How deep do I go on a front engine seal/waterpump replacement job
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
How deep do I go on a front engine seal/waterpump replacement job
All: Im in the middle of a water pump / seal replacement job. The engine showed evidence of severe oil leaking through the years. I want to attempt to replace all seals on the front of the engine during a water pump and timing belt replacement. I have a few questions.
On the camshaft drive exploded diagram (sorry they need to be rotated CW 90 degrees), I was wondering if its normal to replace #23 o-ring? I was also wondering if there are any o-rings that are not shown behind the crankshaft seal. From the picture of the engine, it looks like there is a removable housing.
Also, is it normal to replace #9 (99970165204) on the second diagram?
On the camshaft drive exploded diagram (sorry they need to be rotated CW 90 degrees), I was wondering if its normal to replace #23 o-ring? I was also wondering if there are any o-rings that are not shown behind the crankshaft seal. From the picture of the engine, it looks like there is a removable housing.
Also, is it normal to replace #9 (99970165204) on the second diagram?
#3
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Thanks @thomasmryan. I would have ordered the kit, but my parts source said they were out of stock so he helped me piecemeal it together since the individual pieces were in stock. Your picture helps me as I see what you mean. Those backside O-rings on the lower balance shaft and upper camshaft do get replaced. It looks like there is no o-ring equivalent on the crankshaft so Ill leave that cover alone despite it looking like it can be removed..
#4
Drifting
I would not remove the oil pump cover. It is also wise to replace the oil pump drive and balance shaft races if they show wear from the seals.
The radial seal holds the oil on the outside of the oil pump gear drive. the bottom oring in the picture holds the oil between the crank and the oil pump drive gear. The green orings are preferred.
The radial seal holds the oil on the outside of the oil pump gear drive. the bottom oring in the picture holds the oil between the crank and the oil pump drive gear. The green orings are preferred.
#5
Pro
Hard to know where the line is, it's a slippery slope.
Yeah, normal to replace the O-rings (#23 and #9). Cheap enough.
It's almost universally recommended to replace the camshaft bolt with a new one.
Check the oil-pump drive gear - there shouldn't be a groove which gets worn-in over time from the seal. See Van's video (and enjoy his calm, steady voice)
Things like resealing the oil pump cover could be ignored in the past, but these are 30 year old cars now so we're going to witness new waves of failures just due to age.
I did all the front seals last fall and then realized a few months later that my oil pump 'cover' was also leaking. It requires a special Permatex that isn't cheap. Get the right one per the shop manual (or Clarks garage). If I recall correctly, it also requires lowering the oil pan slightly, which then leads to maybe replacing that gasket, and while you're in there, replacing the rod bearings, motor mounts, rebuilding the steering rack, etc, etc.
If you're super keen, you can do the balance shaft covers using the same Permatex stuff.
Yeah, normal to replace the O-rings (#23 and #9). Cheap enough.
It's almost universally recommended to replace the camshaft bolt with a new one.
Check the oil-pump drive gear - there shouldn't be a groove which gets worn-in over time from the seal. See Van's video (and enjoy his calm, steady voice)
Things like resealing the oil pump cover could be ignored in the past, but these are 30 year old cars now so we're going to witness new waves of failures just due to age.
I did all the front seals last fall and then realized a few months later that my oil pump 'cover' was also leaking. It requires a special Permatex that isn't cheap. Get the right one per the shop manual (or Clarks garage). If I recall correctly, it also requires lowering the oil pan slightly, which then leads to maybe replacing that gasket, and while you're in there, replacing the rod bearings, motor mounts, rebuilding the steering rack, etc, etc.
If you're super keen, you can do the balance shaft covers using the same Permatex stuff.