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Do LEDs require more power, whether higher voltage or current (or both), to start up or turn on than they do once they're on?
Is there any valid reason for someone with an older 944 to be concerned about using these LED bulbs in his car?
I've tried to find the answer to the first question online, and in a quick search I was unable to find any evidence that LEDs need more power to turn on than to run. I don't think they do, but I don't know for sure.
Assuming they do not, I cannot think of any reason for someone with an older 944 to be concerned about using these bulbs in their car. The only potential concern I can imagine is that the wiring isn't up to the task, but since these use less power than standard H6024 bulbs, that concern is unfounded.
Do LEDs require more power, whether higher voltage or current (or both), to start up or turn on than they do once they're on?
Is there any valid reason for someone with an older 944 to be concerned about using these LED bulbs in his car?
I've tried to find the answer to the first question online, and in a quick search I was unable to find any evidence that LEDs need more power to turn on than to run. I don't think they do, but I don't know for sure.
Assuming they do not, I cannot think of any reason for someone with an older 944 to be concerned about using these bulbs in their car. The only potential concern I can imagine is that the wiring isn't up to the task, but since these use less power than standard H6024 bulbs, that concern is unfounded.
Or correct me if I'm wrong...
LEDs do not require a surge current or voltage during startup. LEDs are more efficient than halogen, so for the same light output LEDs will require less power. LED is one of those rare best-of-all-worlds solutions.
Has anyone ever tired the Bi-Xenon HID projector lights in a 944?
Ditto that question. For very little money you can get these in 2.5" diameter, one lens does both high and low beam, and appears to put out WAY more light for way less juice.
I'm considering using such for fixed, covered headlights on my Turbo, which would save a fair amount of weight and not be aerodynamic speed brakes like the stock popups.
I also wonder if HID lights could be adapted for use in the otherwise blank lenses next to 951/S2 fog lights.
The problem with the bi-xenon projectors is that it's not a true sealed enclosure. You'll need to either seal it up with silicone so water doesn't go in during washing or a downpour (and even that is not a guarantee), or you'll have to cut up the light housing and sealed them into it (back end will still be sticking out). I've seen the projectors fitted and sealed into the housings so it can be done but does take some work.
Ditto that question. For very little money you can get these in 2.5" diameter, one lens does both high and low beam, and appears to put out WAY more light for way less juice.
I'm considering using such for fixed, covered headlights on my Turbo, which would save a fair amount of weight and not be aerodynamic speed brakes like the stock popups.
I also wonder if HID lights could be adapted for use in the otherwise blank lenses next to 951/S2 fog lights.
I've been kicking around the same idea.(see pick below. Thanks to Broadfoot Racing. I took the original image off their website and modified it greatly to try out different ideas for placement. I'm trying to decide if the light openings should be round, square, or rectangular and where exactly they should be placed. I want the opening to be as small as possible and blend in as much as possible and look "factory" as much as possible. Everyone feel free to give me suggestions or even photoshopped renderings(I hope Albert will forgive me for unauthorized use of his picture)) The burgandy 944 is the look I am thinking of. Solid header panel with just small cut outs which are filled with a plexiglass cover.
Originally Posted by veleno
The problem with the bi-xenon projectors is that it's not a true sealed enclosure. You'll need to either seal it up with silicone so water doesn't go in during washing or a downpour (and even that is not a guarantee), or you'll have to cut up the light housing and sealed them into it (back end will still be sticking out). I've seen the projectors fitted and sealed into the housings so it can be done but does take some work.
This is one issue I am trying to figure out a solution to.
A couple of pictures showing the difference in light output between a set of H4's (admittedly with old/pitted lenses...) and a set of KC Hilites 7" round LED headlights. Ignore the mess in the garage...
I do yes. The shrouds fit fine, in fact at first glance it looked like a simple plug-n-play exercise and I had one light in place in a few minutes. Only when I tried to lower the headlights to check for clearance (using the manual **** on the motor of course) did I really see the interference with the panel below the headlight housing.
After I saw the light output, I was determined to come-up with a solution to clearance the space, even it was not an elegant one...
I do yes. The shrouds fit fine, in fact at first glance it looked like a simple plug-n-play exercise and I had one light in place in a few minutes. Only when I tried to lower the headlights to check for clearance (using the manual **** on the motor of course) did I really see the interference with the panel below the headlight housing.
After I saw the light output, I was determined to come-up with a solution to clearance the space, even it was not an elegant one...
What was the solution exactly? I did notice in some of the original pics the new bulbs jut out more in some pics than in others. Interested to know how you solved this issue.
08-19-2014, 09:09 PM
