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I think my head gasket just blew...

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Old 06-19-2012, 05:00 PM
  #16  
Will Feather
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Chaulk another up for heater valve or associated hoses.
Old 06-19-2012, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by catamount
Another vote for the heater control valve. It happened to me pretty much just like that. The good news, the back of the engine, firewall, etc will be extremely clean. So, you won't get dirty (much). The bad news is you'll probably be replacing the HCV, the cycle valve and there's a sensor too. That sensor (why can't I recall it's exact name, old age maybe?) as a Porsche part is expensive. But it's a stock Bosch part that is used on BMWs as well. The BMW part is much cheaper.
Ha! Yes will probably be a bit cleaner. What about the cycle valve and this other 'sensor'? Good to know it as a BMW part, but please clarify.

Originally Posted by divil
Well if they were replaced that recently you're probably fine with just changing the valve (assuming that turns out to be it)...I think there are just 2 hoses - at the top right in this diagram

I think the easiest way is going to be to pull the hoses and the valve out as a single assembly...that's how I plan on removing mine anyway. So then you can take a good look at the hoses and see if you think they're OK. The lower one connects to the firewall over on the passenger side behind the cam tower.
Exactly- I was just clicking through that on Paragon's site earlier. Great vendor, though I'm just a few miles from Zim's Autotechnik and will probably just go pick up the HCV from them for starters.

Will update shortly, folks- thank you.
Old 06-19-2012, 07:16 PM
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Another vote for the heater control valve. It happened to me pretty much just like that. The good news, the back of the engine, firewall, etc will be extremely clean. So, you won't get dirty (much). The bad news is you'll probably be replacing the HCV, the cycle valve and there's a sensor too. That sensor (why can't I recall it's exact name, old age maybe?) as a Porsche part is expensive. But it's a stock Bosch part that is used on BMWs as well. The BMW part is much cheaper.
Ha! Yes will probably be a bit cleaner. What about the cycle valve and this other 'sensor'? Good to know it as a BMW part, but please clarify.
Hmmm yes please elaborate on that - I wasn't planning on replacing my cycling valve due to this. Should I be?

Sentinelist, be very careful if you try to move the bracket with the sensor wires (speed and reference sensors) above the heater valve, or if you try to unplug those connectors...they can crumble away in your hands! Pics of this in the thread I linked to earlier.
Old 06-19-2012, 07:27 PM
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Saw that! Definitely will take my time around- appreciate your pointing this out.
Old 06-19-2012, 10:04 PM
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The Vacuum timed delay valve tends to go as does that speed reference sensor as described. That darn $20 heater control valve goes and takes a number of other much more expensive parts with it.

I'll keep looking for the BMW part number for the SR sensor.
Old 06-20-2012, 12:22 AM
  #21  
pops 83 944
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Originally Posted by catamount
The Vacuum timed delay valve tends to go as does that speed reference sensor as described. That darn $20 heater control valve goes and takes a number of other much more expensive parts with it.

I'll keep looking for the BMW part number for the SR sensor.
Here is the thread that I found when I was looking for my sensors, they worked wonderful and the cable isn't that much longer

https://rennlist.com/rennforums/showthread.php?t=609869
Old 06-22-2012, 02:43 AM
  #22  
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Culprit found. Culprit replaced.

Luckily - so far - it was the bottom heater hose connection that cracked and blew out, so I'm hoping most of the coolant didn't spray into the transmission bellhousing check hole. I saw a spot of green coolant around the hole, but looked perfectly dry inside. If it was the top end that had blown, I could be looking at a vastly different situation. I removed the top end hose myself, then it cracked inside. Vacuum operation was pretty wheezy too.

Only took about an hour to fish out the broken bits and attach the new. I assembled it whole after figuring out which hoses faced where, then stuck it into place carefully without taking the manifold off. It does take some fairly slim hands to get away with that for the firewall heater hose connection but it's very doable. I still have yet to refill the coolant and try it out, but I think I'm going back to Zims first to get a new clear reservoir so I can actually tell how much I'm running- still have the clouded up OE yellow crap can. Need at least a position sensor if not a reference sensor as well now too... I'm surprised hitting bumps in the road didn't make them fall apart. Connectors were practically like sand when I touched them. Duly noted on the BMW parts now after looking this up! Will hopefully get this finished in a few more days.

Old 06-22-2012, 10:55 AM
  #23  
CyCloNe!
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I hear the metal replacement is a better option since it won't break like that. Glad you found the issue and it was on the cheaper end
Old 06-22-2012, 11:02 AM
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nice!
Old 06-23-2012, 01:21 AM
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Originally Posted by CyCloNe!
I hear the metal replacement is a better option since it won't break like that. Glad you found the issue and it was on the cheaper end
No doubt. Is there a metal replacement option? For the clutch compromising factor alone, I'd be interested.
Old 06-23-2012, 01:36 AM
  #26  
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there is one, let me find the part number, it's usually available at most local autopart stores.
Old 06-23-2012, 01:47 AM
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this one works I've read here: Napa P/N 6601410
Old 06-23-2012, 11:10 AM
  #28  
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Chris, Before replacing you reservoir tank,do some searching on here. There was a thread a few years back on cleaning it with Folgers coffee. I haven't tried it but a few did and said it worked.
Fred
Old 06-23-2012, 11:23 AM
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Search this.
How to clean dirty coolant tank?
Old 06-26-2012, 12:21 PM
  #30  
odurandina
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