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I have pulled everything back to and including the rear timing cover (944S2) and have found the following leaks: water pump, lower balance housing, lower balance seal, front crank shaft, oil cooler, valve cover, and oil pan. In what order would you tackle all of these leaks? I plan on replacing all of the front seals and sleeves where needed.
Check the rear crank seal and the oil pan gasket.
Is it an automatic or manual?
Power steering leaks?
Heater control valve--does it show white deposits?
CV joints and boots-leaking?
Clutch MC and slave.
Brake MC condition.
Check the rear crank seal and the oil pan gasket. Oil pan gasket is leaking but it is hard to tell if the rear crank seal is as well
Is it an automatic or manual? Manual
Power steering leaks? Around the resavoir and copper washers
Heater control valve--does it show white deposits? Unsure will have to check
CV joints and boots-leaking? No
Clutch MC and slave. Will have to check for leaks but function fine
Brake MC condition. Good
Mileage? 72,000
I just inherited this car (1990 S2 cab) and I am starting to solve all the leaks. It has been serviced by a dealer for its life and I am getting receipts this weekend to see what was done and when. I have been lurking here for a while and have an idea what to look for. The deeper I dig the more I am finding. I come from the subaru world so I am comfortable wrenching on an interference engine. I also know when to listen to others guidance.
Here's the deal (as I see it): anything rubber that leaks is an indicator species of all things rubber that are old, hard and leaking. Start at the front, bottom and work your way up and do them all. Then after you've done that, get a flourescent dye tracer kit at the auto parts store and put some in the engine oil (note: clean all the dirt and oil from around and under the engine). After a couple of a hundred miles of driving, use the magic glasses and the magic flashlight from the kit to search for dye traces, indicating the source of the rest of the leaks. The kit is cheap and very effective. If your rear main seal is leaking or the oil pan (or both) it will show up readily. Good luck.
Pulled all of the front end seals and will move on to the oil cooler and lower balance shaft next. It's just a matter of if I do it with the crossmember in place or not. I picked up a lisle shaft seal puller like below and man it worked really well. I drained the power steering system and pulled the resevoir. Next I am going to drop the pump and possibly rebuild and pull the front cover for the lower balance shaft. That should give me a good idea of if I can pull the oil cooler through the same opening. If I have to pull the exhaust manifold I will. I will update my progress and anything I've learned.
As is stated above, the loss of coolant can be more fatal since you may not have much warning of an overheating engine which can lead to expensive repairs. So, I'd put the water pump high on the list. The oil leaks, although they are a hassle, won't typically go so quickly as to be fatal, as long as you keep an eye on the oil level.
All will be replaced. I finally was able to look through the service records and found the timing and balance belts as well as the tensioner pulley was replaced at 46k miles. Which was in 1996 but the water pump has never been replaced. The other odd thing was the different oils used through the years (20w50->15w40->5w40). Also have the original boutique and accessories catalog and man Porsche had some cool apparel back in the day. Pulling all of the PS lines and taking them to a hydraulic shop to replace the rubber hose sections. Out of town this weekend and will have company in next but I will keep plugging away and will try to post some pics.
Edit: sorry the PS hose looks to be updated with the barb fitting in the top of the pump.
The weight of the oil isn't important but mixing brands and SAE standards of the oils, and dino vs synthetic is an issue. Please do replace all the seals and the water pump while you're doing the belts. It should be replaced at every other belt interval.
Pulled the lower balance shaft cover along with the power steering pump. I could not remove the front pump bushing without pulling the balance shaft cover and tapping it off. I also decided to drain the coolant and holy jeebers what a mess. took out the plug in the radiator, opened the bleed screw, and removed the cap from the over flow tank. That was not too bad and contained all of the coolant but I could tell all of it did not drain. So I decided to pull the elbow off the water pump that goes to the over flow tank. This is when it got messy. Coolant shot out like a horse relieving itself and hit the radiator. It then trickled down and some hit the pan while the rest hit the floor/cardboard box under the pan. A half a roll of paper towels later all was well. I put some CB blaster on all on the nuts and bolts for the water pump. I did not dare to start breaking the bolts loose. I have come up with a way to tether the engine while I pull the cross member as well. Chugging along and haven't stubbed my toe yet.............wood knocking sound.
Spared some time after work today. Crossed my fingers and pulled the water pump as well as the upper balance shaft housing. Luckily none of the bolts or studs snapped. I have to say pulling the balance shaft housings have been the hardest to pull out and maybe the crank seal is a close second. Will clean up the old gasket and start on the front engine seals and pump then move to the oil pan gasket. I have to start putting together a list of coolant hoses as well. To answer a previous question there are no deposits on the tube going to the heater core.Thought I would post a crappy cell phone progress picture as well.
So how crucial are the balance shaft bearings? I had some MINOR scuffing on the upper front balance shaft bearing. The surface feels smooth to the touch and does not hang a nail. I will try and get a pic up this weekend. Ordered front end seals, chain tensioner pads, valve cover gasket kit, and permatex 51813. I will post my opinions of the permatex. Going to get the top end sealed up, upper balance shaft, crank seal, pull the oil filter housing, rebuild PS pump, replace water pump, lower l balance shaft, and install timing/balance belt with idlers/tensioner. That will be phase one as I see it. Next pull the crossmember for phase two.
Got a little bit of work done this weekend. Prepared the valve cover for new gaskets and rubber washers. Also pulled the chain tensioner/pads and while not in bad shape I was surprised most by the pitting on the top pad. Cleaned the lower balance seal housing, PS pump, and TB tensioner not spotless but it will do. Dropped the swaybar (cleaned) and broke loose the tie rod nuts and pinch bolts in preparation for dropping the crossmember. I started to pull the oil filter housing and removed the allen bolt holding the hoses to the housing. I discovered o-rings sealing the hoses so I decided to go ahead and pull the other side going into the cooler in lieu of replacement. Picked up a 1 1/4" PVC coupling and cap to be used as a seal driver I will update on effectiveness.
10-08-2014, 08:57 PM
Lots of leaks. Any particular order?
but the water pump has never been replaced. The other odd thing was the different oils used through the years (20w50->15w40->5w40). Also have the original boutique and accessories catalog and man Porsche had some cool apparel back in the day. 
Pulling all of the PS lines and taking them to a hydraulic shop to replace the rubber hose sections. Out of town this weekend and will have company in next but I will keep plugging away and will try to post some pics.
