16valver

I was wondering if anyone would have some helpful documentation or diagrams to show different methods of going about this. I spent quite a while today searching around and came up with nothing.

I understand that there are two options: create a closed loop hose system or block things off all together.

The heater doesn't get used and the valve leaks very slowly (in my case above the oil cooler area) so its going bye bye.

I would prefer to block things off all together.

I am expecting to take the dash out and take care off all the stuff that is going on in there. Might as well try and get the core out while I'm in there.

Fara

My understanding of the heater core delete is that it is simpler to run a closed loop system than it is to block off the plates. I would, however, suggest installing a restrictor of some form into the line to reduce the flow somewhat.

My reasoning for this is that the heater core is used to help remove bubbles in the system when refilling with coolant and will add more flow to the back of the block than would be if it were blocked off.

16valver

The only reason I am slightly more in favor of the block of is because hoses can fail (usually at a bad time) and its one less thing that will leak (not to say block off plates won't leak, but there are a lot less moving parts at that point).

Keep the knowledge flowing! I'm still interested in any visuals people may have of this.

Van

On my race car I have a "marine cap" over the nipple on the water pump, and the port on the back of the head just has a flat metal plate bolted to it.

16valver

Van you're the man!

Something like this for the pump plug?
http://mohawkmammoths.com/wp-content...arine-plug.jpg

I need to make sure of where everything is on the S cars. Since the head is different etc. Just went out and looked at things, I think I've got the general idea. I plan to do an S2 manifold swap very soon, so I'll have everything off in order to get a clear view.

MAGK944

As Van said, block off plate at the rear, Linsey sells them and the gasket. You can fit a rubber cover at the wp or some people have threaded that port and fitted a bolt with sealant for added security.

At the core tubes extending into the engine bay, fit a long rubber pipe on one tube and blow out all the coolant. Saves some weight and delays corrosion should you wish to reverse. I would cap the ends with rubber caps also. Stop stuff getting in there.

Finally, you can remove that stupid coolant pipe above the manifold and discard forever the failure prone heater valve.

16valver

Ok excellent. I'll see what lindsey has to offer. I picked up a plug just now that should do the job. I have a new expansion tank that needs to go in anyway which means I get to drain some coolant!!!

MAGK944, I was hoping you'd see this; saw a few of your posts out there on this subject.

16valver

One problem that just surfaced is that it looks as though the plate for 8v engines wont fit the 16v heads. I did find the gasket, though. I'll probably have to improvise on this one.

MAGK944

The block off plate is just a flat piece of metal, 1/8th thick if I recall. Should cost just few bucks to get a machine shop to make one to match the gasket.

As to threading the water pump inlet, I've tried to search but cannot find my previous post. I think it's 7/8in 15/16in or thereabouts. Best to put some plasticine in the hole before you cut the threads and some thread sealant on the bolt, if you go that route.

Van

I used this plug: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-9-42720

Van

I would only tap the water pump if it's off the car. The danger of metal shavings getting in there is too great.

Fara

So apparently, I'm the only one concerned with coolant flow at the back of the block. Good to know

MAGK944

I'm no expert but I think the heater system is just a bypass from the main coolant flow, so I don't think it would affect the flow at the back of the block.

16valver

Ok I'll find a machine and get that done!

I think I'm going to go more towards Van's route. I agree that tapping something like that while its on the car could get me in trouble pretty quick

I just picked up an expander plug from a local baxter. If it doesn't fit I'll look into your solution. I'm assuming you simply ran the same band clamp that held on the original hose? I can't imagine that that one point will get too much pressure at any one time.

There may be truth in that, but as stated the heater flow essentially runs along a bypass to go to the core, not to mention that its a pretty sizable pipe. I would think blocking it would greatly increase the efficiency of the water pump, thus allowing much better circulation. I too am no expert but I would venture a guess that coolant runs along somewhat of a route through the head and block, then back out and to the radiator. I suppose if Van hasn't had issues with his track car (that he drives the **** out of) then I would tend not to worry.

Van

Yep - a regular hose clamp.


I don't think there's any truth in that... First of all, there is exactly zero flow going through that "circuit" of the coolant system when the heater valve is shut. Which, for most people, is most of the time.

Second, the way the cooling system works, the coolant goes from the impeller of the water pump - which is right against the block - through the block and around all of the cylinders. From this "water jacket" the coolant flows up and into the passages in the head - and the flow makes its way to the front of the head where there are 2 ports... 1 port is the big round thermostat housing looking part with a hose back to the radiator (although, remember, the thermostat is in the water pump), and the other port is back to the block and to the side of the water pump. This secondary port is how the water pump gets water to circulate through the engine *before* the thermostat opens up.

So, the heater core receives it coolant from the head port, and also returns it back to the water pump via the pipe above the exhaust manifold. This is how you can get quick heat on a cold day (ever notice that you get heat very quickly in a 944?). Only a small percentage of the system's coolant is in this loop right around the engine block and head - so it warms up fast - and the heater core taps off this. If the flow went the other way, you wouldn't get any heat in the cabin until the entire 2 gallons of coolant was warmed up.