Yummybud924

the threads aren't stripped (well I hope not), the head where the allen head tool fits is stripped.


I will try the 16mm socket idea when I get it home (if it makes it home haha), sounds like it'd work.

Yummybud924

i've been using cheap chinese made sockets on my 944 for years and i'm lucky they haven't broken, but if I try bashing it in with a hammer they'll probably crack. I might go get a good quality 16mm air tool socket.

FRporscheman

Dude, when I saw this thread, started by you, I thought "this has to be the old thread"... It sucks that this is happening to you again, sorry man. You should be more careful with transmission couplers!

Were you using a u-joint, or were you trying to get at the bolt with a straight extension? The tranny-side bolt requires a u-joint if you want to get it properly.

The most important thing with tightening and loosening bolts is to keep the socket seated flat 100%. Always counter-hold the head of the socket wrench with one hand while you apply torque at the end of the wrench with your other hand.

If there are any Porsche dismantlers or junkyards located near you, just go get a couple of bolts from them, it will be cheaper and faster than ordering new ones.

Yummybud924

haha yeah. this exact thing didn't happen to me before, my torque tube got stripped while driving couple years back and the coupler wouldn't budge after taking the bolts out so I had to cut through it with a saw and it was a nightmare to cut it, and I replaced the torque tube.

hopefully chrenan's method will work and shoving a socket on the outside will get it out.

I was not using a u-joint, just a long straight extension, I thought it was pretty straight in there. if I use a u-joint how would I torque it with a torque wrench? you can't use u-joints on torque wrenches i'm pretty sure.

anyways if it comes out i'll be happy, a new bolt is 14 bucks from dealer here. I'd rather use a new bolt than a used one that might be worn from being removed and more likely to strip again.

Yummybud924

if I can get it out with chrenan's method I'll just put a new one in and tighten it without a torque wrench and take it to a shop to have it properly torqued.

it's hard to use a torque wrench under there on that bolt and i don't want to risk stripping it again if I can get it out.

Oddjob

Use a u-joint for the trans side bolt, it is not a straight line to the bolt. Yes, you can use a torque wrench, especially when its just a very slight mis-alignment.

$14, VW/Porsche Canada is gouging you. $8.71 is the current US dealer list price.

FRporscheman

Yeah, you can use a torque wrench with a u-joint as long as the joint doesn't bind - i.e., a small angle.

I hope the 16mm socket trick works!

culture

could anyone further elaborate here. the head on my bolt so mangled from hitting it with a chisel there is much left to turn. i think i may try this dremel method. would cutting in the split of the coupler thru the bolt work?

944hal

I believe you can use the hardware store version bolt, with the bigger head, on the tranny side but not on the toward the front of the car.

jhammond

I know this is an old thread but I just happened on it as I had a badly stripped clamping sleeve bolt. I used a 5/8"/16mm Irwin Bolt Grip extractor and it worked perfectly. (In fact it worked so well that I'm now wondering it I should just use the extractor rather than a hex bit the next time I remove the transmission side bolt.) When I install the replacement bolt which is a better? U-joint and straight hex bit? Or ball end long hex bit?

tempest411

If it's just a small misalignment I'd use a wobble extension on a standard socket. Don't ever use ball-end hex bits for anything but running bolts in or out. They have very little torque capacity.

odonnell

Get a short hex bit and use a U-joint to another extension. There is a slight clash with the side of the inspection window if you use a long bit, it will cause your bit to sit a few degrees off of straight within the fastener. Mine stripped a few years ago because of this.