Butters944

Thanks much MAGK, figured you could answer my questions. So 300# rear with tortion delete would be a lil stiffer than stock and match my current 200# up front nicely? Did some researching, I don't think I've ever seen somebody do a torsion delete with less than 400#?

CyCloNe!

I'm thinking about this method but will probably delete the TB and run 550lb springs in the rear, I have 300 up front.

GTSilver944

Search for Van's post on calculating spring rate on torsion bars vs coilovers, quite a good explanation.

MAGK944

+1 Van has a lot more real world experience than I do. Plus what works out in theory doesn't always have the desired results in practice.

I'm running 200F/350R coilovers on one of my (street) cars and it works for me but I only have one comparison to go by, the rest is theory.

Butters944

Can't find vans post

RoyaleWithCheese

Has there been an update from robstahs suspension part 2 thread?

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...-part-2-a.html

I searched around but didn't see any details on how the torsion bar delete worked with those coils.

I'm planning on building some of these soon but if I could do a torsion bar delete I would much prefer that over a TB/coil combo. Aside from the custom spacer, it doesn't look like that would cost much more than the coil build in this thread.

admiralkhole

I shot you a PM about early coils, if you didn't get it could you please message me some info? Thanks!

Butters944

Wait, so the original posted guide will work on an early car won't it? Since you're modifying a strut that will fit, the whole idea can work on any year 944, right?

Also I'm gonna leave an earlier thread on this topic here for future reference.

https://rennlist.com/rennforums/showthread.php?t=695547

SpeedyC2

Great write, and thread!

I have a couple of questions, if you don't mind.

First: I currently have the Koni sports on my S2, with the adjustable-height struts up front (200-lb. springs) and sports shocks in the rear. It seemed one of the posts noted it wouldn't be a good idea to run the Koni's up front and the Bilsteins in the rear. Did I read that right? Different valving, I guess?

Second: I may be completely mis-understanding how the forces on these coilovers act, but it seems to me the force of the spring is acting on the bottom perch, which is attached to the threaded sleeve, which is all sitting on the snap ring. Do I have that right? And if I do, is there no worry about the snap ring failing? (There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of area there.)

Thanks for any/all information!

Butters944

I'm wondering the same^

mikey_audiogeek

Snap ring is standard practice for Bilstein coilovers. Nothing to worry about.

Cheers,
Mike

Butters944

Bump... Robstah can we get an update on your torsion delete setup?

NineFourFourNeophyte

hello,
i came across this write up and without any doubt it is great and shows our ability to innovate - great job!

now i'm going to spoil a good with something ridiculous ...

i'm looking to do this, but can't seem to understand or get around this as stated above ...

"I wish Bilstein would get their act together and make front struts for the later cars (87+.) ..." Justin S2

What do i do if i want bilsteins all around? what is the solution for the front struts?
since i don't have them physically, can bilstein front inserts they be put in another brand of struts or a hack similar to the koni coilover hacks?

any feedback is appreciated.

thanks.

Alpineace

for give me if I missed it, but if you have Konis on the rear can this still work?
Also, why dont they just put a lip on the top of the threaded body instead so it can just sit on top of the shock body? then just bond it on.

also If my car weighs 2300lbs, what would be a reasonable rate for the rear(with TB delete) if the fronts are 300?

admiralkhole

No, Konis won't work...the shock body is too big. You need 1 7/8" (1.875?) ID springs to fit, it gets tight near the upper mount...bilstein shocks are 36mm I believe, and I want to say konis are around 44. Using a lip on the thread sleeve would give you a very limited amount of adjustability because they aren't very long, plus it would require permanent removal of the dust cap. I have my threaded sleeve about an inch or so above the bottom while running 10" springs, works well and I have great adjustability.
As for spring rate on your setup, I would go with 400 on the rear without the tbs, I'm running 400 with torsion bars in my street car and it's pretty stiff, but hey, it's my fun car and not daily. Next weekend I will be deleting my tb's and running the 400's with my 300 in the front...until I go to 5 in the front, then I have a set of 600 for the rear. I have talked to others running coils all the way around and they like 100lbs more in the rear, seems to get rid of any understeer.