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I don't know much about Wheel Spacers

Old 02-21-2016, 06:21 PM
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bonus12
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Default I don't know much about Wheel Spacers

(Solution on page 2)

Hello, I'm looking into some spacers for my 1986 944 turbo with stock 16" phonedial wheels. I guess I have early offset being a 1986 turbo. This 1986 turbo, pictured, is not my car but my car's stance looks just like this, and you can see what I'd like to improve.

I'm thinking 21mm spacers in the rear and perhaps 7mm in front just to better capture the lines and (maybe) notice and improvement in handling.
Just wondering if this sounds right? Will I need longer lug bolts? If yes, what kind?

As always, the help is valued.
Thanks and happy driving/wrenching.


Last edited by bonus12; 03-04-2016 at 11:55 PM.
Old 02-21-2016, 06:35 PM
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acropora157
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A more conservative estimate would be 7MM front and 15 MM rear. Look to purchase hub centric spacers for the rear. They have an added rim which extends the hub, allowing the wheel to be partially supported by the spacer. Up front with 7MM spacers, the wheels will rest on the hub as is. FWIW I use aluminum inexpensive spacers from eBay. Up front, they are basically a large washer anyway.
Old 02-21-2016, 06:48 PM
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bonus12
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Thanks. I definitely don't want any rubbing and could go with 15mm in the rear if that's the case but 21mm might be preferred if not.
What's a hub centric spacer? Is that the adapter type with its own bolts?
Would a genuine Porsche 21mm spacer work for the rear or is that not "hub centric"?
Old 02-21-2016, 07:59 PM
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TurnerJ
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I think the way to go is to use the factory rear spacers and wheel studs that were used on the early 944s and put them on the rear of your 86 turbo. Should be able to find someone parting out a car and pick them up for about $60. I meant to install the set that I got for my 86 turbo but didn't get around to it today. I'm also putting a pair of rear 8 inch phonedials as my front wheels.
Old 02-21-2016, 11:35 PM
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odonnell
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There are factory installed rear spacers, 21mm thick. If you add more than 7mm or so on top of this, you'll run out of thread (you want the lug nuts to turn 6+ times before bottoming out when all is said and done, to make sure they're on there properly).

If you can't do that, a trick is to use bolt-on spacers. They eliminate the need for longer studs but are more expensive.
Old 02-22-2016, 12:14 AM
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I'm understanding more but I am surprised there are stock spacers in the rear on my car? Haven't noticed those. I was actually looking into buying a pair of genuine 21mm spacers but if I already have those I am pretty sure I'll have to look into one of the two options above to move forward.
Old 02-22-2016, 01:00 PM
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I think the stock spacers were eliminated in 85.5 and the rear spacing is a true 23 instead of using a spacer to get there like the early cars. If you can find someone with the studs and spacers from an early car you could use them to get your spacing.

edit: Confirmed. No more stock spacers after 85.5
Old 02-22-2016, 03:44 PM
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bonus12
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okay, looks like 2 genuine 21mm spacers can run $50, while a set of 10 studs can go for $80. Sorry for my ignorance, but how does the spacer attach with the studs?
Old 02-22-2016, 04:21 PM
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It doesn't attach, just a dumb spacer, but it fits VERY snugly. I generally have to hit it with a hammer to walk it off the hub.
Old 02-22-2016, 04:40 PM
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bonus12
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Originally Posted by konakat
It doesn't attach, just a dumb spacer, but it fits VERY snugly. I generally have to hit it with a hammer to walk it off the hub.
OK got it. So I would just need to replace my studs with longer ones from an early car, I take it? Just wanted to confirm this, too.
Old 02-22-2016, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by bonus12
OK got it. So I would just need to replace my studs with longer ones from an early car, I take it? Just wanted to confirm this, too.
Yep. The studs are pressed into the wheel hub. Press the old ones out and press the new ones in. If you don't use the longer studs you won't have enough thread engagement. Wouldn't hurt to switch to steel lug nuts, either. The weight difference is very small but the strength difference is not. I don't believe the alloy nuts are allowed at all in the various 944 racing series.
Old 02-22-2016, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by SloMo228
Yep. The studs are pressed into the wheel hub. Press the old ones out and press the new ones in. If you don't use the longer studs you won't have enough thread engagement. Wouldn't hurt to switch to steel lug nuts, either. The weight difference is very small but the strength difference is not. I don't believe the alloy nuts are allowed at all in the various 944 racing series.
Awesome. Thanks for everybody's help. At first it seems like basic info but when there is no room for error I couldn't help but start a thread.

Sounds like with early studs on the rear I can put on a 15mm or a 21 mm spacer depending on what I choose. Is it possible to buy steel lug nuts at a low price or are they always about $8 each? $80 for 10 stock studs seems steep. I would be fine with non-OEM steel studs if that could work. Obviously I won't skimp on quality here but if there's a cost-effective route, I'd like to take it.
What about the front? I could probably add a 7mm shim and keep the same studs, right? Maybe I'll do a test with some general washers to confirm. Thanks again to all!
Old 02-22-2016, 10:10 PM
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Old 02-22-2016, 11:18 PM
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Perfect! Thanks, Van, you da man.
Looks like I would possibly have to remove the hub to get some early studs on if they are too long. Van, would you know the maximum length a stud could be to fit in there with e-brake and hub installed? Do early studs fit?
Very helpful video.
Old 02-23-2016, 12:08 AM
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The car in the video is an '86, so the spacing should be the same as yours.

I'm going off memory here... but I think the cheap studs are 100mm long, but 90mm is the longest you can get in there through the parking brake cable hole (which, because it's a race car, I had already removed).

If you have to take the hub, off, you'll destroy the wheel bearing in the process - so just be prepared to replace them (and axle nuts).

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