944 Reliability and pitfalls
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
944 Reliability and pitfalls
Guys and girls, I spend most of my time in the 997 board but I just got a line on an interesting early 944 and wanted a quick lowdown on the basics of the cars.
What are the big problem areas and things to look out for, and what is the group's consensus on the overall reliability of a base, early car (I believe it's an '83.
I will be searching the forum tonight but I wonder if anyone can give me the Reader's Digest version?
Thanks in advance!
What are the big problem areas and things to look out for, and what is the group's consensus on the overall reliability of a base, early car (I believe it's an '83.
I will be searching the forum tonight but I wonder if anyone can give me the Reader's Digest version?
Thanks in advance!
#2
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I'm sure others will chime in with more useful info, but I am a 911 guy also who got a 944S2 6 years ago for daughter #1. it is now in the hands of daughter #2 and has needed nothing other than typical maintenance stuff for the 6 years we've had it. Every time I drive the car it amazes me how much car it is for the money. As for your question, some things to look (out) for are timing belts, rattling hatch, and worn motor mounts. you can live with the last two, but the first one is important to take care of.
#3
Drifting
Timing Belts and balance belts should be changed approximately every 30 to 40k miles or 4 yrs, whichever comes first. Water pump should be with every other set of belts. Spin the idlers and rollers and if they continue to spin, replace them. Look for leaks under the engine from the front and rear of engine. If there's one leak, others will surely follow as they are all rubber seals and when one is leaking (it's due to hardening from old age) all the others are as well. Best time to do all of the seals is when the front is exposed for belts. If there's oil leaks from between bell housing and the back of the engine, may likely have a rear crankshaft seal. Unfortunately, to replace a $10 part, the transaxle, torque tube, bell housing, clutch and exhaust system are all pulled (torque tube stays in but is pulled back about 18" and turned 180 degrees. This particular project, if you do it yourself if a b___h! Good opportunity to replace the clutch while you're in there though. Buy a couple of DME (fuel pump) relays and keep them in the glove box. When the car decided not to run, that's the first thing to go to. They're only about $25 apiece on Ebay. Have someone look at the ball joints in the front suspension. They have a history with the steel front suspension control arms. Read the forums religiously to get better educated on the vagaries of this fine automobile. Most of the items that you'll confront is covered in a site called Clark's Garage. Pull up the index page for easier navigation.
Good luck with this new adventure. I love these cars and after selling my '87 N/A last month I bought a white '86 944 turbo (951).
Good luck with this new adventure. I love these cars and after selling my '87 N/A last month I bought a white '86 944 turbo (951).
#5
1. Timing belt & water pump - Every 3-5 years.
2. Motor Mounts - bad if it has rough idle that smooths above 1200rpm.
3. Oil cooler seals - fail enough to be mentioned, but not a huge issue.
4. Clutch - Original rubber centered clutch is a ticking time bomb. Most have been replaced by now.
I could go on, but really these cars, especially the simpler 83-85 models, are reliable and very robust. Their survival rate today despite mostly horrid ownership is a testament to their build quality.
1983 was a great year for the 944 with manual steering, steel suspension, forged connecting rods, no brake pad sensors or cruise control, the charming early dash, and the lightest of the bunch. I've driven lots of vintage & exotics and still think a crisp, low mileage early 944 is hands down one of the most fun. Drive it and you'll understand!
Here's a very informative 944 buyer's guide:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/purchase.htm
2. Motor Mounts - bad if it has rough idle that smooths above 1200rpm.
3. Oil cooler seals - fail enough to be mentioned, but not a huge issue.
4. Clutch - Original rubber centered clutch is a ticking time bomb. Most have been replaced by now.
I could go on, but really these cars, especially the simpler 83-85 models, are reliable and very robust. Their survival rate today despite mostly horrid ownership is a testament to their build quality.
1983 was a great year for the 944 with manual steering, steel suspension, forged connecting rods, no brake pad sensors or cruise control, the charming early dash, and the lightest of the bunch. I've driven lots of vintage & exotics and still think a crisp, low mileage early 944 is hands down one of the most fun. Drive it and you'll understand!
Here's a very informative 944 buyer's guide:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/purchase.htm
#6
Rennlist Member
One thing I'll add is that you should inquire about the clutch. The NA cars have rubber centered disks and after 30 years of age/spirited driving/heat cycling the rubber center is liable to fail. It's an annoying job to DIY but certainly not crazy (just finished helping a buddy with a 951 local to me). Just be mentally prepared if it's stock. It's going to be at least $1000+ just in labor (minimum) to have a decent shop do it, or hours on your back swearing at seized fasteners if you DIY.
#7
Three Wheelin'
Fuel lines. Replace the rubber fuel lines. I'm not sure if they're different on the early cars, but check with Rennbay.
Also, I think this should be on everyone's checklist...don't buy a 944 without seeing what the area under the battery looks like. Trust me.
Also, I think this should be on everyone's checklist...don't buy a 944 without seeing what the area under the battery looks like. Trust me.
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#8
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One thing I'll add is that you should inquire about the clutch. The NA cars have rubber centered disks and after 30 years of age/spirited driving/heat cycling the rubber center is liable to fail. It's an annoying job to DIY but certainly not crazy (just finished helping a buddy with a 951 local to me). Just be mentally prepared if it's stock. It's going to be at least $1000+ just in labor (minimum) to have a decent shop do it, or hours on your back swearing at seized fasteners if you DIY.
a car that is so flawed,
in search for the answer, some have even blamed their own family of owners....
please read this thread cover to cover.
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...-of-trust.html
and an additional theory at post #48.
Last edited by odurandina; 03-02-2015 at 12:29 AM.
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
So the early 944 4 cylinder is an interference engine?
...And there's no way to get to the clutch without removing the transaxle and moving the torque tube?
...And there's no way to get to the clutch without removing the transaxle and moving the torque tube?
#11
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I wouldn't necessarily say 'high maintenance' but there are some periodic items to stay on top of: timing & balance shaft belts, water pump, clutch.
Important to look for: rust in battery tray, delaminated hatch, crusty fuel hoses from wheel well to engine.
The little and annoying, albeit fixable, issues: leaking PS, leaking oil pan, stripped sunroof gears, speed & reference sensors, dim instrument cluster lighting, return-to-idle shudder ('83-'85), weak hatch struts (don't just put on new ones because they may delaminate the hatch ).
These are very well made cars and usually pretty easy to tinker with. Major jobs are pretty involved, though.
Important to look for: rust in battery tray, delaminated hatch, crusty fuel hoses from wheel well to engine.
The little and annoying, albeit fixable, issues: leaking PS, leaking oil pan, stripped sunroof gears, speed & reference sensors, dim instrument cluster lighting, return-to-idle shudder ('83-'85), weak hatch struts (don't just put on new ones because they may delaminate the hatch ).
These are very well made cars and usually pretty easy to tinker with. Major jobs are pretty involved, though.
#12
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These cars do for sure have their pitfalls, most of which are outlined above. For example right now I'm getting in an out of mine dukes of hazard style however there is another side of the coin.
These cars if maintained, at least the NA, is bullet proof from a driving prospective. This darn thing has a big old radiator, oil cooler cooling 7 quarts of oil, 4 bolt mains, 4 bar of oil psi and a oil filter twice the size of the taurus edition balance shafts, a monolithic cam housing, the most robust pressure plate I've ever seen all to hold down 150hp... on a cold day....at sea level... with a bit of exaggeration. (yes 10 less horse power than a v6 camry)
It's cool to own a car that you can drive as hard as you want all the time and rest assured you aren't hurting it like you would be the honda equivalent. I'm pushing the 380,000 mile mark in my 944 and though I brake hard, punch it often, slide it around and generally drive it like I stole it; it seems unphased. It has the same compression it had when I bought it, the trans feels great, the suspension shows no accelerated wear. Though I don't abuse my car I love the freedom this car gives to use all it's potential without the risk that i am pushing it beyond it's engineered limits.
Happy driving good sir
These cars if maintained, at least the NA, is bullet proof from a driving prospective. This darn thing has a big old radiator, oil cooler cooling 7 quarts of oil, 4 bolt mains, 4 bar of oil psi and a oil filter twice the size of the taurus edition balance shafts, a monolithic cam housing, the most robust pressure plate I've ever seen all to hold down 150hp... on a cold day....at sea level... with a bit of exaggeration. (yes 10 less horse power than a v6 camry)
It's cool to own a car that you can drive as hard as you want all the time and rest assured you aren't hurting it like you would be the honda equivalent. I'm pushing the 380,000 mile mark in my 944 and though I brake hard, punch it often, slide it around and generally drive it like I stole it; it seems unphased. It has the same compression it had when I bought it, the trans feels great, the suspension shows no accelerated wear. Though I don't abuse my car I love the freedom this car gives to use all it's potential without the risk that i am pushing it beyond it's engineered limits.
Happy driving good sir
#13
Drifting
Oh, yes the battery box. Easy way to tell if it's an issue (which it likely is) Is to look at the forward firewall above the passenger footwell (behind the glove box) and you'll see rust stain running down the bulkhead. It's repairable if it's not totally rotted out. Search on the forums to see how people have dealt with it. I've done it.