944 oil pick-up tube "collar"
 

My understanding is the collar you weld on to your pickup tube is supposed to be 1/2 inch tall; is that 1/2 inch from the base of the pickup tube--like where the domed screen's bottom is, or is it 1/2 inch past the top of the domed screen? and how big can, or should, you go for the most efficient pick up tube?

I ALSO NEED SUGGESTIONS ON OIL SYSTEM IMPROVEMENTS...

Ive rebuilt the motor due to an oil starvation problem, and i am taking as many preventitive measures as i can. I have built my own accusump system, purchased a crank scraper and replaced the broken "stock oil pan tray" (its black and plastic, bolts onto bottom of oil pan.) What else can be done,considering money is a real issue for me right now, to improve the system? Should the oil be ran a quart over, or not etc...

I KNOW THIS IS LONG, BUT IM FINISHING UP THE REBUILD AND TRYING TO COVER MY A**! ANY AND ALL HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!:thumbsup:

This was discussed recently. Click Me for more info

The collar should align with the base of the pickup tube. You may also want to add the Lindsey oil baffle.

Thank you so much, lots and lots of info, however i didnt see a picture of it and i always read picture books the best! do you by chance have a pic of this?

Ummm....yeah, I have pictures. The last one is the Lindsey oil pan baffle. In fact, the pickup tube collar came with the kit.

Don't overfill the oil. That can cause foaming, which can lead to starvation problems. I run mine a smidge above the full line and monitor between sessions at the track. There has been some suggestions that a crank scraper can impede the flow of oil back into the pan. I don't know. I don't run one.

Thanks, i actually made it like ur picture, but knicked the domed screen in the process... how mission critical is the screen?

Well, the screen is just to prevent large pieces being sucked up into the pump. That shouldn't happen unless something like a baffle screw comes loose or something like that.

I don't know what you mean by a nick. If you bent it, you can carefully pull it back into shape. It shouldn't be a big deal.

I wouldn't use the collar. All I see it as, is a restriction placed around the oil pickups inlet horn.
For the baffle, a gate hinge held to piece of aluminum isn't exactly liquid tight, so I don't see how its suppose to hold oil in a specific side of the oil pan.

But it's got electrolytes!

It's what engines crave!

if it was liquid tight, you wouldn't be able to do oil change. :P

How did you find the new washers that came with the crank scraper? I recently removed mine and I did not like the way they look after being in the engine. They seem way too soft to properly distribute the forces. I found my crank scraper washers to be dished and the nuts had dug into the soft material. The original washers are much thicker and hardened to distribute the forces properly and show no signs of the nuts digging in. I'm considering finding alternative hardened washers.

The concept is that it that when taking a high g turn, the door is suppose to be close, by the g-force and stop the oil from migrating to the other side of the oil pan. When not in the high g condition, the door rests partially open and allows oil flow in both directions.

the collar is supposed to force the sump to pick up oil from the lowest part of the pan, so it doesnt pull air if the oil were to be very low in a corner. The door is not supposed to be oil tight, it only keeps oil from sloshing in tight corners and moving too quickly away from the sump.

Why get fancy with the hinge and door? Just drill a few holes in the aluminum plate, to slow the slosh.

You don't really want to hold it on the side near the drain plug..

I welded mine in pretty good, just a small gap beneath the little door for oil. It might not do all that much but at least it feels good, waiting an extra couple of minutes for the oil to drain is fine with me.