Fire Extinguisher Options
10-10-2012, 02:18 PM
#16
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Westchester, NY
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I took a standard $20 dry chem from home depot (First Alert) and ordered a metal bracket for it instead of the plastic one that comes with it. (First Alert part # FEBRA2-6 for the bracket)
A bit of aluminum strap riveted to the bracket let me hang it from the 6mm bolt on the side of the console. The aluminum just slips up between the carpet and the side of the console. I put a couple of short self-tapping screws at the bottom of the bracket which really just go into the carpet to keep it level.
With the way this is oriented with the clamp, I can reach over from the drivers seat with my right hand, grab the extinguisher and release the latch with my thumb; all in one quick, smooth motion.
A bit of aluminum strap riveted to the bracket let me hang it from the 6mm bolt on the side of the console. The aluminum just slips up between the carpet and the side of the console. I put a couple of short self-tapping screws at the bottom of the bracket which really just go into the carpet to keep it level.
With the way this is oriented with the clamp, I can reach over from the drivers seat with my right hand, grab the extinguisher and release the latch with my thumb; all in one quick, smooth motion.
10-10-2012, 02:57 PM
#17
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Livonia, Michigan
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Just a hole for the bolt. The aluminum is not really a strap; its aluminum bar stock, 1 1/2 " wide by 1/8" thick. I think I used a piece about 4-5 inches long or so.
The aluminum bar slips up between the internal console support bracket and the side piece of the console. The bolt (screw) goes through the console side , then the aluminum, then into the threaded insert in the steel bracket which is secured to the trans tunnel inside the console. I think I put a little bend in the aluminum bar to make it work, but it wasn't much effort to bolt this in at all.
The extra couple of screws were put in directly through the bracket and really just go into the carpet. It's enough to keep the extinguisher from pivoting and keeps the extinguisher level.
This has held up for a couple of years now and 10-12 DE days; I don't see any issues or problems with this install.
The aluminum bar slips up between the internal console support bracket and the side piece of the console. The bolt (screw) goes through the console side , then the aluminum, then into the threaded insert in the steel bracket which is secured to the trans tunnel inside the console. I think I put a little bend in the aluminum bar to make it work, but it wasn't much effort to bolt this in at all.
The extra couple of screws were put in directly through the bracket and really just go into the carpet. It's enough to keep the extinguisher from pivoting and keeps the extinguisher level.
This has held up for a couple of years now and 10-12 DE days; I don't see any issues or problems with this install.
08-30-2016, 06:15 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Well, four years later, and I finally got around to installing an extinguisher permanently. Was tired of it rolling around behind the seats. I ended up going with the Brey-Krause under-seat mount and quick release, along with a Halon extinguisher. I didn't like the brushed stainless of the mounting bar so used Eastwood's wrinkle finish black powder coat, which came out better than expected. Installing the mounting bar is fairly easy. Trick is to leave the rear bolts torqued in place and just remove the front two seat bolts so you can slip the mount under (might need to pry up a tad with a screwdriver). The mount does limit the seat travel a bit, so you can't get to the rear bolts once it is installed (hence the need to leave the rears tight when installing, since there is no way to tighten the rears once the bar is in -- ask me how I know...).
Last edited by Tom M'Guinn; 08-30-2016 at 10:08 PM.
08-30-2016, 06:59 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
Ditch, good move. Lose the hose clamps, they are not designed to hold things together in an impact and as someone has pointed out, will leave you with a weighty projectile at head-level in an incident. As you say, better safe than sorry... or brain injured. Cheers,
09-01-2016, 11:44 AM
#24
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
09-02-2016, 06:06 AM
#25
I have this one too, a bit of a pain to install and bounces a bit while driving, but looks great.
Rennline with HalGuard. http://www.rennline.com/Safety/products/801/
09-02-2016, 01:20 PM
#26
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I have relegated my HalGuard to garage duty because the trigger mechanism would rattle in the car. The safecraft one in my picture above is rattle-free in comparison, though it is a tad bit smaller in diameter, so I had to use some foam spacers to make it tight in the clamp -- you can see it in the picture is you look closely...
09-04-2016, 02:49 PM
#29
Talk about adding gas to the fire
Seriously a dry chemical extinguisher is terrible for use on something you would like to rebuild should you suffer a fire
To smother a fire the dry chemical forms a crust to seal out air from the fire, what doesn't gets into everything as fine powder and is very corrosive. Been there, fixed that, but in my case it was a Cessna 172. Ground crewman standing by on engine start used one on an engine fire caused by a backfire thru an over primed carburetor (updraft). CO2 or Halon are the way to go. From what I was told 25 years ago Halon produced less thermal shock to sensitive aircraft instruments in the event of an electrical fire vs. CO2. I carried a small Halon extinguisher in my flight bag and had a larger one mounted under the pilot's seat in my Grumman. Thank God I never needed it in the cockpit or on the ground
Seriously a dry chemical extinguisher is terrible for use on something you would like to rebuild should you suffer a fire
To smother a fire the dry chemical forms a crust to seal out air from the fire, what doesn't gets into everything as fine powder and is very corrosive. Been there, fixed that, but in my case it was a Cessna 172. Ground crewman standing by on engine start used one on an engine fire caused by a backfire thru an over primed carburetor (updraft). CO2 or Halon are the way to go. From what I was told 25 years ago Halon produced less thermal shock to sensitive aircraft instruments in the event of an electrical fire vs. CO2. I carried a small Halon extinguisher in my flight bag and had a larger one mounted under the pilot's seat in my Grumman. Thank God I never needed it in the cockpit or on the ground
Last edited by jhowell371; 09-04-2016 at 02:52 PM. Reason: grammar
09-05-2016, 08:42 PM
#30
Freedom Enthusiast
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