How to Install the Rogue Tuning NA-Tune
03-16-2013, 04:21 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
How to Install the Rogue Tuning NA-Tune
Someone over on Pelican Parts requested a how to for installing the NA-Tune from Rogue Tuning. I have no life, so I made one. If I forgot any steps or you'd like better pictures let me know and I'll take care of it.
Alright, fist things first. Take a few shots of tequila or your alcohol of choice.
Once you're done with that, disconnect the battery. I have a **** to disconnect mine. If you don't have one of those, then you'll have to loosen the nut and pull the lead off.
Next we're going to remove the DME. Pull back the passenger side carpet (it's velcroed on there) and you should see something like this
Unbolt the kick panel, disconnect the DME, and you should see something like this.
Unbolt the DME and flip it over. Pry up on these tabs with a flat blade screw driver.
Remove the metal cover and GENTLY push up on the top board at these two posts. Do not push up at the very edges of the board.
Once you have the DME apart, carefully stick a flat blade screwdriver it under the chip. Wiggle it around a little, then switch to the other side of the chip. Do not just pry up on one side of the chip. You will bend the pins. Once it's loose, gently lift it out and set it aside. I'd recommend putting it in the static free box your new chip comes in.
After your chip is out, insert the new one as shown:
After you're done that, reconnect the DME and reinstall the kick panel (sorry, no pics)
The next step is to remove the top of the airbox. Remove the screws holding the lid on and the clamp that holds the belt vent tube to the airbox
Once you've removed the top cover, loosen this screw and remove the clamp attaching the J-boot to the AFM. There is no J-boot in this picture because mine seems to have gone on vacation
Disconnect the connector for the AFM and remove the four screws holding in the AFM. The one on the bottom left is a real pain in the *** to remove/install. Just swear and shout a lot and it'll eventually come out.
Look at that difference in air restriction!
Throw your AFM in the garbage.
Just kidding
Next, hold the MAF housing in place and start all four bolts. I'd recommend screwing them in about half way by hand then tightening them down. Don't torque them like crazy. Just snug them up and it should be good.
The one on the bottom left takes some ingenuity to get tightened down
Now it's time to go inside and do some soldering! Get out your soldering iron, some solder, a ring connector thing, some heat shrink, and a heat gun
Slide on your heat shrink, stick the the wire in the end of the connector, and squeeze the end of the connector together with some pliers.
Make sure your soldering iron is 100% heated up and place it on the wire. Touch the piece of solder on there until it covers the entire end of the wire and flows down inside the part of the connector you squished. Watch out, the connector gets very hot and can burn you! I needed something to hold the connector down while I soldered it, so I used a can of brake fluid from my VW.
Slide the heat shrink over the connector and use your heat gun to shrink it. Make sure it is 100% shrunk so no dirt, water, etc can get in there.
Go back to your car and pry apart the cover for the coil with a flat blade screw driver. This thing is a bitch to remove with the headlight motor in place, so I usually unbolt it and rotate the motor forward.
Once the cover is off, you should see this. DO NOT USE THE GREEN WIRE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It sees huge voltage spikes that will fry your MAF sensor. Ask me how I know...
Loosen this nut on the coil. It is 10mm
Slide the ring connector over the post and tighten the nut down.
Go to the MAF housing and connect the harness to the MAF sensor and the AFM connector.
Reconnect the J-boot (make sure none of the vacuum lines attached to the bottom came loose), put the airbox together (make sure you have everything out of there first!), put the cover on the coil, reconnect the battery and start 'er up!
Alright, fist things first. Take a few shots of tequila or your alcohol of choice.
Once you're done with that, disconnect the battery. I have a **** to disconnect mine. If you don't have one of those, then you'll have to loosen the nut and pull the lead off.
Next we're going to remove the DME. Pull back the passenger side carpet (it's velcroed on there) and you should see something like this
Unbolt the kick panel, disconnect the DME, and you should see something like this.
Unbolt the DME and flip it over. Pry up on these tabs with a flat blade screw driver.
Remove the metal cover and GENTLY push up on the top board at these two posts. Do not push up at the very edges of the board.
Once you have the DME apart, carefully stick a flat blade screwdriver it under the chip. Wiggle it around a little, then switch to the other side of the chip. Do not just pry up on one side of the chip. You will bend the pins. Once it's loose, gently lift it out and set it aside. I'd recommend putting it in the static free box your new chip comes in.
After your chip is out, insert the new one as shown:
After you're done that, reconnect the DME and reinstall the kick panel (sorry, no pics)
The next step is to remove the top of the airbox. Remove the screws holding the lid on and the clamp that holds the belt vent tube to the airbox
Once you've removed the top cover, loosen this screw and remove the clamp attaching the J-boot to the AFM. There is no J-boot in this picture because mine seems to have gone on vacation
Disconnect the connector for the AFM and remove the four screws holding in the AFM. The one on the bottom left is a real pain in the *** to remove/install. Just swear and shout a lot and it'll eventually come out.
Look at that difference in air restriction!
Throw your AFM in the garbage.
Just kidding
Next, hold the MAF housing in place and start all four bolts. I'd recommend screwing them in about half way by hand then tightening them down. Don't torque them like crazy. Just snug them up and it should be good.
The one on the bottom left takes some ingenuity to get tightened down
Now it's time to go inside and do some soldering! Get out your soldering iron, some solder, a ring connector thing, some heat shrink, and a heat gun
Slide on your heat shrink, stick the the wire in the end of the connector, and squeeze the end of the connector together with some pliers.
Make sure your soldering iron is 100% heated up and place it on the wire. Touch the piece of solder on there until it covers the entire end of the wire and flows down inside the part of the connector you squished. Watch out, the connector gets very hot and can burn you! I needed something to hold the connector down while I soldered it, so I used a can of brake fluid from my VW.
Slide the heat shrink over the connector and use your heat gun to shrink it. Make sure it is 100% shrunk so no dirt, water, etc can get in there.
Go back to your car and pry apart the cover for the coil with a flat blade screw driver. This thing is a bitch to remove with the headlight motor in place, so I usually unbolt it and rotate the motor forward.
Once the cover is off, you should see this. DO NOT USE THE GREEN WIRE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It sees huge voltage spikes that will fry your MAF sensor. Ask me how I know...
Loosen this nut on the coil. It is 10mm
Slide the ring connector over the post and tighten the nut down.
Go to the MAF housing and connect the harness to the MAF sensor and the AFM connector.
Reconnect the J-boot (make sure none of the vacuum lines attached to the bottom came loose), put the airbox together (make sure you have everything out of there first!), put the cover on the coil, reconnect the battery and start 'er up!
Last edited by Chunkerz; 03-16-2013 at 11:02 PM. Reason: Spelling/grammar errors
03-16-2013, 07:33 PM
#4
Today I got
My Custom Title
Rennlist Member
My Custom Title
Rennlist Member
Step 27: fix your spelling errors! 
Well done, hopefully some day I will have a need for this guide.
Well done, hopefully some day I will have a need for this guide.
03-16-2013, 10:42 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Edit- never mind I found them. Stupid Google chrome not catching my bad spelling/grammar.
The flash from the camera really shows how disgusting my engine bay is....
Last edited by Chunkerz; 03-16-2013 at 11:00 PM.
Trending Topics
03-17-2013, 02:19 PM
#10
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Unfortunately I haven't been able to test it yet. After installing it my car would start then die unless I unplugged the DME temperature sensor. Although it ran, it ran like crap. I think I may have damaged the chip because I installed it backwards the first time around or I may have fried the DME with static electricity. I haven't solved the problem yet because I had to remove the head due to a stripped spark plug hole (you can see the head missing in the pics). Once my car is back together and my start/die problem is fixed I'll post a review.
06-17-2013, 06:12 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
As promised, here's the review:
The NA-Tune is very easy to install and made a huge improvement in the drivability of my car. The wiring harness is of very high quality and feels like it will last for years, as does the MAF housing. My only complaint about the MAF housing is there were some scratches on it, but it's no big deal. Installation of the 4* cam key can be a bit tricky if the cam bolt is stuck or strips, so make sure you have a good set of tools when you try to remove it. I'd recommend having two people when you try to remove it (one person to hold the wrench on the cam gear and another to loosen the bolt). After installation my car idles rock steady at about 1000 RPM, unlike stock where it would wonder between 900 and 1000 RPM. I'll post a how to with pictures on lowering the idle when I get around to it.
My car used to stumble, hesitate, and occasionally bog down a little bit when I tried to accelerate, but that is completely gone now. I get instant throttle response with no complaining from the engine. With the AFM, when I pushed in the clutch to stop at a light or something, the idle would dip down to 700ish RPM, shudder, then pick back up to 950RPM. With the NA- Tune the RPM's drop somewhat slowly when I push in the clutch, but the engine always stops at 1000 RPM with no dipping or shuddering.
The car picks up revs much easier/faster and feels like it has about twice as much power everywhere. I can get up slight slopes now without having to downshift and deal with the engine screaming at 3500 RPM. It also starts pulling like hell at about 3000 RPM, whereas with the AFM it wouldn't start pulling until 4000+ RPM. Even then it was still slow as hell and took forever to get up to speed. With the NA-Tune I can feel the G's when it starts pulling and reach 60mph in no time.
Everyone likes videos, so here they are:
In this video I go 0-60ish before having to slow down for a car:
In this one I'm going 25 or 30mph up to 80 before having to slow down for a light:
If you get the NA-Tune, be sure to get it with the 4* cam key and if it's legal in your area, delete the cat and install a chambered muffler from Sweet Thunder. They're made for muscle cars, but it made my car sound awesome and felt like it gave me a few more horses. They have different diameters/lengths and also offer it in aluminized steel (not recommended) or stainless steel. I'll see if I can get a video of 0-top speed sometime soon. These videos are with 8 month old gas topped off with about 1/4 of a tank of premium, so with fresh gas it may be a bit faster.
The NA-Tune is very easy to install and made a huge improvement in the drivability of my car. The wiring harness is of very high quality and feels like it will last for years, as does the MAF housing. My only complaint about the MAF housing is there were some scratches on it, but it's no big deal. Installation of the 4* cam key can be a bit tricky if the cam bolt is stuck or strips, so make sure you have a good set of tools when you try to remove it. I'd recommend having two people when you try to remove it (one person to hold the wrench on the cam gear and another to loosen the bolt). After installation my car idles rock steady at about 1000 RPM, unlike stock where it would wonder between 900 and 1000 RPM. I'll post a how to with pictures on lowering the idle when I get around to it.
My car used to stumble, hesitate, and occasionally bog down a little bit when I tried to accelerate, but that is completely gone now. I get instant throttle response with no complaining from the engine. With the AFM, when I pushed in the clutch to stop at a light or something, the idle would dip down to 700ish RPM, shudder, then pick back up to 950RPM. With the NA- Tune the RPM's drop somewhat slowly when I push in the clutch, but the engine always stops at 1000 RPM with no dipping or shuddering.
The car picks up revs much easier/faster and feels like it has about twice as much power everywhere. I can get up slight slopes now without having to downshift and deal with the engine screaming at 3500 RPM. It also starts pulling like hell at about 3000 RPM, whereas with the AFM it wouldn't start pulling until 4000+ RPM. Even then it was still slow as hell and took forever to get up to speed. With the NA-Tune I can feel the G's when it starts pulling and reach 60mph in no time.
Everyone likes videos, so here they are:
In this video I go 0-60ish before having to slow down for a car:
In this one I'm going 25 or 30mph up to 80 before having to slow down for a light:
If you get the NA-Tune, be sure to get it with the 4* cam key and if it's legal in your area, delete the cat and install a chambered muffler from Sweet Thunder. They're made for muscle cars, but it made my car sound awesome and felt like it gave me a few more horses. They have different diameters/lengths and also offer it in aluminized steel (not recommended) or stainless steel. I'll see if I can get a video of 0-top speed sometime soon. These videos are with 8 month old gas topped off with about 1/4 of a tank of premium, so with fresh gas it may be a bit faster.
Last edited by Chunkerz; 06-17-2013 at 06:31 PM.
