tj90

So I've been trying to figure out how to connect my sway to the front control arms. My setup is definitely not stock. I found a disconnected end link zip tied to the 28.7 mm dia bar. Anyway I've ordered new end links from Weltmeister - pictured next to the original end links - and I think I can make this work. I'm missing a bracket to the a arm and there are no bushes on the end links. Is not having bushes on the end links going to be a disaster? Any ideas how to connect to the a arms?

V2Rocket

for that style end link you should be able to use a 924 swaybar-to-arm bracket.

tj90

Thanks Spencer. I found a thread that discusses this sway - it looks like a weltmeister. The early kit is 904795 (alloy is 904796).

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...-sway-bar.html

I cant call weltmeister direct - it looks like ecklers bought them out and the operators try to be helpful but they dont know porsche...I am thinking that Im going to have to fab that bracket myself. I can maybe use something like this to fab a custom bracket to the a-arm. Maybe put some polyurethane bushings between the arms and u-bracket?

Jason @ Paragon Products

Looks like you bought the competition drop links which is ok. Here's our diagram of the later bar for cars with aluminum arms:

http://www.paragon-products.com/Welt...%20sb-5400.htm

On the steel arms like yours there are poly bushing plates that go above and below the control arm. Give me a call and we can inventory the missing stuff.

KevinGross

Yes, looks like Weltmeister. Jason can hook you up with the missing parts.

I am not a big fan of the Weltmeister kit and while I retain the bars on my own car, have superseded most everything else. I would check the heim joints to see who made 'em, replace them with proper Aurora (for example) heims if quality is suspect. I use airframe bolts, washers, and locknuts instead of the no-name stuff Weltmeister gives you. Pegasus sells what they call "safety washers" which I use between the heim and the bracket ears, see here.

Definite problem: the way the bracket attaches to the front frame rails puts point-stresses on the rail and will crack it. Happened to me (and others) and I had my shop weld the rail to repair. The cure was to shorten the stand-offs by 1/4" and insert a 1/4" thick pillow block between the rail and stand-offs. I used a lathe to trim the stand-offs, and the pillow block is just cut from 1/4" bar stock. I can dig out photos of the failure if interesting to you.

When installing, you need to set up the drop links with weight on the wheel so that you can align the heim joints and remove any preload. Heim joints have 1/10 the spec strength off-axis, so if they are not aligned, they will break. Not sure how well the Weltmeister paperwork describes this.

BTW, for the rears you can make a similar "competition" drop link simply by combining a 1/2" heim with a female shank (Aurora AW-8T, eg) with a 7/16" male with 1/2" "oversized" shank (eg, Aurora XAM-7T). Witha jam nut. Baker Precision is a good, inexpensive supplier for rod ends. Good luck!

odonnell

Do you need the 924 drop links? I have a set.

tj90

Thanks for the information. I am interested in seeing the failure as well as seeing this pillow block mod if you have the pics. Who knows, maybe my car has this failure and that is why my do links were disconnected in the first place? UPDATE: I checked the frame and I cant see any cracks. I can visualize the pillow block that your talking about. Did you attach the spacer to the frame thru bolts or welding? Or did you just cut a hole large eough for the 2 bolts to feed through? Thank you Jason for sourcing the missing bits!