928 Pro Tour LS3 / Z06 Build
#121
What kind of actuators are those for the locks?
#122
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#123
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A1 Electric. They have many actuator kits to choose from. I bought 1989 928 door assemblies per ( Just Peachy & FLYVMO) thread outline.
https://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2...Code=W01F-712T
https://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2...Code=W01F-712T
#124
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Thanks
#125
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Your project is going great!! I'm very impressed with the creativity and technical expertise. Given a factory manual and a list of factory part numbers, most people can restore a car, ..... but it takes guts, vision, confidence, and big ***** to chop up a car and transform it (correctly) into a whole different mechanical masterpiece. My 78 track car started a radical transformation almost 15 years ago, but your car certainly has mine beat!!
#126
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#127
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Your project is going great!! I'm very impressed with the creativity and technical expertise. Given a factory manual and a list of factory part numbers, most people can restore a car, ..... but it takes guts, vision, confidence, and big ***** to chop up a car and transform it (correctly) into a whole different mechanical masterpiece. My 78 track car started a radical transformation almost 15 years ago, but your car certainly has mine beat!!
#128
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#130
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#131
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Mounted the metal trans mount to modified stock aluminum cross member to trans. There are a few steps in attaching the new aluminum mounts to transmission which isn’t to difficult, but drilling the additional bolt holes can be challenging. I used a right angle drill with 1/8th” pilot hole and the then drilled from opposite direction with larger drill. Also, you want to snug all the bolts and attach metal cross member in order to get everything to fit. After fittment, remove cross member and tighten bolts and reattach cross member. I am using a hydraulic motorcycle lift stand to help me raise and lower the trans and torque tube in position. I do 99% of my build by myself, so this helps me out, can’t imagine how the other guys do if without.
#134
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#135
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Well, after a full day and 3 times in and out, I finally got the trans and torque tube in place.
The resason for the drive train going in so many times is to see where it hits the tunnel. You have to bend the heat shield tabs up so the TT will clear. You also need to cut a couple ears off the differential and take a large hammer and pound some clearance in the tunnel. I am doing a rear seat delete so the little intrusion is not an issue in the rear seat area and doubt it would effect the rear seat pads. The differential comes very close to the the battery box and scraped my aluminum cover. Pissed me off so I cut the corner of the battery box out and plasma cut a piece of tubing in half and welded in. You don’t have to do this, I just wanted the clearance.
Still need to hang suspension, the new mounts are very close to the inboard CV flange.
The resason for the drive train going in so many times is to see where it hits the tunnel. You have to bend the heat shield tabs up so the TT will clear. You also need to cut a couple ears off the differential and take a large hammer and pound some clearance in the tunnel. I am doing a rear seat delete so the little intrusion is not an issue in the rear seat area and doubt it would effect the rear seat pads. The differential comes very close to the the battery box and scraped my aluminum cover. Pissed me off so I cut the corner of the battery box out and plasma cut a piece of tubing in half and welded in. You don’t have to do this, I just wanted the clearance.
Still need to hang suspension, the new mounts are very close to the inboard CV flange.