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Fire Extinguisher Options

 
Old 10-10-2012, 02:18 PM
  #16  
Sam Minnitti
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Originally Posted by jpk View Post
I took a standard $20 dry chem from home depot (First Alert) and ordered a metal bracket for it instead of the plastic one that comes with it. (First Alert part # FEBRA2-6 for the bracket)
A bit of aluminum strap riveted to the bracket let me hang it from the 6mm bolt on the side of the console. The aluminum just slips up between the carpet and the side of the console. I put a couple of short self-tapping screws at the bottom of the bracket which really just go into the carpet to keep it level.

With the way this is oriented with the clamp, I can reach over from the drivers seat with my right hand, grab the extinguisher and release the latch with my thumb; all in one quick, smooth motion.
Is thre some sort of hook on the aluminum strap or did you drill a hole in it and run the 6mm bolt through it?
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Old 10-10-2012, 02:57 PM
  #17  
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Just a hole for the bolt. The aluminum is not really a strap; its aluminum bar stock, 1 1/2 " wide by 1/8" thick. I think I used a piece about 4-5 inches long or so.
The aluminum bar slips up between the internal console support bracket and the side piece of the console. The bolt (screw) goes through the console side , then the aluminum, then into the threaded insert in the steel bracket which is secured to the trans tunnel inside the console. I think I put a little bend in the aluminum bar to make it work, but it wasn't much effort to bolt this in at all.
The extra couple of screws were put in directly through the bracket and really just go into the carpet. It's enough to keep the extinguisher from pivoting and keeps the extinguisher level.
This has held up for a couple of years now and 10-12 DE days; I don't see any issues or problems with this install.
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Old 10-10-2012, 11:38 PM
  #18  
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Thanks John
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Old 10-11-2012, 09:46 PM
  #19  
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You can make them very easily out of flat bar - thats what i did;
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Old 08-30-2016, 06:15 PM
  #20  
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Well, four years later, and I finally got around to installing an extinguisher permanently. Was tired of it rolling around behind the seats. I ended up going with the Brey-Krause under-seat mount and quick release, along with a Halon extinguisher. I didn't like the brushed stainless of the mounting bar so used Eastwood's wrinkle finish black powder coat, which came out better than expected. Installing the mounting bar is fairly easy. Trick is to leave the rear bolts torqued in place and just remove the front two seat bolts so you can slip the mount under (might need to pry up a tad with a screwdriver). The mount does limit the seat travel a bit, so you can't get to the rear bolts once it is installed (hence the need to leave the rears tight when installing, since there is no way to tighten the rears once the bar is in -- ask me how I know...).
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Old 08-30-2016, 06:59 PM
  #21  
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Ditch, good move. Lose the hose clamps, they are not designed to hold things together in an impact and as someone has pointed out, will leave you with a weighty projectile at head-level in an incident. As you say, better safe than sorry... or brain injured. Cheers,
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Old 08-31-2016, 08:00 AM
  #22  
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Looks great Tom.
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Old 09-01-2016, 01:54 AM
  #23  
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Tom, shouldn't the release clamp go to the front? How well does it work between the seat and the extinguisher?
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Old 09-01-2016, 11:44 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by azbanks View Post
Tom, shouldn't the release clamp go to the front? How well does it work between the seat and the extinguisher?
I had it the other way at first, but this way seems to work better. When you depress the release clamp, you have to roll the extinguisher off the mount a bit to free it from the base. When I had it the other way, the seat was interfering with the dismount and I had to fumble with it more to get off. As turned around, I can grab it and roll it forward without any interference from the seat. Not really sure which way Brey-Krause had in mind as I've seen them mounted both ways, but either way I figured I'm better off having it the way I can release it faster. I'm all ears if there is something I'm missing though....
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Old 09-02-2016, 06:06 AM
  #25  
James Chimney
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I have this one too, a bit of a pain to install and bounces a bit while driving, but looks great.
Originally Posted by HICKS View Post
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Old 09-02-2016, 01:20 PM
  #26  
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I have relegated my HalGuard to garage duty because the trigger mechanism would rattle in the car. The safecraft one in my picture above is rattle-free in comparison, though it is a tad bit smaller in diameter, so I had to use some foam spacers to make it tight in the clamp -- you can see it in the picture is you look closely...
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Old 09-04-2016, 10:49 AM
  #27  
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Wimps...


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Old 09-04-2016, 11:03 AM
  #28  
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Please don't flame me (it's the coffee)...


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Old 09-04-2016, 02:49 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by curtisr View Post
Please don't flame me (it's the coffee)...


Talk about adding gas to the fire

Seriously a dry chemical extinguisher is terrible for use on something you would like to rebuild should you suffer a fire To smother a fire the dry chemical forms a crust to seal out air from the fire, what doesn't gets into everything as fine powder and is very corrosive. Been there, fixed that, but in my case it was a Cessna 172. Ground crewman standing by on engine start used one on an engine fire caused by a backfire thru an over primed carburetor (updraft). CO2 or Halon are the way to go. From what I was told 25 years ago Halon produced less thermal shock to sensitive aircraft instruments in the event of an electrical fire vs. CO2. I carried a small Halon extinguisher in my flight bag and had a larger one mounted under the pilot's seat in my Grumman. Thank God I never needed it in the cockpit or on the ground

Last edited by jhowell371; 09-04-2016 at 02:52 PM. Reason: grammar
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Old 09-05-2016, 08:42 PM
  #30  
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