elgy

Putting in a new clutch just moved to the top of the To Do list for my 1987 924S.
Since it has never had the clutch changed that was going to be my project for next winter, but a week or 2 ago it developed an annoying rattle somewhere underneath, most noticeable during clutch engagement so I did a search here on RL for clutch rattles. There I came upon a thread on the symptoms of rubber centered clutch failure. Hmm, that would explain the slack in the drive train.

This morning I crawled underneath, pulled the transaxle inspection window and checked the driveshaft; there was at least 20 or 30 degrees of slack. Also found the rattle, which is the cat’s heat shield that had broken loose from all its attachment points.

I have started checking out clutch kits… what is the story with the “Aftermarket Italian made spring type disc” that costs $160 less than the Sachs disk in the kits offered by 944online? Anyone have experience with this?

While I’m in there, I will get to fix my gas tank which leaks when it is full and I suppose I’ll change the torque tube bearings.

I am going to need some muscle to help removing the transaxle. Is there anyone in the Montreal, Quebec area who is willing to give me a hand for a couple of hours in a week or two? Also if someone not too far away has a transmission jack that I can borrow I would appreciate it.

I have already read three "How tos"; Clarks Garage, 944online and 924 org, so I know what I am getting into. Not looking forward to this… but on the other hand it will be a lot nicer to drive when all this is done.

mytrplseven

Hey, Elgy. Here's my list of items on my clutch replacement project last year. First, off, I bought a small, low transmission jack from Harbor Freight (sold it after the project for what I paid for it). Secondly, I did the whole thing by myself. A helper wasn't needed because of the tranny jack. I got real lucky and found a Sachs package with about 100 miles on it on ebay for $100 (can you believe it??). Guy's car got T-boned soon after he installed it and parted out the car. Third, plan on jacking up the car at least 18". Plan on removing the exhaust system and when you're removing the tranny out the back, the notch in the bottom pan below the bumper provides that extra little bit of room for it to clear the car.

I also suggest replacing the clutch fork pivot shaft bearings and the pilot bearing while you're at it. This is an involved process and I suggest reading everything on the process you can, if you haven't already.

Let me know if you have any questions with this. A lot of us out here have done this so there's a lot of help online.

Chunkerz

If you look at the Sachs disk you will see that the center of the clutch is attached to the friction surface by a bunch of little tabs (see below. They're circled in red), unlike the aftermarket disk which appears to be one solid piece (see below). I've seen a few posts about those tabs breaking, so I'd go with the Italian disk.




I hope Ian doesn't mind me borrowing his pictures...

thirdgenbird

Have fun!


Let us know if you have questions.

John_AZ

elgy,

I put the "Italian" clutch disc in my '87 924S in April of '09.
I have 10,000 miles on the new clutch & I am very pleased with the disc.

BTW, the gas tank will have 2 stress cracks in the center top. Many posts on the tank in the 924S. The repair is a weld on each side. Usually a radiator shop will "boil" out the tank overnight and weld.
In PHX the cost is about $125 to $150.

The Elring RMS is the best to use if you worry about future leaks.

Easy.

GL
J_AZ

Travis - sflraver

$125

John_AZ

Travis,

I did not know you had a disc for sale. Great price!!

Also,

Very happy with the '87 & '88 924S fuel lines purchased from Rennbay.

elgy, get a set of 924S fuel lines from Rennbay as well.

MY DIY info:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...arly-944s.html

J_AZ

Mueller944s2

I just did this. Believe it or not you can actually handle the transmission by yourself. The first time my dad had to help me lower it an put it back in, but then I found the clutch alignment was messed up so I pulled it out and put it back in no problem. The issue is with the shift linkage guide tube. It's not too much fun maneuvering the transmission around it because you have the spare tire well blocking things. While you're in there, and this might've been said earlier and I missed it, I'd take a look at the fork. The inside edges wear down significantly over time so you might as well. A refurbished one is $150 after the core charge. It should come with new needle bearings as well. I'd resurface the flywheel too. I wasn't gonna do it on mine but after I did I was amazed at the difference, didn't realize how bad mine was. Definitely do the pilot bearing. I used a slide hammer and it popped out immediately. I'd recommend the RMS, but it's such a pain...mine got mangled trying to get it out and then I realized I was stuck. Check the transmission mount too.

I just put in the Sachs kit. I had a 3 year old Kevlar disk that self destructed out of no where and literally turned the thing to dust. I had metal pieces all over the place. The OEM is much smoother.

elgy

Firstly, thanks for all the suggestions and encouragement. I have to clearup a few things to have room in the garage before getting started, so I am still in the planning stages, hopefully I'll be started before the end of the week.

1) Where do you measure the 18"? Under the rear bumper, the rocker panels, the floor near the clutch? I plan to put the rear up on my ramps(which are one foot high) than jack it up to get the wheels free and put jack stands and wooden blocks under it (its gotta look and be solid before I slide under it!). The front won't be as high, but on jack stands also.

2) While doing my pricing I am looking at options, since my budget is tight and my time is free and plentiful. I got an offer by PM of a new clutch disk for $100, so will price out replacing everything except the pressure plate, including all the bearings and the RMS. I'm sure others have reused the pressure plate - how reliable are they after about 180, 000 KM (120,000 miles)? I won't make my final decision till it is all apart just in case there is a problem with the pressure plate, but I will take the time to look at all the options now.

Thanks again.

John_AZ

You might be able to reuse a PP pressure plate IF--

The TO throw out bearing has not worn deep grooves in the PP spring diaphram. Also the PP flat surface cannot have serious burn marks from the disc, but..
180,000KM is near the max life of the PP.
You could try to locate a good used PP.

The FW fly wheel has to be machined and best if the PP & FW are balanced as one unit to avoid future vibrations in drive train.

Every small clutch part --bearings, guide tube, new FW bolts, seals have to be replaced and if the fork rod has deep needle bearing grooves it should be replaced as well as the clutch fork if serious deep grooves in the contact area with the TO throw out bearing.

J_AZ

elgy

Finally got into it this last week. Here are some observations.

Instead of using jack stands I put the rear on my ramps (with an extra inch and a half of wood planks under the ramps) which gives me 20" under the spare tire well. In front I have blocks of wood under the cross member - call me paranoid but I feel much safer than with jack stands. Once the half shafts are unbolted the drive shaft can be turned for undoing the clamp in the front of the transaxle. I realise that if I have to pull the torque tube I'll have to change the way it is supported.

The exhaust manifold bolts were the biggest PITA so far (surprise, surprise) I broke 3, unscrewed 2 and had one that turned with the ratchet on the bottom but it was impossible to get a wrench or anything on the top to hold it. After spending an afternoon trying I finally figured I could remove the right front wheel and get my reciprocating saw in between the frame and the suspension and saw it off. That was tight but worked.

Sliding the shift rod forward was a bit more complicated than just "turn the shift rod down and push toward the front of the vehicle" as it says in Clark's garage. I had to remove the shift lever also and than fight with the foam that is around the torque tube to force the rod forward... was able to do it using vice grips.

It is now ready to for the tranny to be lowered (using my new transmission jack).

The other major challenge at this point is removing the the speed and reference sensors, I got the bolts out, but I can't get a hand in there to grab them, and my hands aren't huge. Also there is a fitting that looks like a diaphragm that partially blocks the forward most sensor. I have searched the form for suggestions on the details of removal of the sensors but haven't seen anything that would help. I am thinking of making up a long scissor like tool that would allow me to grab and turn the sensor bodies and then my girlfriend might be able to get her little hand in there to pull them out.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

John_AZ

The sound deadening foam should be replaced if you tore it in chunks. Buy good used for about $25 or so.

SENSORS!!

The sensors have an "O" ring in the middle of the sensor bracket. The "O" ring hardens and makes it hard to remove.

IF you force the sensors out you will probably ruin the sensors or break in half. Try to grab the top by hand or grip and gently twist and lift at the same time. Use a little penetrating oil-may help.
If the sensors break you will have to remove the sensor bracket with the 2 bolts holding the bracket to the engine. Very difficult to get to the drivers side!

Some have had to break the bracket in pieces and buy a new sensor bracket and sensors. $$$

GL
J_AZ

Gator944

This is probably irrelevant to your situtation but mine had a bad rattle that i thought for sure was the clutch. Another member told me its probably my cat.so i took it off and put a resonator there and the rattle was gone!

mytrplseven

When I tried to remove the exhaust from the exhaust manifold, I had to use a small pneumatic die grinder with a cutting disc to cut the bolts off. It took all day.

william_b_noble

1. a nut splitter can be helpful
2. when you are doing a clutch job it is very helpful to have the Porsche manual as well as the Clark's garage pages - there are some things that are a bit non-obvious
3. while you have the thing apart, it's a convenient time to fix the shift pin - you can use my article, here http://www.wbnoble.com/cars/924-944_...ver_repair.htm as a guide
4. be sure to completely remove the two allen cap screws that hold the coupling to the shafts in the transmission bellhousing to driveshaft area.