CVR_Rally

Now that the clutch is done I'm putting new rear bearings in the 87. I have all the tools to pull the bearing out and I see Clark's Garage just has you bang them out from the inside.

My other thought was to temporarily install the axle and have a gear puller push against it with my gear puller. The Boxster's hub comes out this way.

Chris

tempest411

Arnnworx makes a very nice tool for the job. They ship quickly as well.

odonnell

Just FYI you can rent a slide hammer for free at your FLAPS.

fiily

Funny you bring up this thread as I am in the middle of replacing both rear wheel bearings on the 85.5 as they are loud.

As other have mentioned, rent a hub puller from the FLAPS. I attached the one I rented to the hub and 3 pulls popped it out. I also ordered the RBT tool from Bruce aka Arnworx as I tried to press out the bearings using some piping and it's just wasn't worth the hassle and I'll be done in 5 min.

I have air tools so loosening of the axle nut was a breeze and putting it back on will be just as easy.

Make sure to replace your axle nuts, they are throw-aways after removing them. Torque to 368ft#, and reverse what you removed.

CVR_Rally

I have a puller but without the axle installed there's nothing to push against so I may just stick it back in. I ended up ordering a slide hammer (just good to have one) but not sure if it will get here soon enough. Luckily I have the bearing tool (the multiple size kit) that I bought when I did the Boxster.

Pardon my ignorance but what is FLAPS?

Van

Friendly Local Auto Parts Store

jhowell371

FLAPS? UP or down? How many degrees do you want ? OK, took me a minute to figure that one that out

FRporscheman

Using a gear puller and pressing against the axle will probably result in pushing the axle out. I'm assuming you're talking about the stub axle. If you want to put in the actual axle with CV joints to hold the stub axle in, that's a bad idea, the CVs will take a lot of stress in a way that they're not designed to do.

The torque of 368 is only for early suspensions with steel trailing arms. For later cars with aluminum trailing arms the torque is 250 lb-ft.

+1 for the Arnnworx tool. It works flawlessly and makes the job waaay easier. As a bonus, after using this tool you can skip your next "arm day" at the gym!

divil

Anyone have a link to this tool? I have the Arnnworx tool for pulling the bearing out, and it's great. But I didn't know they made one for removing the hub too. (I rented a slide hammer from Autozone).

CVR_Rally

I think people are confusing the hub with the bearing. I have the kit that has multiple sizes for the bearing (bought it when I did the Boxster).

fiily

The hub get's removed using the slide hammer/puller, the rbt tool from arnworx removes the wheel bearing and presses it into the bore of the trailing arm. Use a bearing splitter to remove the inner race of the bearing from the inside of the hub flange.


http://www.arnnworx.com/RearBearings.htm

g-50cab

You need the tool - it helps install too without trashing the bearings

CVR_Rally

That's backwards. According to Clarks Garage aluminum is torqued to 368 ft lbs.


I finish one side. To get the hub out all I had to do was take the socket I used to remove the axle nut and tap out the hub from the inside. It's the perfect size! about 5 hits with the hammer and it was out. Super easy.

FRporscheman

I just checked the FWSM, and you're right, the aluminum arm cars take 368 lbft and the early cars take 280 + 52 lbft. Thanks for the correction.