trendy996

This is causing a no start issue.
I don't have an alarm, I replaced the dme relay with a new one, replaced the speed and reference sensors, replaced dme/klr and I'm getting fuel.
When I turn the key to acc the dme relay stays clicking.
Has anyone else ever experienced this before? I've searched and read but nothing on my issue. And yes I've read Clark's garage but there isn't a issue described for this.

specsalot

Trendy 996 - I know you're looking for a short answer here, but there really isn't one. If you can determine which set of contacts in your DME relay is clicking that would help to identify where this issue is. Here is a link to information which may be helpful

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/q0uojekhg9do2nh/bZOKBIIbol

If the first relay coil of the DME relay is pulsing you have a problem most likely with your alarm control unit, or part of the coil circuit. Since you say this happens with the key in the accessory position it suggests that you may have an issue with your alarm control unit. If your car doesn't have an alarm control unit the terminals for it will be bridged (per schematic). If the second really coil of the DME relay is pulsing, it means that your Motronic DME unit may be having an issue or more likely that it is not sensing that the car is cranking. Pages 6 and 8 of the wiring diagram (see link above) can point you to what you need to check to run down the circuits involved. Electrical gremlins can be difficult to find. Will making the 3 wire bridge (described in Clarks garage) in place of the DME relay allow the engine to start? (quote from Clarks below)

968turbos2

From what you describe sounds like an ignition switch short...if this helps....

Term 30 stays hot on DME with key off. When in acc position term 15 goes hot. If you get clicking at this point (constant) and you have replaced the DME relay with a new one, there is a short somewhere....just dumb luck, check the DME relay connectors to see if they have widened to the point where vibration makes the contact break on and off. If not I would check the ignition switch.

If term 87 is not energized then the FP wont run. That clicking is the lower bridge on the above diagram...86 is from ignition switch...a short on term 86 will cause symptoms like you describe.

Hopefully you'll get lucky and it is just the connectors for one or more DME relay pin connectors.

specsalot

Sorry - I significantly edited my original post to simplify after re-reading all the threads. Here's the diagram back up:

trendy996

Thank you guys. This sounds promising. Now I just need some time off work to evaluate the situation.

specsalot

This is an interesting problem. No starts come down mostly to no fuel or no spark. If you have a really bad vacuum leak, you could wind up so lean that you could also get a no start. A clicking DME relay means either your DME/KLR supply power is cycling or your fuel pump is not running steady. So much for my PhD in the obvesious, the real question is what's going on with inputs to the DME relay.

fejjj

Or you can just buy one of Rogue tuning's new computers and be done with that issue and every other one down the road.

trendy996

Care to explain? I'm intrigued

Voith

Search, there is a thread about it

http://www.roguetuning.com/rogue_tuning_ecu

http://www.augmentautomotive.co.uk/augtronic

trendy996

Thanks and sorry. From reading through it I noticed the stock dme doesn't work or work well with the msd blaster coil. Which I have installed. Could this be my issue?

konakat

That is almost certainly an ignition switch issue. Only the first stage of the relay should be getting activated when you are in the acc position, and I can't think of anything besides the ignition switch that could cause acc power to be intermittent. You can try shorting acc power to main 12V in the fuse box or at the ignition switch to see if there is still clicking.

trendy996

Ok I'll try that. Even know it's a bad ignition switch it will still allow you to send power to the starter to crank it?

Thanks for the input!

968turbos2

Yes

trendy996

Ok thanks. I just went ahead and ordered a new ignition switch. I figure these parts that cause no starts will eventually go out so to me it's not a waste of money but a piece of mind to know they're new.

specsalot

I picked up a Blaster during my diagnostic. I concluded that the coil tower was not compatible with the stock BERU wire set I have. What wire set do you use with your BLASTER. Per RogueTunings page a Blaster coil pushed the DME transistor networks and can lead to premature DME spark circuit failures.

Any progress on solving your issue?