Question about gapping speed and reference sensors.
#1
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Location: Austin TX, drinking beer in the garage
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Question about gapping speed and reference sensors.
I have a question guys. I'm about to bolt the reference sensor back onto the bellhousing, and I have a gapping tool made from an old sensor with a .8mm thick washer glued to the bottom. Tool has worked great in the past but it's been a long time since I've had to use it. The reference pins stick proud of the edge of the flywheel by ~4mm. That being said, does that mean that when I install the bracket and gap the sensors that I need to have the sensor directly over one of the pins? If I don't position it directly over the pins and set the clearance .8mm from the smooth part of of the flywheel, wont the pin and the sensor still have ~3.2mm interference fit and therefore the flywheel will smash the sensors? Am I missing something here?
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I just thought, is the bracket designed in such a way that if I set the speed sensor (the rearmost of the two) so it's .8mm from the ring gear teeth, will that automatically ensure that the reference sensor is the proper clearance from the pin on the flywheel, assuming the pin is at the correct height?
#5
No, because the reference pin is adjustable. It may end up being more or less than 0.8mm when the other sensor is 0.8mm away from flywheel teeth. Best to rotate crank so you can check spacing on both.
#6
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Here is the procedure... you DONT gap the reference sensor for that very reason.. the pins are only in a few places. I think there's only one pin actually inline with that sensor.
Instead, you gap the speed sensor, where there is a 100% chance of there being ring gear teeth below your tool. You set THAT gap to 0.8mm. The geometry of the bracket allows there to also be 0.8 on the reference sensor, assuming you didn't play with pin height.
Instead, you gap the speed sensor, where there is a 100% chance of there being ring gear teeth below your tool. You set THAT gap to 0.8mm. The geometry of the bracket allows there to also be 0.8 on the reference sensor, assuming you didn't play with pin height.
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jjbunn (11-30-2019)
#7
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Here is the procedure... you DONT gap the reference sensor for that very reason.. the pins are only in a few places. I think there's only one pin actually inline with that sensor.
Instead, you gap the speed sensor, where there is a 100% chance of there being ring gear teeth below your tool. You set THAT gap to 0.8mm. The geometry of the bracket allows there to also be 0.8 on the reference sensor, assuming you didn't play with pin height.
Instead, you gap the speed sensor, where there is a 100% chance of there being ring gear teeth below your tool. You set THAT gap to 0.8mm. The geometry of the bracket allows there to also be 0.8 on the reference sensor, assuming you didn't play with pin height.
Pretty much what I thought Michael. I'm using the flywheel from the old motor so the pin height isn't a factor. Procedure is: insert gapping tool into rear spot (speed sensor), tighten bracket, remove tool, insert sensors, enjoy beer.
Michael, the trans is back in and everything is together. Tomorrow I will bolt the manifolds on and put the new radiator in and start it up!
Oh yeah, and gap the sensors!
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#8
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I used a spark plug gap tool to set the gap and tightened the set screw. I haven't started the engine yet so if I've done it wrong it would be great to hear about it now...
#9
Rennlist Member
It's technically speed and reference, since there are missing teeth (you're reading a dedicated tooth pattern in the 16v cars, unlike the starter ring in the 8v cars). You gapped the correct wheel, unless you got unlucky and found the spot where there are missing teeth...