Jfrahm

It is easy to break stuff with the power of those turnbuckles. If you move them without loosening the pivot bolts and end bolts you can bend the turnbuckle or break mount points. Many people also overlook the reverse threads on one half of the turnbuckle and round off the bolts trying to loosen them.

0 - Spray everything with penetrating oil
1 - Figure out which side of the turnbuckle is reverse thread. Paint it red or something.
2 - Break loose the locking bolts on the turnbuckle - turn the bolt so it "climbs the ramp" of the threads towards loose, i.e. not the wrong way for LH thread.
3 - break loose the eyebolts on the ends of the turnbuckle
4 - Loosen the pivot bolts - the turnbuckle is powerful enough to bend itself or break the pivots off so this is important.
5 - Back the locking bolts off and turn the turnbuckle as needed to remove or adjust the belts.

To reassemble, do the reverse. Do not think you can leave the pivots loose, if you do that stuff will fall off eventually.

Lots of people do this wrong and end up with the AC compressor falling off later or breaking a turnbuckle, or breaking the mounts off the engine. The turnbuckle might not look like much but it is powerful enough to do this easily.

The alternator belt is run pretty tight. Specs are in the manuals.

-Joel.

szabon

Awesome. thank you for these tips. I am going to tackle this tonight and post with results

szabon

Ok, took them off, and no difference. Still has the sound. found this video http://youtu.be/Oaq4W85qUC8

The car sounds like this after it warms up. Also has a burnt rubber smell....What are my next steps?

BeerBurner

Are you comfortable with pulling the belt covers off and inspecting the timing and balance shaft belts? A whirring, along with that burning rubber, might indicate a belt rubbing against something and you might be able to find evidence of that by looking at it. I would also recommend not running the engine anymore unless absolutely necessary.

BB.

szabon

Can you point me to a good write up? I replaced the turbo, how hard could this be? haha

951Saga

The Texasblake site has the Factory Workshop Manuals.

On the Clark’s Garage site Garage Shop Manual page check under Balance Shafts and Camshaft for info.

The Arnnworx site has info, parts and tools.

Pore over this info, take your time and ask questions… good luck!

Tedro951

I'm a little late to the party, but let me get this straight:

You diagnosed, removed and reinstalled the turbo on a 951 yourself.

You diagnosed tons of things the PO or a shop hacked up.

You don't know what the accessory belts are.

Priceless....

szabon

lol. I learn things as they come....plus I learned all of my mechanic skills off of an old motorcycle motor. No belts...

Anyway, here is a vid of the timing belt. http://youtu.be/7M1DfKqPfVs I don't have a tensioning tool, but this feels loose to me. We also know my expertise with belts is limited (see post above), so I am not sure how to proceed. I would think if it were too loose then the whirring sound would go away with the engine getting hotter, no? Am I fudging my physics?

John_AZ

The first belt you touched is the "BB-Balance Belt"

By the way you pressed down and twisted the belt it should be OK if not a little too tight.

It is hard to tell by the camera angle, but the BB belt looks too close to the WP-water pump pulley. The BB tension roller is tightened CW to lower the belt as far as possible away/under the WP pulley.

The second belt under the roller you spun is the "TB-Timing Belt"
There is no way anyone could tell if the belt is correct or close by the video.

Here is a recent post that might help you.
https://rennlist.com/forums/9559938-post14.html

The belts will tighten as the engine heats up and expands about .01105628th of an inch (I have no idea on the measurement but the engine will expand.)
Bruce Arnn @ Arnnworx explains it here:
http://arnnworx.com/tensioningbelts.htm
Notice how far the BB is below the WP pulley in the picture.

Search for more informaton and get help.

John

szabon

Do you think the noise could be the bb being too far up? What should my next step be do you think?

szabon

How do I know if I need to replace a one of the actual sprocket things? They can make the noise too, right?

John_AZ

Unable to tell by the video what the noise is.

If the balance belt is too tight the engine actually will "whine" Very noticeable.

Retension the BB with the BB idle roller removed and turn the tension pulley CW--moving it below the WP pulley.

Instructions on Clarks and elsewhere.

The tension tool Krikit.
If you want to buy a cheap tension tool for the BB, get one.
It is difficult to get the right "method", "feel" for the tool ----practice a few hours until your finger and wrist is numb.
Until you get the same result consistently at the exact same spot on the belt.

NAPA had been selling the krikut ---KR1. They may have one on a dusty shelf.

Or have someone help.

GL
John

black944 turbo

From the sound it appears to be possibly a bad roller or the water pump itself. I am assuming the noise is the occasional scratching, squeezing noise. The whine is fairly normal and as previously stated the bb belt looks ok from the vid and t belt is hard to tell.

szabon

which roller would be bad, or how do I tell it is bad?

black944 turbo

Could be any of them. There is really not a good way to tell without pulling the belts and checking for smoothness etc... You could also try to use a mechanics stethescope (however you spell that) and try and pin point the roller. This is a place to start. Also as John stated if the balance belt is hitting the water pump (shouldn't be able to) than that could be the issue.