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Mini-project: tightening up shift linkage

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Old 06-05-2012, 06:52 PM
  #16  
acorad
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Thanks, it's out. There was like a quarter inch of weld to grind through...
Old 06-05-2012, 07:19 PM
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acorad
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Thanks, it's out. There was like a quarter inch of weld to grind through.
Old 06-05-2012, 10:26 PM
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black944 turbo
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My shifter has very little visable wear on it and neither does the rod, however I am still getting noticeable play. I just pulled mine apart for the first time and it is def. in the shifter area up front. Any suggestions on possibly saving what I have as visually they are not worn noticeably at all.
Old 06-06-2012, 08:37 PM
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acorad
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Thanks V2. The shifter is done, waiting on the ball joints for the trans linkage.
Old 06-06-2012, 08:53 PM
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V2Rocket
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Originally Posted by robstah
It's hard to tell how much wear the actual rod has on the inside. The previous owner of my car changed out the shifter, so there was little to no wear on that part, but I still had a decent bit of play. As soon as I changed to the thrust bearings, everything became clear and the rod had a lot more wear in it than what I originally thought.

I do find your lawn mower ball joints cute, V2.


I may buy a pair of heim joints to see if they are any tighter, and likely much more durable than these balljoints.
Old 06-06-2012, 09:16 PM
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black944 turbo
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Hey Rob,

Do your reccomend grinding out the orinal pin and using the bolt and nut as you did or trying to find a bronze bushing or simmilar to fit the standard pin?

As for my shifter its original unless Josh switched it as he bought the car with something like 30-40k miles.
Old 06-08-2012, 11:58 AM
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ZRDeuce
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FYI Part 1 is available as a kit from only944.com. Replaced my shifter last weekend, huge difference.
Old 06-08-2012, 02:02 PM
  #23  
V2Rocket
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You can get all the bearings needed from McMaster for less than $10 and about 30 seconds of grinding/assembly time
Old 06-08-2012, 04:12 PM
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ZRDeuce
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I didn't see your post Spence until after I had already purchased Kyle's kit. His kit includes a new shifter because he says "The bend of the OEM shifter is in the wrong place to allow the bearings to work without breaking", I don't know if there is any truth to that or not, but you might want to check that.

I will be doing your Part 2 myself. Thanks for posting all that info.

Last edited by ZRDeuce; 06-08-2012 at 05:04 PM.
Old 06-08-2012, 06:32 PM
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acorad
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Originally Posted by V2Rocket_aka944


I may buy a pair of heim joints to see if they are any tighter, and likely much more durable than these balljoints.
Well, I just sheared the stud off that screws into the trans on my OEM linkage, so I guess I'm committed to this little project! (Part 2)

The ball joints you recommended for Part 2 do look a little light-weight, although there isn't a whole lot of force on them I suppose.

Anyway, here are some M-C Heim joints and heavy duty ball joints: http://www.mcmaster.com/#ball-joint-rod-ends/=hw4qj3

I'm not sure some of the Heim's articulate enough, it looks like the application needs about 30 degrees or so.

I'm leaning toward one of these: 6275K54 or 8411K321 or 59935K73, although the last one may not articulate enough (28 degrees).

Actually, probably 8411K321 since it's self-lubricating.

What do you think?
Old 06-11-2012, 05:02 PM
  #26  
acorad
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Well, I decided on the M-C 2988K331 heims as they had enough deflection and seemed to be the most maintenance-free choice in the bunch.

I have seals/covers for the heims on order also.

Old 06-11-2012, 05:42 PM
  #27  
V2Rocket
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awesome!

but damn those are a little more expensive
Old 06-11-2012, 05:57 PM
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acorad
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Yeah, they are. My goal is to never have to mess with this linkage again!
Old 05-20-2013, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by acorad
Well, I decided on the M-C 2988K331 heims as they had enough deflection and seemed to be the most maintenance-free choice in the bunch.

I have seals/covers for the heims on order also.

Is that linkage replaced when you install a short shift kit?
Old 05-20-2013, 09:28 PM
  #30  
86 951 Driver
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bueller?


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