not an issue in the rear seat area and doubt it would effect the rear seat pads. The differential comes very close to the the battery box and scraped my aluminum cover. Pissed me off so I cut the corner of the battery box out and plasma cut a piece of tubing in half and welded in. You don’t have to do this, I just wanted the clearance.
Still need to hang suspension, the new mounts are very close to the inboard CV flange.