Connecting rod hardware issue
#17
Instructor
Michael,
I have my S2 at Koby motors, spun #2 bearing. They offered me turbo connecting rods, they have tons of them and will probably sell you a pair. I also have a set of nuts for the S2 from Vertex I'm not going to use and you can have them if they fit 951's. I bought a set of raceware bolts and nuts.
Cheers,
David
I have my S2 at Koby motors, spun #2 bearing. They offered me turbo connecting rods, they have tons of them and will probably sell you a pair. I also have a set of nuts for the S2 from Vertex I'm not going to use and you can have them if they fit 951's. I bought a set of raceware bolts and nuts.
Cheers,
David
#19
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the offers guys, I'll chew on them.
This morning I received the following reply from Race Engineering:
"Michael,
The Rods are supplied with an ARP 2000 Cap Screw installed.
The Rods are designed for use of a OE Bearing
the Rod is a Forging but all surfaces of the rod are machined. This would qualify them
to be termed a billet
Hope this helps answer your questions"
This morning I received the following reply from Race Engineering:
"Michael,
The Rods are supplied with an ARP 2000 Cap Screw installed.
The Rods are designed for use of a OE Bearing
the Rod is a Forging but all surfaces of the rod are machined. This would qualify them
to be termed a billet
Hope this helps answer your questions"
#20
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Michael - I contacted Tom Molnar about these rods carried by Race Eng.
They have his full endorsement and he says they are one of his best dealers.
You may notice that the RaceEng rods are $200+ less than other vendors for the same rods.
The reason is the $600 rods are "PCA legal" by which they are the same weight as stock 951 rods to make them a racing-legal substitute part.
The $400 rods are about 140 grams lighter than the PCA rods but are otherwise dimensionally identical - less material, less "certification" means less cost.
They are the real deal...
They have his full endorsement and he says they are one of his best dealers.
You may notice that the RaceEng rods are $200+ less than other vendors for the same rods.
The reason is the $600 rods are "PCA legal" by which they are the same weight as stock 951 rods to make them a racing-legal substitute part.
The $400 rods are about 140 grams lighter than the PCA rods but are otherwise dimensionally identical - less material, less "certification" means less cost.
They are the real deal...
#21
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Wow, I would have to be moron then to pay more for heavier rods
I emailed back asking for their recommended torque specs, just to have on hand. It looks like it's happening!
I know they're lighter, now I'm just curious what power they can take before crapping out.
I'm debating also getting new pistons since I'm about to have the bottom end apart again, but I don't see the point if mine are in good condition. Just a little wary of the coating being worn off on the skirts potentially. If there are <$500 piston options out there, I'm ears.
I emailed back asking for their recommended torque specs, just to have on hand. It looks like it's happening!
I know they're lighter, now I'm just curious what power they can take before crapping out.
I'm debating also getting new pistons since I'm about to have the bottom end apart again, but I don't see the point if mine are in good condition. Just a little wary of the coating being worn off on the skirts potentially. If there are <$500 piston options out there, I'm ears.
#23
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I'll pass. At this point I'm just butthurt that I have to mess with the stupid wrist pin retaining clips again. Somehow, the worst part of the entire project so far. Pulling the engine literally took less time than doing all 8 of them.
#24
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
last year (?) i had a set of 944 JE pistons on Carillo rods that used the same type of circlip.
i just used one of the picks in this kit from HF...you sort of nudge the clip towards the "corner hole" and pry at it until it pops up and just work it out.
don't think it took more than 1-2 minutes per piston?
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...set-66836.html
i just used one of the picks in this kit from HF...you sort of nudge the clip towards the "corner hole" and pry at it until it pops up and just work it out.
don't think it took more than 1-2 minutes per piston?
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...set-66836.html
#25
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I have that HF set. They suck! Bent them all within minutes when prying out seals. For the clips, pulling them out takes no time at all. It's the installation that makes me want to throw the engine in the dumpster.
#26
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
It's not that hard once you get a feel, I install them with fingers, small flat screwdriver and old piston pin. Had no problems with them but they are kind of pita the first time.
#30
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Yeah. I ended buying those Molnars, that's too good a deal for me to ignore.
Now I want to replace 2 of the pistons...so if anyone has a couple orphaned 951 group 1 pistons holla atcha boy.
Now I want to replace 2 of the pistons...so if anyone has a couple orphaned 951 group 1 pistons holla atcha boy.