V2Rocket

...sprocket on backwards?

MistaX

This is without the sprocket even on, just the PS bracket bolted to that other bit that goes on the front of the BS housing.

V2Rocket

...hm
remove the "angle brace" that connects the PS bracket to the BS cover.
loosen the 3 bolts holding the PS bracket to the front of the BS cover, give it a wiggle, and then re-tighten. do not re-install the "angle brace".
does the shaft move freely now?

MistaX

I think I got it. Took out all the bolts entirely, finger tightened them in order, used a wrench and checked on every 1/4 turn on each one. The torque specs are not a suggestion but a rule, any single bolt could bind it if even a hair over-tightened.

V2Rocket

I dunno...I've never been super careful with doing covers, just bang em in, torque to spec and move on, not had a binding issue unless the sprocket was accidentally put on backwards.

I don't recall off hand...does your engine have the rear BS bearing integral to the BS cover or is it the separate bearing cap/saddle?

MistaX

It's integral. At least the top one was. I didn't get the lower cover that far off the car to be able to flip it around.

Why it seems to be binding is that it's fighting gravity, the BS shaft is loose in the housing, so it wants to fall out.

odonnell

When that happened to me on my turbo motor it was because that black O-ring that seals the front housing had caught a little, I couldn't even see it. But it was enough to upset the alignment of the shaft and it was stuck. I think the earlier style is more sensitive to stuff like that.

MistaX

I finally got it running again. I think the main issue is fixed, it revs smooth and quick with no hesitation.
But now it pisses oil out of the lower balance shaft housing, of course. Not sure if I have to take everything apart again or what at this point.

Never actually going to get this car back on the road.

MistaX

Nevermind. I drove it after letting it idle, and re-torquing the balance shaft cover bolts when hot. Burnt my hands in the process. Lessened the leak but it's still there. Enough to leave a spot when parked for ~30 minutes.
Yeah, it's fixed. And now I understand why this whole process was worth it. It runs perfectly. No misfires, no hesitation, no stutters, no drama to speak of all the way to 120mph.
Glad I worked out the main problem that caused me to start the thread. It was a vacuum leak. Many. Along with a possibly bad FPR/Damper combination. My idle fuel pressure is lower than it used to be, and raises with revs. It used to be solid and never change.

Thanks everybody who offered suggestions and helped along the way, especially to Spencer and Squid924 for providing parts.

The car is drivable with the NA-Tune thanks to you guys. Still a lot of fine tuning to do, the DME Logger isn't yet hooked up, Wideband still doesn't work, etc. But it'll get there. I un-surrender.

Tiger03447

Glad that you got it running again...Still concerned that you have binding in the lower balance shaft arrangement. I presume that you put all the proper seals, including the ghost seal back in the proper order? strange.

MistaX

Everything was together correctly, in the right order. It was definitely binding on the cover itself, and I left it loose (too loose?) during final assembly and setting the timing. Certainly played a big part in the leak. I was concerned that it would bind again after re-torquing the bolts to fix the leak, but I fired it up anyway and the balance shaft belt didn't break so I assume it's good.

Will probably have to go through that again in order to really fix the leak. But for now I just want to drive it. Been on jack stands way too long.

944ajt

V2Rocket - Sorry to dig up a super old forum post - but I REALLY love your engine bay set up. I'm about to install the MAF in my 944 NA (1986). What is that filter and the intake tube you used? I realize this is a faux-pas of "hot air" versus the stock intake, but I'm hoping to be able to fabricate my own way to seal off the cone filter from the rest of the engine bay, and ultimately I love how clean this is (I'm guessing it sounds great too). Any tips on those two parts would be great! Thanks!

V2Rocket

in order:
- factory J boot
- the NA-tune MAF housing
- AFM-> 3" round adapter (you can get these on ebay)
- 3" ID long leg 45 silicone hose
- aluminum 3" ID, 4.5" OD bell mouth (found this on ebay too)
- 4.5" ID cone filter (ebay)

cant help with links since this was like 10 years ago

also, regarding the "hot air" comment - i checked on that back in the day. the IAT only rises when you are sitting at a long traffic light. as soon as i started moving again the IAT went back to ambient temp, immediately. im sure a shield would do good though.

944ajt

Awesome - Thank you!

Did you have to do any adjustment to the light bracket or anything for the cone filter to fit?

V2Rocket

I think by then I had cut the back off the headlight bracket thing.