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Balance belt installed and tensioned as well as idler properly gaped. Tensioned the belt with the 180* twist method and it is pretty darn loose if I say so, but we will see. One thing to remember is the tensioner pulley being turned clockwise otherwise the belt will be pushed toward the water pump pulley. I used a credit card to set the lower gap and touch followed up by a flashlight to make sure the belt was not touching. When I went to install the crank pulley for the alternator (harmonic damper) is when I hit a slight snag. Below are a couple pictures of the pulley showing the three holes drilled in the back and the yellow dot on the front. The hole furthest left is about one quarter depth of the other two. My question is how is it supposed to be clocked? These must have been drilled for balancing but I have not seen them mentioned.
Considering the lack of response I am guessing the holes are negligible. Bought a NOS bosch "made in Germany" distributor cap and rotor off ebay. The pictures weren't great in the listing but they arrived perfect. Not often you see made in Germany on car parts other than the wahler thermostat. Rambling now, have to get up early for golf tournament. Out of town this weekend but will free up some wrench time this week.
Power steering pump and tensioner rod installed waiting for belt. Also installed the crank bolt and torqued to 155ft/lb as well as the a/c rod. I can't say enough about my hydraulic shop (cardinal rubber), picked up four o-rings for the oil cooler lines. I refused to pay $6 per o-ring for these four little jewels from porsche. For reference the 90* fittings go on the housing and route over the PS pulley in board of the lower rad hose. I know that is straight forward when looking at the two hoses installed but when you took them off seven months ago your mind may have trouble orienting them in three dimensions. What's left: PS reservoir, atf fill, suction hose, oil/filter, air filter, coolant, rebuild fuel lines, PS/alt belts. I am on the cusp but June is going to be very busy. Should be able to have her running and driving by july, then I will drain and fill the trans. Time to read about gear oil....yay
Did a little this weekend in mounting the power steering reservoir and bled the system by turning the wheel slowly from lock to lock with the lid off the system until I could hear no more bubbles working their way out. New distributor cap with plug wires mounted and properly routed. I would like to get another factory yellow sticker made up for the cap (ahem Van), I found one on ebay but it looks a little off. I also got the auxiliary belts on. The Gates AC/alternator belt (K060390) was suuuuper tight and required turning the engine to drag the belt into place. Ran into a problem when replacing the two lines running to the fuel damper off the rail. I bought some OEM cohline hose (3124.0800) from Roger@928Rus and could not keep it from kinking. No fault of Roger's or the hose but the bend is so extreme and the factory ones were molded. So looks like I will be ordering new factory ones. The bad part is 944.110.384.04 looks to be NLA, but I have sent a couple emails to vendors that have it listed. If you know of a new line available let me know. Heads up to Lart if I can't find one I might PM about your teflon lines. Trying to keep it as stocck looking as possible but it might not be in the cards. Fuel filter and the remaining lines will get maid up unless I splurge for Lart's full kit. Going to pick up some oil and coolant this week and keep chugging. Running out of options on the check off list.
Can't say enough about my hydraulic shop. They hooked me up with some teflon stainless covered crimped lines. Even installed red silicone over the long lines. I will not post the name (or price) but if any one is in Virginia and is interested shoot me a PM. I will update with fitment as the bends on the dapmener lines are pretty extreme.
These dampener lines have been in the back of my mind ever since the kinking debacle. However, these lines fit as close to perfect as I could have expected. I eased the 90* fitting coming off the fuel rail (maybe 5* and slightly toward the manifold) to give myself the best chance of not kinking the hose. Installed the fans and had to remove the lower hose to help clear the terminal on the driver's side fan. I don't remember having to do this when removing it but it was the simplest solution. As for installing the cover on the fuel rail the tabs on the driver's side are perpendicular and I inserted the clips into these first. Then carefully eased the tabs into the angled passenger tab. You should not have to hit or push them into place so don't get in a hurry and break the NLA cover. Tomorrow I a will swap the fuel filter and work on fluids. Forgot to order a broken spark plug boot so it won't be running this weekend. The pin hole at the end of the tunnel is starting to open up.
Outside of the spark plug boot and fuel filter the only thing left is fluids. I don't know something could come up. I'm just ready to drive it again. My wife has only rode in this car once so we will drop the kids off at the sitter and go for a drive when it's done. This is just the first round of revamp and I will start a new thread for all the other bits.
Finished up the fuel filter and judging from the amount of dirt (I've had cupcakes with less icing) I would be secure in saying it was the original. The other odd part was it was a Porsche purolator filter. It was replaced with a mahle. The best part of the day was when you are used to having the top of the fender at your belly button (6'2") and you stand next to it on the ground it now feels slammed. As if it is sitting on the frame. It is refreshing to see it supporting its own weight.
Well she runs. I've got an exhaust leak (that's what I get for not replacing the gaskets) at the number one cylinder it looks like. There is a slight werrring sound coming from the balance/timing area. I hope it is the balance belt and I noticed the smooth idler that is not supposed to touch the belt is. I will adjust it again and see if the sound goes away. The most interesting/concerning part is the oil pressure seems high. It was right at 5 after it built pressure so I switched the wires on the sending unit, but then it pegged. I put the wires back and it is now idling between 4 and 5. I put seven quarts in just as a starting point and it is reading in the middle of the dipstick. Any thoughts? OPRV? If so are there any fixes without pulling the housing and seating again? I'll tinker and see what I can find.
Well she runs. I've got an exhaust leak (that's what I get for not replacing the gaskets) at the number one cylinder it looks like. There is a slight werrring sound coming from the balance/timing area. I hope it is the balance belt and I noticed the smooth idler that is not supposed to touch the belt is. I will adjust it again and see if the sound goes away. The most interesting/concerning part is the oil pressure seems high. It was right at 5 after it built pressure so I switched the wires on the sending unit, but then it pegged. I put the wires back and it is now idling between 4 and 5. I put seven quarts in just as a starting point and it is reading in the middle of the dipstick. Any thoughts? OPRV? If so are there any fixes without pulling the housing and seating again? I'll tinker and see what I can find.
Idling at about 4 bar is normal for a cold engine, I think. Mine settles down to 2 bar at idle once it warms up, but it takes a few minutes of driving first.
^^^Thanks, I plan to go for a ride today for shake down. Then come back and dial in toe at the very least. After reading a bit it seems the OPRV doesn't "relieve" during idle and would only rear it's head with increased rpm. I believe the werrrring sound is either my compressor or the belt driving it. I can feel it trough the tensioner. When installing the suuuuuper tight gates belt I did put a small tear in one of the ribs. Exhaust leak is much better after the heat cycle. One last note for any one listening, if you crack the bleed bolt don't walk inside the house to talk to your wife. I came out to a steady stream of coolant rolling down the front timing cover. It didn't help that it seemed like it had been backed out eleventy five threads. You'd be surprised how slow you can tighten a bolt in a panic lol.
Took her out for a test drive tonight and man the engine is so much smoother than I ever remembered it. No more bucking or bogging in higher gears below 2k rpm. It just revs so freely and silky smooth through the entire rev range. This might sound strange but this makes shifting (matching revs) and pulling from a stop so much smoother and easier. I figured out the werrrring sound is coming from the PS pump. However, it got much better toward the end of the drive and the variable resistance in the steering force subsided so it could just be air in the system. Checked alignment and it is toed in .274" on the passenger and .156" toed in on the driver. Would 1/16" toe in across a 16" wheel be a good starting point?
04-29-2015, 10:19 PM
