Mueller944s2

They just seem locked

Mueller944s2

They don't compress anymore. The faces of the CV are flush with the ends of the axle bar. I mean it's almost as if the bar itself is too long. Like the tranny shifted to the left.

turbodave

The shaft that is missing the backing plates is the one you are holding in your hand in the first picture. Judging by the rolled threads on the three remaining retaining bolts I'd say that you got lucky if only one of the threads on the flange were damaged. As for the failure, it started back down the road somewhere, most likely not long after the installation. The failure concluded when you pulled away from the gate. It is however, unusual in a low RPM(at the rear wheels) situation to see 3 of the 6 bolts distorted to the degree in the picture. Normally it's only the last one to fail as the others loosened and departed before the event. With the rear of the car on jackstands and the suspension unloaded they should fit easily. The CV joints themselves should move freely in and out on the splines and give ample clearance for installation. So if you have to move the transmission over to force it into position something is not right. Ether incorrect part or suspension problems. Did you have to do this when you installed it before? Using 944 parts on a 944 goes a long way to insuring success in most instances. I can't say the same for aftermarket or "universal" or "unknown source" parts. Are you sure that this axel is for a 944 and not a 968? Hope this helps.

Mueller944s2

They don't move freely so looks like I'll be rebuilding it tonight. The axle that just broke was aftermarket from 944online. The one I'm putting on now is Porsche, it's the one I took off over the summer because it was damaged. I'm not sure how I rebuilt it wrong though.

87 944 C

well let us know how it goes

951and944S

Dude, take the other bolts off and just ditch that axle.

Turn it in as a core at O Reilly Auto Parts.

They sell them for like $60 rebuilt with a warranty.

We race these in SP2 944s, no problems.

If you need a transmission output flange (the round part the threads are in on the transmission), PM me and I'll get you one to N.O.

BTW - those plates are intended to spread the load of the bolts clamping force around more of the joint than just the 6 bolt compression spots, they don't "lock" anything.
Just make sure you have the right bolts (or allen head equivalents as mentioned by Lemming above) with about 20mm of unthreaded shank near the head. The fully threaded ones will become too small an o.d. as the threads wear and allow the joint to rotate back and forth in relation to the transmission flange after time.

T

william_b_noble

rebuilt axles are about $130 each, just get rebuilds, I think the others are correct that the joint was assembled incorrectly causing enormous stress. I would anticipate changing the flange on the transmission, even if not stripped it may well be bent. the bolts will not loosen up if properly installed so what you have is some other problem. Look at the threads, if they are stripped then you know for sure it was not "loosening" but rather enormous force -

Mueller944s2

Found that problem. I had the CV's put together wrong. But if the car is in gear I should NOT be able to rotate the wheels correct? Because I can. Also, when this whole thing happened I could move in and out of gears without the clutch. Any idea what this is?

william_b_noble

1. of course you can rotate the wheels, even if you weld the CV joint - do the force calculations, the axle will bend - of course it won't last long but....

2. you can always shift without the clutch - that is a good thing to practice so you can do it smoothly - it will come in handy if the clutch linkage breaks (I drove my 356 home about 40 miles in rush hour traffic with no clutch, so it was quite helpful). Learning to shift without the clutch will help you shift much smoother.

Mueller944s2

It was more like I was idling and just moving the shifter in and out of gears freely without the clutch. I have the car fixed now and running great, but I'd like to know the mechanics behind why that was happening

rlets

I was having this problem earlier this year. Here's the best post on the subject I found.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...ml#post1922501

Following this procedure seems to have cured it. Cleaning with q-tips was key. I pulled grease out of each hole after the thing was installed. It seems impossible for me to get the axle situated without getting the bolts into the grease.



And my car didn't come with those #21 Schnorr washers from the factory. I've now added them and things are staying tight. I got them and 6mm allen head bolts from McMaster Car as Lemming suggests above.

Good luck,
Rich

Mueller944s2

I don't have #21. I've never seen washers on the axles. And what is #19?! I've never even seen that.

mel_t_vin

Tim, when you have a minute, would you please post the McMaster Carr part number for the correct length/width/pitch allen head axle bolt?

Thanks.

austin944

I bought 2 of these rebuilt axles from O Reilly Auto Parts and outside of the box is marked with "Made in China". Are people OK with using these Chinese-made auto parts on their cars?

I tend to have bad luck with consumer products made there -- the stuff breaks readily and I have to replace it.

Mueller944s2

Well I cleaned the grease out of the threads, put on those half moon things, and even used locktite this time. Drove it for a few weeks then check it a couple days ago. All the bolts were loose. No matter what I do they fall out