Manning

Not the whole column, just the intermediate shaft between the column and the rack.

Sam Lin

Is it much more work after the rack is removed? Reason I ask is I need to remove my rack to rebuild it anyway - if this isn't much extra work, then I'd rather dump the power steering (assuming manual rack/column shaft are available).

Thanks
Sam

Manning

If you already have to remove the rack then you are half way there. The intermediate shaft is supposedly different (they do have different part numbers) and your supposed to use the one for a manual rack. It is kind of hard to get loose, but a good soaking with Liquid Wrench and a thick bladed screw driver will help get it off the splines (on the column shaft and the rack for that matter). When I did the convertion, I compared the shaft that came with my manual rack to the shaft that was on my car with power steering and they looked identical, or at least pretty freakin close. That is hard part number 1 (hitherto unknown to the people of these parts). Oh yeah, if the u-joints on the intermediate shaft are worn out, you need to buy a whole new intermediate shaft (regardless of whether you stick with power or manual) and they are about $250.00 new and are not rebuildable that I know of.

Hard part number two is the mount for the pump. I seem to recall having to drive out a sleeve to get it to drop free from the mount on the front of motor. Not a big deal.

Hard part number 3: The cooler loop was kind of a hassle to pull out of the front of the car without mangling it. Again, not a big deal.

Here's the bitch though; you ain't gonna find anyone to rebuild your manual rack if it wears out, and a lot of the ones I have seen for sale are really worn out.

Legoland951

My manual rack is in good shape but from the work involved since I still have good power steering, I am leaning towards selling my complete rack and intermediate shaft.....

Manning

Oh, oh, me, me, me. May I have first dibs, please? How much?

Legoland951

I will get rid of the entire assembly from tie rod to tie rod and the intermediate rod going from the rack to the steering column for $150. I figure I don't want to do extra work to rip out my good working power steering system when I don't need to for a few pounds of saving. From what everyone tells me, I can feel the difference in the steering response, but I am not that good of a driver yet and figure I need to work on my driving skills instead. PM me.

M758

If you want to race keep the manual rack. It will pay dividends! It will help your driving skill because of the feedback. You should save it and install it later on if you don't want to do the work now!

Legoland951

I am probably getting lazy and messing up my shoulder 2 days ago doesn't help the situation. Right now, the steering rack along with a spare short block and other miscellaneous parts are blocking the washer and dryer in the garage so I should put it in or lose it since the rest of the garage is totally full of stuff on top of 2 cars - sigh -.

RSflared72e

Poor man's manual steering: How I did it - created a short hose to bridge the two pressure fittings on the power rack, left as much fluid as possible in it, and sealed it up that way. I figure the fluid can recirculate, keeping the rack well lubricated. Works like a charm. Deleted the power steering pump, pulley, fluid lines, and reservior for a decent amount of weight loss, too....YMMV Al