mel_t_vin

There are 24, 12 on each axle, 6 inner [gearbox side] and 6 outer [control arm side], securing each CVJ between its respective flanges.

The rear end of the car does not need to be raised, but, it sure helps.

TheAllusionist

I have to change an axle/CV joints and was wondering if anyone could tell me off the top of their head what the torque setting was for tightening them?

Dino V

Check these bolts. I had similar issue and it ended up being loose/missing bolts on axle to diff. Glad I caught it before it completely disconnected. I have a pic of culprit in my recent thread.

mel_t_vin

Factory spec is 30 ft-lb or 41 Nm.

carlosvmata

Changed my CV axel a few weeks ago and got myself a good set of triple squares. Be careful to clean the bolts as advised on this forum. I broke three and had to get a shop to finish my mess. Lesson learned.

TheAllusionist

mel_t_vin Thank you for the information!

mel_t_vin

No worries, Russell.

But listen to Carlos, and others, and make sure you've got a solid, high quality, triple-square socket before you undertake this endeavor. Many an axle bolt have been rounded/destroyed due to lesser-quality tools.

Happy motoring...

TheAllusionist

Not certain what a tripple square socket is, I did go get from automotive store a 8mm 12 point head drive and a 6mm allen head drive (Lart's two GKN axel's I bought had one of each set for the bolts), I got underneath and sprayed the heads, etc. with WD-40 and will make sure I clean out the recesses as best as I can before loosening.

I appreciate the heads up and sorry if I don't know all the nomenclature used, most my tools are SAE and most cars I have worked on are American hot rods and classics, so all of this including the tight quarters is going to take some getting use to.

Have a great 3 day weekend!

mel_t_vin

Sounds like you're well on your way.

BTW, a triple square = 12-point cheesehead, so, you've got the right tools for the job.

TheAllusionist

Thank for clarifying for me, put in the broken one (Bearing cage shattered it turns out) and I am back on the road, still sounds like I have a rear wheel bearing going out, so I have to investigate what is needed for changing that, probably have to take out a race or something that makes it not an easy job.

Thanks again everyone!

mel_t_vin

Before you decide to press out the bearings in your rear trailing arms [not the easiest of jobs], verify that your front wheel bearings are properly adjusted.

Sometimes, noises that sound like they're coming from the rear are really coming from the front. Wouldn't that be nice...

TheAllusionist

Thanks for the heads up, I was also going to have a mechanic listen to it when I get around to installing a new AC condenser and Dryer and need it recharged. I will end my comments here as I have kind of hijacked this thread, but I appreciate all the help and advice.