AndyK

Hey Z-
When you manually lock or unlock your doors (by pushing down the buttons), do your LED's go on and off? If I'm sitting in the car, and I press the electronic lock button on the console, my LED's start flashing, like the alarm has been activated.

Z-man

Andy: I always use the key, but I'll check at lunch what happens if I push the button down manually & what happens if I hit the toggle on the console.

-Z.

AndyK

Great, thanks!
PS--I am bringing my car to Powertech tomorrow!

Marc Gelefsky

Hey, good luck with that

AndyK

The way my repair-bill luck has been going, I'll need it!

Tom R.

i dont think i was able to lock the doors with either the button or swithch with the door open. had to use the key.

a way to test it andy is to lock the doors with the window open. then open the door from the inside. if the alarm sounds, viola you are in luck.

AndyK

No, I can't push the button down with the driver door open...it wont let you lock yourself out that way.

I am just trying to figure out how this alarm would prevent theft? With the doors locked, if someone climbs into a broken window, is the DME disabled, preventing starting completely, unless the door is un-locked via a key??

Leave it to Porsche!?

Tom R.

Here is how it worked in my mazda
if the alarm is activated the ignition is killed. the car wont start with the key. the only way to deactivate the alarm is by turning the key in the drivers door. now the fun part. the alarms on of switch was activated by the passenger door lock which was a slave to the drivers door. unlike the porsche where opening one door opens both.

here is how the python in the camaro works.
unless i lock the door with a remote clicker there is no ignition kill. if i lock the door with the key out of the ignition using the remote the anti theft is activated. the motor will not start with the key unless the remote unlocks the doors with the key out of the ignition.

I triggered the porsche's alarm like Z once by opening the trunk with the key. i think you have to wait a short time between locking the door and unlocking the trunk.

AndyK

It would be MUCH easier with a remote. Alarm goes off, push the remote button, all is cool again!

The factory alarm is FREE. Otherwise, I would go spend the money and get a keyless entry/remote alarm installed. Still, I would rather not have some shop run a bunch of wires all over the place, tapping into the battery.

Perry 951

Lots of questions about the factory alarm. Let me see if I can help -

1. When the alarm is activated and triggered, it cuts ground to the DME relay until it is reset.
2. There are contact switches in the doors, one for the hood, and yes, one in the hatch. There should be a ground wire going to the passenger hatch strut. When it is 3/4 of the way extended, the piston in the strut will begin to contact the housing, causing a ground path. This should trigger the alarm.
3. You cannot lock the drivers door while it is open. It is to prevent you from locking the keys in the car.
4. Early alarms are activated with a key on the quarter panel, late ones activated with micro switches in the handle.
5. A common failure point is the alarm relay box (black 2 plug box by the DME). Open it up and check solder connections and copper tracers.

Kill Switches:

Here's specifically why I would not tap into the fuel pump circuit. Over time, switches will build corrosion and begin to wear out. The corrosion will increase the resistance going to the pump, and drop the voltage as well. If that voltage drops to 10v at the pump, you can reduce flow about 15%. Try blasting full boost down the front stretch of Mid Ohio and cut fuel 15%. Not good. Also, think of that same situation and accidentally bumping the switch. You'll have about 2 seconds of fuel until you suck the pressure out of the system. While that happens, you'll lean out enough to hurt parts. Most small switches are not ment to carry high current. This can pit the contacts and begin an intermittant cutout. Again, if that happens, you'll go lean.

Now.. for the 30 seconds of a thief cranking the car and trying to fill my oil pan with gas. Did you know the DME will shut off fuel after 3-4 seconds of cranking? Even if he cycled the punched out ignition a few times, it would not do much harm at all. Running too rich at 5900rpm is totally different than cranking the car at 300rpm with too much fuel.

Comments, concerns?

sm

Is the coil ground wire at the DME box the thickest of the SOLID GREEN wires?

Also, will a 30 Amp relay be robust enough to carry the current that runs through the starter exciter wire (the red one leading from the white connector by the brake booster)? If so, I'm thinking about hooking my keyless entry unit's starter kill to this wire.

Perry 951

Yes... 30amps will be fine. Although.... it does not prevent them from pop starting it.

Coil ground is pin 1 on the DME. (thick green)

sm

Point well taken, which is why I'm going to do the starter kill AND your kill switch idea. Coupled with The Club (might get the clutch/brake pedal lock), I'm not sure what else there is to do.

I'm just trying to avoid removing the tape by the wires and pulling back that ultra stiff rubber boot. I'm pretty sure I know which wire it is and will confirm with a continuity test.

Perry 951

Splice it in an area that is hard to find. If someone knows a little about these cars, and wants to steal it, they'll check wires by the DME. If an obvious splice is right there in the open, they can trace the wires rather quickly, or cut and tie them together.

Make it look stock.

PJXJ

Hey, what happened to the removing the steering wheel idea? Someone shoudl be able to rig a quick disconnect setup to the stock wheel... I'd love to see someone get away without a wheel!