thirdgenbird

You are right. I was picturing drilling a pilot hole, but I forgot that you can't get a straight shot at that bolt. The right angle drill and a skilled operator could probably do it, but it wouldn't be fun nor easy.

Oddjob

Yeah, stripping one of those coupler bolts is on my short list of things I never want to have happen...

I use a universal to get a straight bite on the trans side bolt. Might be part of the problem w/ stripping that head, if you dont use a flex joint in there, the bit is inserted at an angle and more likely to strip.

Overkill, but the more I think about it, probably worth spending the $18 for a pair of new bolts everytime you go in there, just to have fresh contact surfaces for the allen socket with the hope of reducing the risk of stripping.

BlueDragonX

We stripped one pulling the transaxle out of one of our 85.5's. Remember there's a notch in the driveshaft that the bolt sits in to prevent the sleeve from moving so just cutting off the head won't work.

I used a Dremel with a cut-off wheel to cut through the coupler and bolt just above where the threads start. We of course had to replace both items but we had a spare from our parts car.

I believe the fact that you can't get a straight line on the bolt is what caused us to strip it out in the first place.

Yummybud924

thanks for the replies.

I didn't know that the only purpose of the bolts was to stop the coupler from sliding and that even one bolt would hold it.... I thought the bolts were suppose to clamp down on the coupler also.

I did not torque the one that stripped to the 58 ft-lbs I have no idea how tight i got it before it stripped. I think my torque wrench is out of spec anyways.

i do not want to cut through the coupler I had to do it once and it's a nightmare to cut through it took forever. also I just finished installing my new tranny an i'd had to have to take it out again.

i'll take it to a shop when I get home and have them try and take it out.


anyone think a shop can just weld a allen head socket to it and back it out? i'm too scared to try and hammer in a torx bit or whatever and mess it up further. i'm hoping a good shop can get it out someone either welding something to it or a using a bolt removal tool.

Mark924S

I cant remember precisley how much room is in around the top of the head on the coupler bolts, but Irwin make serrated bolt extractors, I have use them on stripped allens and triple square before, the extractor you pound on over the head, if it bites well enough it should back out, Other compaies make them but Irwins are the only ones ive had any luck with. If you cant get one of those to bite you'll be back in buisness.

On a sperate note if you do drive home with it dont get over zealous with the throttle obviously. Good luck hope you can solve this issue. I remember these bolts being a pain when i did my clutch in the 83

KevinGross

Bear in mind that the coupler is a weight balanced part -- notice the drillings to balance it. If you run without a bolt, it won't be balanced. I might guess it's not a huge issue, but assume Porsche balanced the part for a reason.

It's a pretty hefty part, but I would be concerned that running without one of the bolts might eventually allow the coupler to spread enough that the splines would disengage or strip. YMMV!

I would do anything to avoid drilling the bolt out, foresee nothing but pain and grief. Good luck!

Kevin
Catellus Engineering

JustinL

Try pounding a 16mm (12 point) socket onto the outside of the head before giving up. Chrenan and his gorilla strength pounded the bolt so it now accepts a 12 point like it was designed for it. Get a breaker bar and apply smooth torque and I'll bet it comes right out.

JimV8

Thats really gotta suck canal water.

chrenan

Craftsman actually!

Justin's big brain came up with the idea. I actually asked him before I started how attached he was to the socket, if it had any sentimental value, as I was sure it was going to shatter when I tried to bash it on there. I was really surprised it worked, saved us a ton of hassle. Give it a try Tim, the worst thing that could happen is you have to replace a 16mm 12-point socket.

Gawernator

"Old" Craftsman or "new" Craftsman

chrenan

Older Crasftsman Canada, very likely predates the Chinese crap Sears has been selling here for a decade at least and the Chinese crap Sears USA has starting selling there. I'd guess it was forged in the USA by how well it held up.

f1rocks

Did it on the lift you know own

I think for the longest time I kept my half of the coupling just as a reminder. Gave the other half to Repka since the tranny was for him. Probably threw it away when I moved down here.

Yummybud924

okay thanks. I will try that when I drive it back home. I will risk and drive it the 500 kms home. i think it is in there fairly tight but there is a risk it could back out on the drive.

i can't even get a bolt where I am right now and I have to drive back to vancouver in a day or two,

bordin34

About 6 months ago I messed up the head of one of my bolts while putting it in and never go to any torque. I think I cross-threaded it or something similar.
Luckily mine wasnt 100% stripped it was about 80% stripped and my cheap harbor freight socket wouldnt work anymore. It wasnt putting any force to close the clamp at all. I drove about 25 miles on it.

What I did was take a good craftman allen key and cut it with a cut-off wheel so that I could put it in an 8mm? socket. Then when removing the bolt I pushed up as hard as I could while slowly loosening the bolt. Anytime the bit hopped out of the bolt I put a new piece of allen key int he socket to ensure it was still sharp. Luckily I got it out with only about 3 hops.
My new bolt was from fastenal and worked fine because it was the bolt on the trans side. I believe you need the short head bolt for the torque tube side.

joes

This may sound crazy but wht dont you turn the coupler to the other side take a punch and drive it out? If it it truly striped out it should drive out.